Oddmodman

What was so difficult about it? It looks pretty easy.

Huh. Good to know.

I don't have a number for you, but if I was to look at it as an interested customer, I would check fill and drain plugs for deformation and ask how many miles were on the setup. Factor it in!

I wouldn't clean anything with that much plastic with brake cleaner. Ever. It likes to eat plastic. Dad tried cleaning his face shield with it once. Now it's useless.

I decided I'm going to go the custom route and make the DIY Turnbuckle solution that's posted in the DIY section. Thanks for all the input though guys.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll look it up. 64 Cheyenne, I bought the comanche with a seized pugeot and an ax15 in the bed that the PO had pulled and never installed, so I just used what I had. Modified my trans crossmember and stuck it in. Now I just have this hurdle and it'll all be gravy. I'm selling the thing anyway.

Well I think the linkage is exactly the same. What I believe is different is the bracket that's screwed into the body, where the first pivot point of the linkage is located, seems to be too far forward. I could just make a custom linkage like here (http://comancheclub.com/topic/14149-transfer-case-linkage/) but I'd rather not take that time. Just hoping someone knows something I don't.

I upgraded from my pugeot to my aisin without issue, except now the transfer case linkage is out of place by an inch and a half or so (seems the entire bracket that's bolted to the body is too far forward)? Am I the only one with this problem, or have others dealt with it, and if so how?

Friends don't let friends drive fords my friend :rotfl2:. The Cummins 5.9 is by far the better motor. Personally, I would never ever ever in any circumstance buy an automatic vehicle and actually use it. I might buy it and sell the tranny...but that's besides the point. In this case (towing), with a manual, you'll get much better power and mpg since you won't have slippage like an auto, don't have to worry about torque lockup, and you have the gear's entire powerband at your disposal. Plus I believe the Dodges come with 6 speeds nowadays, very nice. I have a neighbor with one, never had issue, had a friend who chipped his and loved it, and my dad has an old one whose body is rotting around it but the engine is still as bulletproof as an anvil, though it uses a bit of oil. And yes if you live in a snowy latitude or plan on driving it into one, 4x4 is a must (dad's in 2x4 and getting unstuck in winter = not easy). Go Cummins :thumbsup:.

You're lucky for that much. Here in Alaska because of shipping, steel isn't worth hardly anything. I took 760 lbs to the yard and got $26, and it was close to 20 miles one way. I spent about half that just getting the load there and driving home.

Hahaha. Misunderstanding. I should have worded better. By saying "turn in the direction you want to go", I assumed the only direction you would want to go would be in the direction of the skid. So yes I agree with you about the steering, and also about FWD cars. Hate em, but I still have one lol.

I was addressing john92131's post at the top of this page. Now you've got me curious hornbrod. When you start going sideways down the road, immediately correcting steering isn't the first thing you do almost without thinking?

What does tranny have to do with rear end skid?! Turning your front to match the direction you want to go is of course the first step, and if you have an auto your only options are using brakes, which may or may not make things worse, and there will always be power to the wheels in an auto, which does not help, putting it in neutral, which is only a bit better, or you can "downshift" which like brakes can be better or worse. The issue with the downshift is you can't control it because you have no clutch. In a manual, de-clutching is the first step after steering correction, as it causes the rear end to match speeds with the front end, rather than passing it by as it would with power to the wheels, ie auto in gear. Further, dropping a gear and slowly letting the clutch out, allowing some clutch slippage, causes the rear wheels to slowly grab the road and slow down, which obviously pulls the rear end in line with the front end, and assuming you've already corrected steering, means you're now straight on the road again. So yes, you could do nothing besides turning your steering wheel, but if you know what you're doing, the transmission has everything to do with recovering from a skid. No offense to you sir, but I was somewhat offended by the question lol, hence my long reply.

Geonovast has the right idea!

Honestly I'm not sure. Personally I'd say there are too many bends to do a good job if you don't have a plate bender machine. Someone else might be able to help you more if you make a dedicated post.

If that's a serious question Geo, the answer is yes lol. I see no ads.

I know that driving a standard has quite literally saved my life about 4 times. Coming down a mountain in the winter once my brakes gave out and the way I survived was dropping a couple gears and slowly letting the clutch out. Some auto supporters would say that they can drop a couple gears in an auto too. True, but you only have 3 options usually, and 1 of them is too high to be an option, plus you don't have the clutch for additional control. Two times in the same winter it had rained and frozen and my rear end started swinging forward and I saved myself by dropping a gear with a bit of clutch play and I straightened right out. Can't do that with an auto, at least not to the extend I can. Alright, I'm done.

You don't have to do any dumb calculations and mods for torque lockup or whatever; a standard transfers direct power.

Manual transmissions are physically smaller, no belly pan to worry about, no external cooling, flushing fluid doesn't potentially kill it, cheaper and easier to rebuild and they almost always go much further than an auto till a rebuild, full control of the vehicle, simply more fun, clutches are easy and fairly cheap to replace, depending on how you drive you can potentially get a few mpgs better than an auto, you can do a couple of exclusive mods that autos can't, like doubling transmissions, you can use a gear's full range as opposed to an auto simply shifting down for more power. Hands down Manual transmission, no question, no deviation. As for auto's having a "not having to worry about it" feature, to me it's exactly opposite. Just the fact that it is an auto makes me worry about it. Did I mention manual transmissions are simply more cool than an auto vehicle? Just the fact that I drive a standard and can say so is a reason for standard over auto.

I think I used even less than that. Dad was very explicit about that part. Thanks :)

I didn't think about the durability. I'd have to check into that. Anyway, just a thought.

I didn't know there was actually a devoted gasket scraper out there. Huh. Google! On a sidenote, I got the halves put together yesterday and realized I forgot to put the magnet inside. %$#@ :grrrr: , had to crack it open AGAIN. Now it's all nice and together though :clapping:. Now I just have to find an absent slave hose thingie. Ugh.

Haha, I had only the barest idea of what I was doing. I know how to weld, but I'd never replaced sheet metal or made a template. I just started cutting. For the welding there's always Youtube, the rest is just fly by wire. Try it!

Everybody needs to check this out. If it's real and it works, I'll use this stuff frickin everywhere, including my cab floors and bench seat, windshield and all windows. http://junkee.com/someone-invented-magic-and-it-is-freaking-us-out/14880

I love the idea of those older Eagles. I'd like to get a hold of the small 3 door coupe and do what you're doing to it, with the exception of a gas motor. Diesel all the way.