pingpong

I watched the build up on it, :drool: and was drooling the whole time :brows: I just love the way Jessie can spend money just to f---- it up like it wasn't nothing. I wish I had just the coilovers and bead locks from that build :nuts:

Purdy how much lift did you order?

They are shiney and new :brows: They are also adjustable for handling. Pete, How come you are not running Bayonet eliminators upfront :huh???: Makes it much easier to find a suitable lenght shock, plus IF you are lazy like me, you could have reused your rear shocks upfront for more travel :nanner:

the 1310 u-joint is weaker then say the 1350, but it's no real big deal. Do your self a favor and buy a flange. I have seen quite a few break on the trail. I have yet to break one, but I have carried a spare flange from day one as I seen a guy break one at Tellico and it ended his day of wheeling at 9 a.m.

I still think an aftermarket harness is the way to go, especially since you probrbaly won't need all the factory functions. Just my opinion though As for the shocks.. I couldn't tell you if they would work we need more specs like how much lift, and what the compressed and extended legth is of them.

The answer to the LCA mount is :deal: Torch, sawzall, plasma cutter, cut off wheel :nuts: :nanner: You have to do that on the Xj's as well. As for which kit to use. They all will need some mods to work on the MJ. You will also have to mod the front cab mount on the fram to clear certian LA kits. The only person I have seen that didn't was Pete, but he used ford parts :huh???: MAKE SURE YOU TALK TO A SALE'S REPRESENITVE BEFORE YOU BUT THE KIT YOU CHOOSE. Also ask them if their kit has been installed on a MJ before, if not... run the other way. I know TNT's kit has been installd on a MJ. I can also tell you so has Terra flexes *this is what I am running* and you can build a better one cheaper if you have the skills :brows: My whole point is research it, then research it some more, before you pay good money for parts that you don't know if wil work. BTW you can buy custom Alcan springs for around 400 plus shipping

I could have told you that it uses the same 1310 u-joint as the stock jeep. They also came with a 1350 joint as well

Pulling the bed is a major PITA, especially if you want to put it back on. If you never plan on using it again, I say pull it. There are like 8 bolts that auctually hold the bed in place, plus a ground wire under the drivers side light. Alo you will have to un-bolt the filler neck, gas tank, and e-brake cable holder. Then plan on using an engine lift or 4 strong friends to pull it off. As for the exhaust, you can buy a new downtube for 26 bucks, new el cheapo Cat for 60bucks, then weld a Glass pacck right to it 12 bucks, and buy a turn down for a couple of bucks and have a brand new exhaust for lil or nothing. BTW I have never bashed my down tube, and I wheel pretty hard over nice size rocks.

TNt customs makes a nice reasonably priced set of UBE's. Napa should be able to get the U-bolts for you, or any good 4x4 shop should be able to get what you need. Also new spring plates are not that expensive if you end up buying them as well. When we redid Pong, we used 5/8 u-bolts, and new 1/2" thick plates. Might be a lil over kill, but its stout.

I would change the t-case out for a NP231, or a flipped d300, since you have it all apart. Also I have found that it is relatively easy to pull the motor, trany and t-case out as one unit, if you have one of those fancy engine leveling things. I would check with painless wiring, and see if they offer a harness, and computer to do this swap. Might be pricey, but I am sure it would be easier then trying to hack to harnesses together

If you want, I can trade you a set of 5.5 5 lug hubs, for those 8 lug hubs :deal: I have a HP 44 out of a 1/2 ton that I could swap right in, and with the 8 lug 60 I have I would be almost ready to put my crap on some 38's after I add some chromo's Just let me know. BTW the hubs I have are brand new, never even had tires on them yet

I know it is cast, but I am not sure if it is iron or steel.

Soundslike the throttle cable might be hung up

I did at Paragon when I had no spare shaft abd ab hour to get outof the park :nuts:

Doior gasket, top of rear window, or you could be like pong and the rain gutter is slightly pulled from the top of the cab.

There are many tire clculators on the web, to figure out what tire and gear will work best for you. You have to take into account what kinda driving you do mostly, and whether or not you care about MPG, and if you ever plan on going to bigger tires. I was pleased with 4.10's and 33's with an auto. I was more pleased in my street MJ that had 3.73, and 30's with a 5spd. IMHO, you are better going with a lower gear (higher #) then wishing you would have gone lower. You always can add bigger tires, and normally they are cheaper then setting up gears twice

I live about 550 miles from Tellico :cry: The club I belong too is planning a trip there sometime this summer, and I will elt you know when if you are game. Be advised the guys I run with are serious about wheeling though, and parts breakage and flops are common my brother might could run with yall, XJ on 33's locked rear. (right now its about to undergo a 231 swap (blown 242 for the second time) and remanu. 4.0) but i think ill be stuck on the stock trails. lemme know. Some of the guys have a bone to pick with lower 2, and I have a bone to pick with Guardrail :brows: I will keep you all posted on the Tellico run. It should be some insane wheeling. I am predicting at least to flops, and maybe one complete roll :evil:

That would be my guess :dunno: Hey you could have been like me, and bought Chromo's, just to have them break :mad: Thats why I say loc-rites, or lincoln locker for d-30's cheap and easy to buy replacement parts for, and you don't have to reset up gears for them :smart: Sorry about your bad luck though. Whats going in its place a d-60 or a HP44

I can only think of 1 person I know that pulled a 3.73 8.8 out a pick a part. Might be a VA thing

Largely depends on the tranrmision you will be using. Auto 4.56's would be great, but with a manual I don't know. I run my rig with 4.10's and 35's on an auto, but I liked it better when I had the 33's on her

4.10's are what you wil find mostly in VA, or at least that is all myself and buddies have ben able to find

and if the frame is messed up, they make perfect trail beaters :cheers:

I say use expanded metal :brows: That way it drains itself :nanner:

I live about 550 miles from Tellico :cry: The club I belong too is planning a trip there sometime this summer, and I will elt you know when if you are game. Be advised the guys I run with are serious about wheeling though, and parts breakage and flops are common

Just let me know. BTW sorry I never replied to you, but anytime I am off, you can head down this way and I will do some welding for you. Just remember bring beer :cheers: