Geonovast

The Jeep Cowboy It was AMC's answer to the El Camino, however it never took off. They only made three of them, two of which had motors. One with the 258 and the other with a 360. The third was just a demo with a fiberglass body.

I was out at Jeepco's the other day and we were just kinda staring at the bed of my blue truck waiting for the paint on the tailgate lock assembly to dry, and I had a revelation. Mount the old XJ cargo racks inside the bed for bungie anchors. I lined it up, and without the little taper things on the ends, the racks fit perfectly on the inner bedsides. They're about an inch away from hitting the tailgate latch.

Yeah they do have the same guaranty. Gearwrench is a Sears brand. Says right on my box that they have a lifetime guaranty. And yeah, mine skip too. 6mm, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18. But 10 of them for $30 I couldn't pass up. And they failed at getting me a Sears card too. I yet to have one and I doubt I will. I'd get in trouble with it.

I had some time to kill in Madison today, so I decided I would stop by Sears and watch my money jump out of my pocket and into theirs. I was just browsing and saw a 10 piece Gearwrench metric ratcheting wrench set for $29.99 ($30 off). I looked around but couldn't find the matching SAE set. They did have matching 8 piece ones though, both on sale for $59.99. Identical wrenches. I looked all over trying to find a catch, as to why this odd 10 piece set was $30 cheaper than the smaller set. They weren't even returned. So..basically...WTF?

i don't remember that... Remember when you had it parked by my house idleing, when we were checking the power steering fluid? You had me shut it off, and instinctivly I put it back into gear after I did. I failed to mention that to you, and when you reached in a few minutes later to start it, I just happened to be standing in front of the left front tire. It rode up my shoe and scuffed up my shin a bit when you hit the starter.

The vacuum disconnect is a system they used in the older D30s. basically the passenger axle shaft is actually two pieces, and when you're not in 4wd, they're disconnected. Gives you slightly less rotating mass when driving in 2wd.

A huge @$$ gear puller might do it.

It is supposed to pop off by hand. They do get stuck sometimes. Get a small piece of wood and a hammer, and put the wood behind the rotor, and give it a good whack. Turn it, and go again. Keep doing that till it comes off. Do not hit the rotor directly, you'll damage it. That's what the wood's for. It IS 4wd right? 2wd ones have the bearing and rotor assembly all one piece.

Gotcha. I'd get the non-disco without ABS. But that's me.

Did you specifity where you wanted the measurement take? If you'd measured physical length of the shaft, and they cut it to measure U-joint center to U-joint center, that would probably make it about an inch longer than you wanted. You could always lift the truck more...

From what I understand the Chrystler computer is smarter than the Renix one.

Wait...so you don't have the truck you're converting yet?

Hmm...interesting. I actually ended up with a tad more slip than I did when it was 2wd. As long as they cut it to the length you told them to, they don't have to stand behind anything, because they did what they were supposed to do. If they measured and cut, you might be able to get away with them doing it again for free.

I didn't have the patience to watch the whole thing, but yeah that is pretty awesome. I can definitly see many advantages to having a non-cast block.

I kinda got run over by a Jeep once. Pat's XJ tried to kill me. Although it was kinda my fault...

Depends on the motor, tranny, and packages. Generally speaking, Jeeps did this. 4.0 + 5 speed = 3.07 4.0 + Auto = 3.55 2.5 + 5 speed = 4.10 2.5 + 4 speed = 3.55 2.5 + auto = 4.10 Not sure what they did with the 2.8, but I know 3.73 was also an option. Just look at the tag on the diff. If all it gives you is gear tooth numbers, take the ring number divided by the pinion number.

Pop the cluster out and pull that stupid bulb out. Your sanity will thank you. When it goes off is based on RPM, nothing else. That's why it goes off in 5th, and my old XJ used to throw it at me in reverse too. Apparently, the newer ones go off of a memory system, they're supposed to remember the last RPM you shifted at, and go off then the next time.

Very, very BASICALLY. Think of an inverted fan pushing hydraulic fluid against a fan inside of it, once it builds up enough pressure from spinning fast enough, it causes the internal fan to rotate, turning the transmission. This is what allows the transmission to shift, since they can be turning at different speeds, and usually are unless it's locked. Also why you can idle without the car moving. There's always a slight amount of pressure being put on, and that's why when you left off the brake in an auto it begins to move forward, while a clutch completely disengages the motor from the trans, and when you left off the brake on a level surface with a stick you don't go anywhere. www.howstuffworks.com has some decent pictures and a more detailed explanation.

The HO uses a different cam than the Renix motors. They even switched cams again in 96, I believe.

If they're actual MJ taillights, YES.

I would never weld a DD. You'll eat up tires like crazy.

You'll have to do measurements, and I would recommend getting your current rear one shortened.

Yes, the only thing you cannot use from the donor is the rear driveshaft. XJ shafts are way too short.

Not really. My red 91 has a transmission from an 86 XJ and the front axle is from a 94.

Is there some kind of solonoid in the converter itself? Could be that?