Oddmodman

Alright, so I'm stealing your thread for a sec. I obtained a '99 Chevy Metro that was supposedly rebuilt, but the owner couldn't get it started. It turned out to simply be the timing, and since the motor is non-interference, it was fine. What I am concerned about though is that when I did get it fired, it was 'rolling coal' like a diesel, except it was white. Naturally, I smelled it, figuring it had to be a head gasket, but it didn't really smell sweet, perhaps just a tad. I let it idle for about 5 mins and it kept putting out this smoke/steam stuff. Is that all it could be, stuff leftover in the exhaust? Did you smell your exhaust?

That was my thought as well...

Just a disclaimer, I haven't read the whole post, but would an np242 help or hinder towing? I'm referring to being able to use 'full-time' 4x4.

I'm not quite at the level that you guys are, but I feel yah. I've got two Chevy Metros, just got them both running, but they both need head gaskets. Two MJs, just need to tidy one up and try to sell, the other is still at 4.0 conversion and has been for the last year. Just fixed the XJ and am trying to sell but not getting any bites :wall: . Have a Chevy truck that's been sold to someone since Thanksgiving, just waiting for them to make enough money. I've got a Geo Storm that I think has burnt valves, and so will need the head removed, inspected, HG etc. Got a '65 Volvo P1800 that needs a complete teardown and rebuild from tires on up; though in the end only the body will be Volvo. (Lots of ...changes... planned for it). I have a Suzuki Samurai and its brother the Sidekick, whose engine is going in the Samurai. Plus I have Toyota axles to put under it. I have a military '42 Chevy 1 1/2 ton Dad traded me, it's in Idaho if there's even anything left of it. Last but not least I have 3 motorcycles, all not running reliably, and two aren't legal to boot. Honestly, if I hadn't quit my job and stayed jobless I don't think I'd ever get any of it done. I've stayed jobless 'cuz my personal goal this summer is to get rid of all but 3 vehicles and the motorcycles; that way I can take on only one project at a time. On the other hand, atleast I'm not Dad; he's got around 40 vehicles, and definitely no time for them, though he's got some super cool stuff. I'll make a short list of his stuff just for fun. He's got two 60s IHC Scouts and a two 60s Travelalls, a '73 Volvo P1800ES (wagon version of my Volvo), three WWII Internationals (one's a big flatbed, the other two are trucks), couple of 60s Macks we're trying to sell, a '69 W500, and that's just the notable stuff. He has many more vehicles.

Wow that's probably the sweetest Comanche I've ever seen. I always thought portals made so much more sense than regular straight axles.

Ok yeah that'd work just fine. Thanks.

Fantastic! Good job mate. Let us know what you're going to end up doing to 'er.

Well what I'd like to do is drop the pan, take a look, then see about ordering a new one or a rebuild kit is correspondence with what I find. Though there'll probably be a couple weeks between dropping the pan and putting it back together.

Would it hurt anything to drop the pan and remove the pump and leave the belly open for a while? Just so I can get a handle on what I'm getting in to. Would that engender rust in there, or would it be okay?

Well, this is all in reference to a 1987 MJ that I picked up for 300 bucks. It had sat for 4 years without anything being done to it. I bought it, drug it home, and started it. Everything worked surprisingly, but there was a huge oil leak from the passenger side of the engine. Still don't know where it was from. But anyhow, one time my oil pressure dropped to nothing on the gauge, and the spraying oil leak ceased. So I'm pretty sure. But anyway, if anyone has a definitive test for me to perform, I'm all for it. I am pretty sure the pump went out though. Like I said it had sat for about 4 years too. And how much should an oil pump cost anyway? I was imagining $50, but my local Carquest, cheapest around, quoted me $116, which blew me out of the water. Rockauto has one for $45 though. I don't imagine I really need a new pickup line anyway. Thoughts?

Wow I didn't realize It was so intense. Figured it was just a few bolt out, new pump, few bolts in. Thanks. Now can anybody tell me how a pump would ever fail? - Still having never seen one I'm just imagining direct contact gears and mechanicals; what's there to fail about that?

I'm just curious, why the 12v Cummins specifically? General ease of the swap?

Alright, thanks for that. However, that brings 2 more questions to mind. Is there any way to mess things up by turning any of those gears while the pump is out? And the pump should be filled with oil when it is put up correct? Primed I believe is the term.

Oh yeah, I'm getting in there cuz the oil pump and the RMS need replacing. And thanks for the pcv info.

The oil pump went out on my MJ, and I'd like to know how difficult is it to replace, and just for informational purposes, what runs the oil pump. What turns it? (I've never been into an engine's underbelly before)

I personally wouldn't want an HO in a long bed work truck, I prefer the low-set max-torque of the Renix 4.0s.

I suppose I should just find out how much one costs. I'm just cheap is all; hence the question.

Do I need to buy a dedicated gasket if I'm going to be dropping the belly pan, or can I RTV it?

Yeah...I would only touch that for 600 because of all the extra parts and it's a long bed, and the fact that I know I could fix everything...but I wouldn't want to. Sorry bud, that friend isn't so much a friend. Here's a test though: hop in the bed and jump up and down. If rust-piles drop, definitely no. If you're willing to go to all the money and effort to restore it though, good on yah and good luck.

Need. More.

Nice. Honestly guys, thanks for thr info. I feel better now about swapping one in. It just seems like most jeepers look at the ax5 almost the same as having herpes. Naw man, ba10 = Herpes. I had a 2.5 and ax4 for a while, and was contemplating swapping in the ax5 if I could find one. What was funny though was when I looked online comparing the two, the 5spd got worse mpg lol! So I got curious and started looking up why. Apparently tbi 2.5 doesn't have enough umph to fill out OD? But perhaps mpfi makes up for that.

About the same exact thing happened when I was swapping from ba10 to ax15. Fell off the jack into the dirt, wouldn't balance right, bad angle, so I got pissed and benched it up and into place, luckily it slid in quickly without binding, and I used my legs to hold it up while I got all the bolts started. To clarify, the tcase was not attached when I did that, and it was easier installing right after I put the tranny up since it was still at an angle. <<< Made installation of the tcase sooo much easier.

Aren't you supposed to use Mustang 5.0 injectors or something?

Dad gave me a '42 Chevy 1 1/2 ton. It's in Idaho. I can't wait to get it and do this to it. 'Course, it'll be getting a different powerplant at the very least.

Well, Idk how you guys get your electricity produced, but here in Anchorage, Alaska our plant runs off of gas. So, you burn gas to make electricity to charge your car so you don't burn gas... Judging from a chart compiled in 2009, between natural gas and petroleum, 25% of the USA's electricity is gas powered. So unless that's changed significantly, these cars are pretty pointless for 1 in 4 of us.