Motion Offroad

The '92 has an open-loop cooling system, where your '88 has a closed loop system. The heater control valve between the 2 models is different. The one you'd need looks like this;

A drive slug flange kit would permanently lock it. A lockout kit (as shown in the 2nd photo down) is what I believe your looking for; which is specific to that hub. I did cross-reference an aftermarket set (Warn) and it looks like at least the Warn brand works with all J-10, J-20, and IH 1/2 Ton Pickups & Travelalls. I know the J-10 and J20 hubs from the factory are interchangeable; but do not know if the IH factory one's would bolt on to your hub or not. The Warn one's are about $85/side a kit if you decided to wanted to go that route. I do have them sitting on the shelf... A drive slug flange kit you'd be looking at like $225 for a kit for both sides. As far as what other parts (used) would work I do not know if the IH parts would bolt upto the J-10/J-20 hubs or not. EDIT: The Warn Part number also shows they work with Chevy/Dodge/Ford. So I believe your assumption is correct that factory OEM parts should interchange.

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. 2. Remove the kick cover from the heater-A/C housing. 3. Pull out the lock on the blower motor resistor wire harness connector to unlock the connector latch. 4. Depress the latch on the blower motor resistor wire harness connector and unplug the connector from the resistor. 5. Remove the two screws that secure the resistor to the heater-A/C housing. 6. Remove the resistor from the heater-A/C housing. 7. Reverse the removal procedures to install.

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ts_id=1432

I agree and fully understand why it is the way it is. With that said though... I'd gladly take more visibility out of it and sacrifice a bit of roof pillar strength than not have any visibility and be more likely to have an accident because of it. Like I said it's personal preference and I just have a really hard time with the major blind spot upfront. They could of easily squared off the front windshield a bit more to give more visibility out of it (in my opinion).

Maybe it's just me but every time I drive a KJ I feel that the a-pillar is right in my face; thus blocking my view quite badly. I just feel like I can't see anything in it. -Adam

Rubber last longer, is quieter, and rides much better. Poly last longer, is quite noisy, and rides much harsher. Poly requires you to keep them lubed quite often to make them stay quite and not wear badly.

Yes you have an AMC20. The AMC20 from the MJ is a very desirable axle. You can ID your gear ratio by looking for the stamped code on the housing. D 2.73 Open DD 2.73 Trac-Lok B 3.31 Open BB 3.31 Trac-Lok A 3.54 Open AA 3.54 Trac-Lok H 3.73 Open HH 3.73 Trac-Lok C 4.10 Open CC 4.10 Trac-Lok Most likely your MJ has a "C" stamped on it (4.10 ratio); as the majority of the AMC20's found in the MJ have that ratio.

Pacesetter does not make a XJ/MJ 2.5L Header. Banks does not make a XJ/MJ 2.5L Header. 51316 (YJ/TJ) has clearance issues to the best of my knowledge. Borla does not make a XJ/MJ 2.5L Header. 17061 (YJ/TJ) has clearance issues with down pipe. Dynomax does not make a XJ/MJ 2.5L Header. You could use just the header portion of the 88741 kit, and than modify or make your own downpipe. To the best of my knowledge I do not know of a manufacture out their making "performance" 2.5L headers for the XJ or MJ. You may be able to use the header of one of the above kits and make your own downpipe though...

The RK 6.5" X-Factor (RKXJ65XF+LA) kit includes; * 2 long travel linear coil springs * 2 high misalignment/adjustable lower long arms made from 2.0" solid alloy steel * Long arm brackets made from 3/16" thick/laser cut steel * 1 adjustable front upper torque arm made from solid alloy steel * High misalignment/adjustable front track bar made from solid alloy steel * One front track bar relocation bracket made from 1/4" thick laser cut steel * 1 drop pitman arm * Full length add a leafs * Boomerang shackles (will work to get you a bit of extra lift in needed) * Billet aluminum lift blocks * Extended stainless steel brake lines * Front adjustable sway bar disconnects * Rear u-bolts * Hardware * Detailed instructions The parts in red will not work with your MJ. You will need to most likely SOA the rear to get it to match the front lift. You will get anywhere from 5-7" of lift going SOA in the rear. It will greatly depend on what leaf packs your MJ already has (2wd/4wd), the condition of the packs, and what perches you use. Our recommendation is typically to SOA the rear when trying to match a 6.5" front coil. You can than "fine-tune" it in the rear with an extended length shackle (often heavier duty anyways) or if the rear is higher than the front, throw in a .75" coil spacer. We include the RK longarm kits in several of our kits and have installed a lot of these upgrades on the MJ. If you have any specific questions about the RK longarm kit on the MJ's we're happy to try to help.

Just to clear up a few things... The pinion angle is built into the kit and requires no additional parts (shims) to get the pinion angle correct. We sell 2 kits (1 for the D35 and 1 for the D44). The kit "keys" into the factory mounts; so you can't mess up the pinion angle at all. We've set the pinion angle for each axle based on a 6" rear lift. We do not offer a kit for the AMC20 as that axle has the top sides of the factory perches boxed off; thus not allowing our kit to "key" into it correctly. It requires no "additional" bolts than a normal (welded on perch) SOA swap does. Additionally it allows you to run your factory lower shock mounts in their stock location; thus allowing you to run a longer travel shock and not requiring you to buy any additional shock mounts. It is no more parts than going with a traditional SOA setup (2 perches, 2 upper plates, and bolts). We've heard comments that it can "twist" or "move" under a load. This is not true as the kit "keys" into the factory mounts and there is absolutely no movement once the kit is bolted down. We have wheeled our MJ on 35 & 37" tires for over 4 years with this kit without a single issue. Yes we agree that a weld-on perch may be cheaper/easier for some; however we wanted to offer a 100% bolt-on solution for our lift kits. Not everyone has access to a welder, and for many of our customers they want an easy-bolt on solution for going SOA on the MJ's. With tons of these kits sold over the past 4 years we have to date NEVER received a call/email/complaint about the kit not meeting the expectations of our customers. I'd even venture to say that our bolt-on kit is STRONGER than any traditional weld-on SOA setup.

Here is where we cut ours.

Rock Krawler has the "beefiest" arms on the market. Lower arms are made of 2" SOLID STOCK Uppers arms are made of 1 5/8" SOLID STOCK No welded bungs; as the arms themselves are machined to accept the joints. I don't think you'll find something stronger anywhere....

Correct; The Spidertrax adapter's that you'd need will be 1-1/4" thick.

A 2008 Wrangler is a JK and they are a different bolt pattern than your MJ. So NO, they will not fit unless you do a set of wheel hub adapters to convert the bolt pattern.

We have them HERE. Don't currently have any on the shelf; but 1 set is due in within the next 7-10 days.

YJ got the TF904 behind the 4 bangers and the TF999 behind the I6. TJ/LJ got the 30RH behind the 4 bangers up to '02 and the 32RH behind the I6 up to '02. '03-'06 got the 42RLE regardless of motor.

It depends honestly. Are your kids still in a booster seat? With a kid in a car seat (2yrs) and our daughter just recently getting out of a booster; their wasn't much room (if any) for a 3rd kid back there in the center. It helps a lot now that she's out of the booster. 3 kids without boosters you should be fine; but with any of them in a booster it may be a little cramped. I'd say you have similar room in the XJ width wise as you do in your KJ. -Adam

You need the yoke Spicer #221379. This will allow you to run your factory driveshaft & u-joint.

We do as of a few years ago now. As someone who has lived in IN all their life it's not the easiest thing to remember to do.

Rubber - Flexes better, Rides Better, Much Quieter.

The last one we installed on an XJ came with the extension for the O2 sensor with the kit. Did yours come with the extra wire in the hardware pack? If we can be of any further help please give us a call at 260.224.6098 Ext. 202.

Your best bet is to convert to a trackbar that goes to a double sheer mount setup. It will eliminate any possibility of this happening than.

We are still pumping out MJ sliders for both LWB and SWB. :cheers:

Here is our MJ with 6.5" lift trimmed with TJ flares. Shown with a 35" tire in this picture but we have fit 37's without issues.