bigburly

Thank you very much fiatslug. My EGR diaphragm is kaput. I went through the tests and when it came to directly hooking the vacuum line to the EGR, it did nothing to the idle. I can push it in with my finger and affect the idle. Are these things really $166 ? NOTE: I have NO transducer. I only have the solenoid. was there an update? The solenoid has the vac line and the output line, the rubber fitting could accomadate 2 outputs, but the end one has been blocked off.

I took it out for another spin tonight. It seems to be definitely related to Exhaust Gas Temperature or Mixture. While going up a hill at lower speeds and gently pushing on the throttle to maintain speed, it started to work it's magic again.

I agree, look at your EGR. CW I picked up a transducer, nothing like the Chilton manual shows. IS the transducer what threads into the intake manifold? This looks similar, but not identical. OR is the transducer on the fender wall with a wiring harness attached? According to the manual a vacuum line runs DIRECTLY from the EGR to the Transducer. Mine goes to a little block of vacuum lines.

I have an 87 comanche, 4.0 5spd. Lately it has started to miss or sputter when I push the accelerator DOWN like in 3 and 4 when I want to run the speed up. It will just do nothing and start to act like I'm running out of fuel. I've owned it for just over a year. Over the last winter when it was about -10F I started it and it revved HIGH and I couldn't get the engine to settle down until I GUESSED which TB harness to unplug. It was the one on the right, TPS? I hadn't had any problems since then, (I plugged it back in again). This problem started off as, I would be pulling a hill and all of the sudden I would get a power surge. Not so much of a Miss, just like, "here's some extra horsey's for ya." Now it just about dies. I replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap last fall. Now I removed the catalytic converter and installed a 2.5" muffler instead. I just changed the fuel and air filter too. It seems to start as well as any other Jeep. It takes a while to crank, but if I tap the accel once it starts quicker. I've read on here that the CPS may cause this, but I wonder if the TPS could be at fault too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

I just bought a COMANCHE a few weeks ago, I always wanted a Jeep and I needed a truck. It needs some work. According to the chilton manual all 86-91 have a Dana 30 in the front end. I had to replace the Drivers side U-joint. 1. Is there a bearing on the spindle shaft between the differential bearings and the u-joint? I ordered the bearing and oil seal and they are both WAY to big around to be the right ones. I took off the cover and at the top of the housing it is stamped Dana 27 the gasket sealer clearly showed it. 2. Is the top ball joint stud supposed to move around (like my bottom one) or just up and down, like it does now? Any insight would be appreciated.