Geonovast

XJ shackles make it 4-5 :thumbsup:

572 :thumbsup:

That too, but don't fret about it, if you have a tape measure, vice grips, 13mm and 15 mm sockets, you're good to go. Aligning these trucks is very easy and only takes about 20 minutes.

You don't want the truck exactly level. The back is meant to be a tad higher, so it can levelish off when loaded down. The rake also helps with handling at high speeds. I lifted the front of my 2.5 with 4.0 coils, and I've noticed the steering is a bit sloppy on the highway, because the airflow is actually pushing up on the nose. Since the truck is completely stock, I strongly recommend leaving it the way it is.

You'd think with all that money into the suspension and tires they could afford some door panels...

Which transmission though? 5 speeds and automatics came with different axle gearing. If you're running 31s on 3.07s, you're definitly going to want to regear. Take a look through this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15641

My driver side bolt was stuck pretty good back going back in...I was afraid of busting the bolt...it's only about 1/2 way in now... Wait... you put the Torx bold back in??? WHY? :eek: Run down to the hardware store and get a new hex bolt! After the ordeal getting those stupid things out I will never, ever put one back in.

I suggest getting rid of those side steps... they're bad news if you wanna keep it with almost no rust. Otherwise nice lookin MJ there. :thumbsup:

Figures... musta missed that one somehow :doh:

I'm not a fan of the KJ, but that I could into. With a solid front axle, of course.

Idle Air Controller, it's what opens up the TB when it's idling. If it's gummed up, it won't work properly and the motor won't idle right.

Not a bad looking truck, considering what you paid for it. May I suggest putting the battery in it before replacing the ignition? :thumbsup: Or do you mean keylock?

Call me :nuts: but.. CEL? :dunno:

:thwak: I would cry if that actually happened to yours. It's just too beautiful...

Dear G-bus, why? :eek: I've only done that once, and it happend while driving... and wasn't really a fire... just smoldering wire cutting through vacuum hoses and lots of smoke...

Well then you could have either. On the left is the BA 10/5. Right is the AX-15.

If it is an HO head, it would have to be a later model one, my 91 HO has the temp sender there.

What, specifically, do you need to know?

If the the motor spinning faster always equaled out to worse mileage, then 3.07 would probably be the only gearing option, if even that low. Just because the motor is spinning faster it does not mean it's using more fuel. If it's dogging and spinning too slow, it will cause you to use more fuel. Again, none of us are telling you that you should regear so you can win races. I went from 205/75R15s to 235/75R15s on my 4.0 with 3.07, and definitly noticed a power difference.

What year is your truck? 87-mid 89 will have the Pukey BA 10/5, and mid 89-92 will have an AX-15. Provided it's the stock trans. Because the parts stores/catalogs usually don't know what they're talking about.

Hmm. I am baffled. :hmm:

I've heard they run better without the EGR, as for passing emissions, that I don't know. I know they did away with the EGR in 91, so it can't be that vital...

I wasn't aware of any aftermarket heads. I have heard that the newer heads (99+ I think?) didn't have it, everything ran off of the temp sender in the thermostat housing. The rebuilders may have not know what it was for and filled it in... I've seen crap like that from rebuilding companies. I wouldn't suggest drilling it out unless you're doing it with the head out of the vehicle, and it will be completely cleaned out before reinstallation. You don't want any metal shavings in your cooling system.

There has to be a spot for it, because that's where the sender for the light would be. Where are you looking? Should be on the back of the head on the driver's side. Is that where you're looking?

This is why I don't drive automatics.. :fs1: