Oddmodman

When I get my MJ to the point where it needs the finishing touches of paint, I want to do it in the red/snow camo style. White, black, grey, and red.

Exhaust a clogged cat?

Hot air induction reduces top end horsepower, it's true. But since I personally don't use top end hardly ever, the 10-15% mpg increase is worth it. Check this out: http://www.impulsengine.com/how/induction.shtml

Of course it's a stick lol. Personally, the only use I have for any automatic is as a boat anchor. Yes it revs good, and it'll rev past 3k under load as well. Sorry to hijack your thread Egm89, but I am curious what Cruiser's got to say :)

When I redid my MJ's floors, I used siding from an old dead washer. Or dryer. Don't remember. Anyhow, it seemed about the right thickness. Just a thought.

Well hey...if he's not interested in that shifter, I sure am. I have an ax15 set aside for my truck, but it didn't come with a shifter, and they're very hard to find 'round here.

Yeah that box looks like it needs some big work. But I don't think it's ruined beyond repair.

Along the same lines, I just bought a '90 cherokee sport for $250. It was cheap because at about 1800 or 2k rpms it'd start to bog down. What I ended up doing was taking the CPS and soaking it in kerosene for a night. Next day sprayed it off with electriclean, and reinstalled it. Took it for a test drive, and it exceeded 3k rpms without a hitch. Cool huh?

Haha. Don't you hate when you're thinking all technologically, wondering what malfunctioning sensor or ground could possibly be screwing with you, when in reality it's just a tiny physical adjustment? LOL. Nice.

Cold air increases your power at the expense of mpg. Warm or better, hot air, increases your mileage, and your torque. It causes the gasoline to mix better with the air, which allows a more efficient burn. When the air is cold, the gasoline condenses, causing a less efficient burn, though you get more horsepower.

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of this type of grill? http://www.ebay.com/itm/74-78-Jeep-aluminium-Rasor-grille-J10-J20-Cherokee-Wagoneer-75-76-77-/200905617566?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6e8709e&vxp=mtr Only this, the round headlight type. 1975 Cherokees seemed to have them as well.

Somebody put it out of MY misery...

Oh, auto or manual?

Not to throw another negative wrench into the equation, but these old electronics systems are notorious for shorts and weak contacts, causing all kinds of havoc. Look into Cruiser54's (previous poster) http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ for electrical cleaning instructions. Is it just a rebuilt block, or were all the vacuum hoses replaced at the same time? CPS is also a possible culprit.

Well you can start with regular oil changes. That's a given. Those 703s should increase your mileage and give a more complete, easier burn. A standard transmission will net you better mpg than an automatic if you drive it well, ie don't redline at every shift point, shift up whenever you can, etc. Supposedly your best mpg will come when you're cruising at your torque peak, so adjusting axle ratio and tires to match that peak at cruising speed would be good. I'm no expert. Just a couple things I've read about. Oh, you could do a diesel swap! Lol.

Well, honestly I don't have experience with this on Jeeps, but I fixed this issue on my '93 Chevy K1500 4.3 last month with a new set of plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. First I changed the plugs, and it got a tiny bit better. Then I changed the cap and rotor, and it got a tiny bit better. Still didn't quite fix the problem. Then I changed the wires and that fixed it all! So, just a thought. I'd check your plugs from damage, and if, like mine, they're black and rounded off, I'd atleast replace the plugs and wires.

Definitely need some weight in the bed. A 4500 lb load will easily 'wag the tail of the dog' as it were, even if Jeep rated their MJs at 5000 lbs towing capacity from the factory. Maybe the LWB can do more?

Eagle River, Alaska is at 3.92 gasoline and 4.30 or so diesel.

Sweet thanks! I didn't realize you could use both sets of arms. Right on. As for the seats, I prefer my bench anyway.

Don't quote me, but I believe it's mechanically injected, so no ecm. It's an '80s engine. As for the transmission and tcase, I'm sure you can mate something up. I think it'd just take fabricating a plate between the two, just like when you mate a trans to an engine that weren't meant to go together. Like the Suzuki Samurai upgrade where you take the bigger 1.6l and put it in with the stock trans. You just have to build a plate that fits them both. Atleast that's the theory. I've never done it.

Well alright, but torx bolts were a dumb idea, and they certainly didn't rust proof very well. Everybody's entitled to their own opinion I suppose :)

Interesting. I have not actually. I did not think of that. Unfortunately I have not driven my truck with a 4.0l yet. I'm currently mid-transition from 2.5 to 4.0.

I honestly know nothing about the ba10. I certainly didn't mean to start an argument. All I was saying was check if it WAS specific, as in the case of my ax15, because I would have ruined my tranny by using the correct weight but accidentally the wrong grade. Perhaps I should have been more specific when I brought up the ax15. I mentioned my case as a warning, not a statement that your tranny will fall apart if you buy GL-5. Just a cautionary tale. Also, my quote about MOPAR changing their recommended oil to synthetic 10w30 was in reference to the ax-15 specifically. When I said I'd only done the research for my ax15, I though it was implied that's the only tranny I was referring to. Apologies if it seemed like I was talking about the ba10. I included that tidbit about MOPAR and the ax15 because the title of the post didn't specify which transmission was going to be the topic of the post, and I supposed that people would click on it looking for the correct lube for their ax15 as well.

I don't know what kind of synchros it has. I was just cautioning him not to pour GL-5 in it without checking first.

Any parts that should be taken from one and not the other, or are all the guts and everything the same besides the body?