pingpong
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Everything posted by pingpong
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I was gong to suggest the same thing Eagle did. Try looking for a Grand Cherokee in the j-yard with the D44 and take its parts. Also there are lots of companies offereing disc brake conversions, for less then what it would cost you to repair your stock stuff. Try looking on pirate in the vendors section. I know I found a disc brake conversion for my rear D60 for 399, so I imagine a d44 should be around the same price or cheaper
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***Rules for the Comanche Club forums***
pingpong replied to Pete M's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have been known to tell ppl to use the search function, but that is only when the post concerning that has been covered a billion times, and the answer from the search would give more info then I care to remember. Good rules.. And I will try and obey ;) -
***Rules for the Comanche Club forums***
pingpong replied to Pete M's topic in Craigslist/eBay... i.e. Not Your Stuff
I have been known to tell ppl to use the search function, but that is only when the post concerning that has been covered a billion times, and the answer from the search would give more info then I care to remember. Good rules.. And I will try and obey ;) -
Go to a flor shifter from an xj. While you are at it also install an XJ e-brake. Lots easier
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its a lot of work to do the conversion.. to be honest with you, you would be better off finding an auto equipped rig
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Thats not a factory thing. 87 was the first yr for the I6 in the xj, and it was fuel injected
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I have a brand new Long bed tank in my garage I will be happy to sel someone ;) Also I have said it before.. for the right price some one can buy Pong :nanner:
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I think that came from the FSM
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Your A/C works :eek:
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Minydigger.... I see you finally found this site :D I see your post over on tidewaters board all the time. I might be of more assistance depending on what you need.
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WOW... I thought it was 4wd :roll: First thing first.. why are you converting this to an automatic.. this is a pretty hard swap in the terms of needing lots of parts, and understanding the factory wiring schemes. Personally I would keep the stick, but upgrade to a better tranny. When you do the 4x conversion that is when I would installl the lift since the front axle will be coming out anyways. As for the rear... it is no harder to swap in a 8.8 then it is to swap in a XJd44. as a matter of fact it i9s the same amount of work. The way I built my rig was started off with a Budget boost, then cut away enough sheetmetal to clear 33's :eek: Then I ran across a killer deal on a used RE DB setup. Ran that for a yr, but in that time I installed a SYE, front locker, changed 3 rear axles, and 2 front. Then I went Long arms :chillin: Then I went to a place called Crozet and almosted rolled several times, and decided to take my build another direction, and you see where my rig is at now. Future plans include another axle swap, and t-case upgrade, as well as changing my suspension again :roll: So it is all a learning process. Some ppl wouldn't spend the kinda monay I did on my rig, but It gets er done :brows:
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No type of locker/gears/bearings last long if that happens
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Your tires might look a lil big, but you will be able to flex your rig all the way
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Price for a D44 depends on demand in your area. anywhere from 200 to 400 is normal in my area. As for the 8.8 the came in explorers for many yrs. I have one and it is stout as all get out. The factory LSD really isn't that great, as mine failed on the second trip. If you get one with a LSD yo CAN NOT use a lunchbox locker in it. Your only choices are to lincoln lock it, or full locker, or replace to an open carrier and reset-up your gears. Another thing about the 8.8 is the carrier is externally shimmed so it is easier to set-up gears on it, but still not a job for someone with limited skills
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87 Front Axle Question (s).
pingpong replied to bigburly's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
its a lot of work to replace axle seals. Most of the time it is easier to buy another axle with the same gearing and good seals instead of replacing them -
The problem with the way it is done is the fact that the weld will be stronger then the host material. Also the heat form the welding COULD cause weakness in the host material. I don't know how this would hold up, but for the lil bit of money he saved, I don't think it was worth the risk in my opinion. I would have felt better if he had plated all sides of his control arms, and drilled and rosette welded it as well as seamed welded it. Remember the longer the patch material is, and the more welded surface the better the repair
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Be sure the spline count matches up with the t-case you plan on using. Personally its alot of work to swap an auto into a vehicle where one did not exist. I am not sure about the 2wd auto's but the controllers might be different. I don't know. I do know some one who had a complete aw4 and np242 set-up, but I am not sure if he stil has it though.
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To make the top mount, I would use 2x2 tubing , and notch the axle end, and use tubing at the top with a factory style bushing.
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Normallly with a lunch box locker (aussie or lockright, ezlocker) you won't notice it on the street, especially if you have the VD front axle. OX locker the only problem I know of with them is the cable working loose and not engagint the front axle. I know of one person who put an air cylinder on his oand used his OBA to auctuate it
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What are your plans for your rig, and how do you plan on wheeling it
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Finished: BB, Subs, Bucket Seats, Tires
pingpong replied to jftimbo's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Nice looking rig :agree: How about we put it on some trails and fix that :nanner: -
I wasn't going to touch that part. The factory Posi's leave a lot to be desired in my opinion. Thats why I run a lincoln locker. and it is unstopable, unless the speider gears fail :brows:
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The best way to remove the 36MM is with air tools. If you don't have access to them buy a Quality 1/2 or 3/4 breaker bar. Use lots of PB blaster, or liqiud wrench. makes life much easier. As for how to pull the front D/S. I had the same problem alll of you had. My solution was to use a 6pt 8MM that I had shortened. Then I took a grade8 3/8 bolt and gound it down to fit in the 1/4 inch drive and shortened it. Now I can put a long box wrench on that and give it hell. Heta will also work, but you stand a chance of messing up your front CV d/s, and ruining the front out put seal in the t-case
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q-tec and 4wd hardware have rimes that are inexpensive. I think you can get a set (4) of cragar soft 8's in black for around 120-140 shipped to your door. If you want a set of rock rashed and abused soft 8's just come by my house and pay for my tires to be dismounted and you could have mine :brows: I just acquired a set of 15" eaton beadlocks
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If he paid 350 a piece for those rims :roll: he got :banana: royaly Nice looking rig I say cut the sheetmetal BTW whats a Comanche R/T? I never knew they made that model :nuts:
