Oddmodman

It does have a converter. I'll give it a shot today. I'm also having dad pick up a fuel filter; cheap enough to chance. I'll also have to see if dad has an analog voltmeter, cuz I know mine is digital. When a cat is bad is there any visual clue as to its status? Like water dripping, some particular color of smoke or anything? Thanks for your input guys, glad I have a place to start :thumbsup:

Hey guys this is on a '90 Cherokee 4.0 ax15. No not an MJ but has the same engine... Anyway, as the topic states, this engine starts bogging, though doesn't die, starting at 2300 rpm. It'll only get to about 2500 rpm max. It starts fine and runs very well, as long as it's under 2300 rpm. Once I do peg 2300 and this happens, as soon as I let off the pedal it runs just fine, doesn't skip or anything on its way back down the rpm range. Does it in neutral, and does it under load. I don't think it's the cps, as I pulled and cleaned it, and it revs up great til 2300; doesn't make sense to me that the cps would be that picky, though if you know better, please inform. Possible other culprits that I can think of are cat, tps, throttle body(?), fuel pump sock, fuel filter, injectors(?). What do you guys think?

Alright, thanks guys. Sorry for getting back so late. I called around to local locksmiths and was referred to a specific guy. He told me as long as I have the title he can make me a key if I bring in the ignition (tumbler?).

Is this the engine that was offered in the IHC Scouts under their diesel option back in the day?

Anyone ever do a . :MJ 1: . with an extended cab like the 90's Ford Rangers?

Hey guys, I lost the only key I have for my 1990 Sport 4x4 Cherokee :doh: . What do I do? If I take out the ignition can I take it to a locksmith and have him make a new one? I have a very similar key from my 1990 comanche for a reference. Or is the only solution to buy an ignition/key combo set from ebay? :help:

Ok guys thanks for the help. I was really hoping to sell this thing asap. Originally I bought it for 250 with just under 150k on it, for parts for my comanches. It ran, but poorly. I cleaned the CPS and it ran true, so I figured it was worth registering and tagging to sell it, despite the knock...then I saw this buildup. It seems to only be at the back of the motor. I don't see the buildup when I pull the oil cap. Bummer.

Hey guys, I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4x4, 4.0, 5spd that has a light knock. Its crankcase breather thingie was rotten so I got a new one and installed it, and when I did I noticed that inside at that point, there was a serious buildup of sludge. Looked like someone took some rubber and oil and blended them together and poured it in. How might I get rid of this? Pour seafoam in that hole? In the oil? Will it actually get high enough to clean that out? And last, even if it does get up in there and cleans it out, I'm seriously worried about it doing more damage to the engine than it's worth. And last last, after all this should I switch to 15w40 diesel oil to help that knock?

I found learning on snow is easiest because you don't tear things up when your wheels can slip a bit.

Hoo Rah!

Alright, glad that clears that up. :)

"Diesel conversions using the bullet proof OM 617 Mercedes 5 cylinder Diesel." So did they get it wrong, or did you misread?

Why is the engine so long?? I've seen OM 617 conversions...and they're not longer, so why is there so much fab work?

To me, by definition, an automatic is broke as soon as they make it. So much less reliable than a standard. So, if going for total reliability, I'd put a swap in my future. But that's me and I go to great lengths to get things exactly how I want.

That was my first thought. The filter's good. Thanks though. I'll take it for another short drive and see if it's even leaking any more. Like I said it seemed to stop after the first drive.

I just got an MJ moving after about 5 years of not running. Had to do an AX15 upgrade and tcase output upgrade, modify my xmember, replace cps, change wheels/tires, and do an oil change. Anyway, I'd had it started a couple times in the last couple weeks, but it hadn't been ready to move under its own power until yesterday. So when I moved it, I drove it down the street, turned around, came back, and parked in a different spot. It wasn't until I got back up to the road that I noticed drip drip drip spots going back up the street to where I pulled out, and where it had been parked was a decent sized oil slick. So I go back to my truck and stick my head underneath, and the area above/around the starter is coated in oil. Seemed to have been puking from somewhere. Anybody had this issue before? Old crusty truck that hadn't run in years and it spits oil upon first drive? Note: next time I fired and moved it, it didn't seem to leak. Perhaps a rms that popped back into place after a bit? :dunno:

Seconded! I can't do too clean. If I'd recoil at touching my p'up with a dirty or greasy hand, it's too clean! Uncomfortable. On the other hand, a little car or motorcycle done in Imperial Stormtrooper white/black...I'd do that!

I do believe the "yellow one" is the 4BT. In which case it weighs just over 200 lbs more than the 3.3. The 3.3 is not too bad at about 550 lbs. However at over 750 lbs, yes I'd say the 4BT would be a big disadvantage offroad. I think the 3.3'd be perfect, and according to one gentleman who did it in his Comanche (I can't for the life of me remember where I read about it), he was not only perfectly happy with it, but impressed as well.

Now I like what he did to the wheel wells, both front and back. I'd like to know where he got those or if he made them. Assuming they're fiberglass? I don't much appreciate it when sawzalls are taken to wheel wells and left that way.

Forget Slantmanche, Slantche sounds much better :yes:

Do autos have issues with their CPSs going out?

Nice project, I have a similar one in progress. As for an HO engine, I'd have no interest, if only due to the fact that the engine's torque peak was reset to be at the horsepower peak, or around 4k rpm. Personally I have no interest in top end power, since these aren't racecars. I'm much more into the low-down power. Just personal preference.

Don't forget that at that mileage you may simply be losing efficiency due to loss of compression.

Is it just me or does it seem like your front wheel sticks out farther than your rear wheel?

Not to hijack, just a comment on Autozone. We just got one in town here, and already have a Napa, O'reilly's, and a Carquest (my favorite, due to them always giving me a discount on every purchase). I needed brake fluid and decided to go to the new Autozone since I'd never been, saw the price for brake fluid, and promptly walked back out. If they're all like the one here, I can't imagine anyone buying anything from them.