Motion Offroad

Just hung up with them... Q: "Rumor has it you guys carry Comanche MJ bedsides, is that true?" A: "Who told you that? Nobody has those!" Q: "Do you guys just re-sell Omix-Ada parts?" A: "That is correct."

Based on the catalog on their website the part numbers are old Omix-Ada part numbers. So it looks like they are just selling the vast amount of parts Omix-Ada carries. I'll give them a call however to verify.

Supposedly no changes will take place; it's just changing ownership hands. Troy and Lisa have secretly had the Badlands for sale for a few years. Paragon's prices were more than Badlands; so lets just hope that Kyle & Stephanie don't jack the prices up. It does bring a good question to light however; how did Kyle and Stephanie afford to purchase it. Supposedly all their money was spent fighting the legal battle with Paragon and begged for financial help from anyone who was willing to give them money to save the park. Rumor has it selling price was well over 1mil. http://motionoffroad.wordpress.com/2008 ... ew-owners/

Well sell short arms, as well as drop brackets from 2 manufactures. Our 4.5" MJ kit uses short arms. So we're not stating our opinion based on those facts. As stated above, 6.5" in our opinion is considered an extreme lift on the XJ/MJ. We stated above why we think that the longarms are the better alternative over a shortarm setup, or even a shortarm w/drop bracket setup. As far as cost goes; price out a set of adjustable upper and lower control arms. For instance we'll just do a quality set of RE adjustables. UCA - $230 + LCA - $260 = $490. Now add a set of drop brackets to that; we'll go with the cheaper RC one's at $200. So now your at a total of $690. The RK longarm kit can be bought for $560. Even with JUST the short arms, I'd say spend the extra $70 to go to longarms... I'm not looking to open the can of worms on the short arm vs. longarm debate. However coming from someone who has spent a lot of time around the XJ/MJ and wheeled both quite a bit I'm always going to say it's a better option to go with longarms at 6.5" than shortarms. And that statement is based NOT on just someone who wheels there rig. Sure you can run short arms at 6.5" and I know several who do. However in our opinion it's not the "best" thing to be doing. As far as telling the OP what else is needed. I will offer this advice based on the vast amount of products we've used on our own rigs at this height. Tracbar - Your going to want an adjustable one, and your going to want one that's heavy duty. The 3 I would even start to look at are the Rubicon Express HD one (RE1660), the TNT, and the RK one. All 3 of these come with a heavy duty mount as well. I'd probably 1st off tell you to throw the RK one out the window simply based on the fact that it uses a krawler joint on the one end and they tend to go bad fairly quickly. As far as the TNT vs. the RE I'm going to say go with the RE. Reasoning is based on a few things. The RE comes painted (both tracbar and bracket), the TNT does not. Not a huge deal but the finish on the RE is nice and tends to hold up well. The biggest thing is that the RE bracket allows you to run the RE brace later down the road if you want to (we recommend it). The TNT bracket does not allow you to run the RE brace and last I talked with Bob @ TNT (about a week ago) they do not plan on making one available anytime in the near future as they have to many other "more important" things to do. Brake Lines - Get extended one's! At 6.5" you NEED them. Even if you don't think you do, you do! The brakelines are not something you want to "risk" tearing on the road or the trails. Just spend the money and get a good quality set of extended ones. Steering - I've already addressed it a bit before, but at 6.5" you really should consider doing something with your steering. A crossover setup is really recomded. Their are several on the market. Some are 100% bolt on (like ours) and others require you to ream your knuckle's out (JCR). Prices range vastly on steering setups. Tie Rod - I guess you could call this part of your steering. But with 6.5" your often running 33" or 35" tires. If you wheel at all your stock tierod will soon become a pretzel. Several options available once again. We like to pimp ours cause it's got the wrench flats on the ends thats nice for adjusting it. But you've got many other manufacture's make tierods for the XJ/MJ. Bumpstops - Most kits leave this important part out. Not sure if it's simply overlooked or the manufactures think they really are not that important. Bumpstops allow you to maintain control of where the upward travel of your suspension stops and prevents over compression and premature wear to your springs. In our opinion they are a very important part of your suspension setup. Coil Springs - You have many different options here. Different manufacture's offer different coil spring rates. Since your going with a SOA rear setup it's somewhat important to try to get as close to the same spring rate as your rear if you want your rig to perform well both on and off road. For instance you don't want to have a really flexy rear with your SOA and have a stiff front coil that does not flex well at all. Quick Disco's - Get some! Many different options on the market. They really depend on what you want to spend and what your looking for in a set. We just recommend you keep your front swaybar connected for any street use; especially at this height. Control Arms - We already talked about it above a little bit but I'll touch on them again for the fun of it. If you do go with short arms get a quality set of adjustables. The new thing on the market are the flex joint arms. RE makes a very nice set that they call the superflex arms. They have a rubber bushing at one end, and a flex joint at the other. They offer added flex and are a very well built product. As far as drop brackets go, both the RE and RC kits come with support braces. Neither setup (the support braces) will work on the MJ due to the MJ's different lower control arm mount. As stated above we recommend a longarm setup of some kind at this height. We've tried/used a lot of different products at 6.5" on our MJ and we've built our kit based on what products we've been the most happy with and work well together. We've got a lot of RR time in putting our kit together. So above by stating what we did is based on those facts. Sorry if we came off the wrong way. If you have any questions about what products work/don't work well together feel free to shoot us a PM, email, or give us a call. We're glad to help however we can.

Copy/Pasted from a previous post on here in regards to the 6.5" height. Longarms have nothing to do with what type of wheeling you do. Better flex is just a by-product of having them. At that height (6.5") your control arm angle's are just way to steep and the ride will suffer greatly. Additionally if you ever try to go over anything, your jeep will be pushing itself over the axle, not pushing the axle forward with it. Having your control arms at that angle (short-arms) at that height your putting more abuse on your uni-body and just asking for trouble down the road. Also at the height of 6.5" you need to address things like the steering. Flex out your stock steering at that height and it's going to bind. You'll have several issues with the steering at that height if you keep it stock. We've addressed that with our kit (include a cross-over setup). Our steering setup is 100% bolt on and can be installed in less than 30 minutes.

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ducts_id=4 We can build it to your specific needs, give us a call or email for more details. :cheers:

Older hinge: Newer hinge:

The hinges are different as well as the latch (catch) on the door post. So to swap them out you'd have to weld on new hinges as well as the catch.

FYI the support braces will not work on the MJ's.

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Just remember if your looking at shackles that XJ and MJ shackles from the factory are 2 different lengths. So an XJ shackle that is advertised to lift an XJ 1" will only lift a MJ aprox 1/4".

Due to a lot of requests and the such high popularity of our 6.5" kit, we've decided to put together a 3" and 4.5" kit as well. More info can be found here: http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=12_57

Good luck with the project. Thanks again for the order! :cheers:

The older (84-94) one's fit the MJ without issues. Depending on if you have the factory buckets or the factory bench will depend on how "perfect" they fit in. Either way, they work in both models without issues. Just make sure you get part number 3000x (x is the color code, should be 1, 2 or 3).

You have a PM.

RK has a 4-link kit pre-runner kit out as well that's just been approved by Jeepspeed to be ran on any XJ or MJ. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=63 I'm sure we could get you just the longarms if you asked nicely... :D

RK sells 3 versions of their tracbar for the XJ/MJ. 3" to 5.5" of lift 5.5" to 8" of lift 8+" of lift Did your vendor get you the correct one? Also, I would NOT drill a hole in your tracbar mount on the axle side. Your just asking for trouble if you do...

Check your PM's! :cheers:

242 is right at an inch longer. If you can wait till Monday I can probably set a 231 besides a 242 and show you the difference if wanted.

Just get one with metal end caps. The plastic one's tend to crack waaaayyy to easy.

Looks good! :cheers:

Towards the bottom of the page. http://www.motionoffroad.com/suspension.html I see that you have to make it a SOA, but what leaf springs do you use. Mike Going SOA with your stock leafs will give you the 6.5" of lift in the rear. Using your stock leafs also lets it flex very well. :brows:

Yes our SYE will work. It's made by TeraFlex (just a fyi). We can also get you a CV driveshaft to match if you need us to.

Longarms have nothing to do with what type of wheeling you do. Better flex is just a by-product of having them. At that height (6.5") your control arm angle's are just way to steep and the ride will suffer greatly. Additionally if you ever try to go over anything, your jeep will be pushing itself over the axle, not pushing the axle forward with it. Having your control arms at that angle (short-arms) at that height your putting more abuse on your uni-body and just asking for trouble down the road. You should never have to use a drop pitman arm. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar, you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences. Once again, it's not the fact that the cross-over steering is heavy duty; it's the fact that the angles at 6.5" with the steering suck. Flex out your stock steering at that height and it's going to bind. You'll have several issues with the steering at that height if you keep it stock. We've addressed that with our kit (include a cross-over setup). Our steering setup is 100% bolt on and can be installed in less than 30 minutes. We never said a word about our kit until it was brought up. Even than we kept quite until you made your post and said things like "If you bought the motion off road one you'll simply be wasting your money". I don't think we've done anything but give solid advice in this thread. It has nothing to do with us selling "a way to extream kit for a daily driver", it has everything with doing about giving advice and offering a quality kit on the market that addresses EVERYTHING needed with your lifting a MJ to the height of 6.5". The majority of suspension manufactures do not wheel MJ's themselves, nor do they offer a lot of MJ support. We've had the experience with them, we wheel them ourself, and we put together a kit that covers all the facets of what a quality lift kit should consist of at that height. I'm not going to get in a pissing match with you about what is "wrong" or "right". I'm just simply offering advice to help save the guy money down the road and to avoid problems with going to that height. If he goes with our kit than so be it, if he doesn't than no harm done; we're not going to cry about it...

We have several options for you. Give us a call or email us.