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Oddmodman

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  1. Oddmodman
    Cool. Can anyone tell me the difference between the two Grand Cherokee designations?
  2. Oddmodman
    Eagle you are correct. I only mentioned the ax15 and what lube ISN'T supposed to go in it, because chances are high that it's the same case with the ba10, in that it probably has soft yellow-metal synchros etc that aren't supposed to have GL-5 used on them.
  3. Oddmodman
    I didn't even remember that there were two designations of Grand Cherokees. What's the difference? Also, that basically sounds like the entire front steering assembly eh? Lol.
  4. Oddmodman
    I've searched through all the DIY pages for upgrades from Grand Cherokees. I only found two, upper control arms and the dual brake booster, and I thought there were more. Does anyone have a list of what parts to strip from a WJ if you get ahold of a parts vehicle? Or perhaps links atleast?
  5. Oddmodman
    I might be wrong since I've only done the research for tranny lube for my ax15, but if they're the same, with the brass and bronze innards, it NEEDS TO BE GL-3. GL-5 will slowly ruin it otherwise, if you use it. Please, if I'm imparting the wrong info, someone correct me. Also, for anyone interested, MOPAR has changed the recommended tranny lube from 75w90 gl-3 to synthetic 10w30 engine oil. I do not know if they recommend a certain brand or not. I plan on using Walmart's Super Tech synthetic brand myself on this transmission I'm working on.
  6. Oddmodman
    There we go, some good input. Thanks. If I ever get around to doing a diesel swap and tearing the entire truck down...again, I think I might just look into doing this. I hate the idea of hundreds of extra lbs on one side of a truck. Plus there's the fact that the driver's side cab unibody area weakens the fastest out of any other area on the truck.
  7. Oddmodman
    I realize this is an old topic, but for people looking for help in the present, apparently you can use a 3/8 12pt socket on them. I'm going to replace mine with studs tomorrow.
  8. Oddmodman
    I figured that as well, I was just curious about opinions.
  9. Oddmodman
    Oh come now, any serious thoughts?
  10. Oddmodman
    I tried it with the CPS. I think it's safe. I'm going to implement it.
  11. Oddmodman
    One swap I'm also contemplating is VW's D24T 2.4 (or 2.8? I don't remember). It's a turbo I6, and comes in at about 470lbs with all the accessories, and can be built to exceed 5k rpms, at over 200hp. I already have one, which is why I'm thinking about it.
  12. Oddmodman
    Anybody ever notice how all the weight on a Comanche is on the driver's side? How the driver, the fuel tank, the drop axle, the front DS, and the Tcase are all on the driver's side? This is all theoretical, but for performance, and ease on our trucks, you could have the gas tank and the exhaust trade places (including moving the tank filler to the other side of the bed), which would distribute weight better, and if you have enough of a lift to omit the over-axle-bend, would enable you to have an exhaust system that was quite straight except for the exhaust drop-bend. Then I believe you'd have room to have either passenger OR driver's side drop axle and corresponding Tcase. Have I gone overboard? Does this make sense to anyone else? (Keep in mind I haven't taken any measurements, this is all theoretical).
  13. Oddmodman
    Well, I haven't installed it yet, so I can take a few pics before I install it. Had I more time I would have done it more professionally, make it look like the ax15 xmember, but Dad had to take the welder back with him. I can give you a quick rundown though before I take pics today. As you know, the ba10 xmember doesn't have the drop-middle. So I measured the dimensions of the drop from an ax15 crossmember, since I had one (didn't simply use that one because it's for another project), and I used a cutting wheel to cut down to the flare level. After I had cut out the rectangular hole, I found that the xmember is made like our truck's unibodies are; that is to say, made up of multiple plates pressed together, in this case two-stacked. I ended up with two plates, one fitting inside the other, with approximately an inch hanging down on either side (picture the outline of a square, 4 sides, one square fitting in the other, and then remove the bottom lines of both squares, so now you simply have a rise within a rise). I cut off the one inch sides so that I had two flat rectangular plates. They were the same width, but the outer edges, where they met the flared out sides of the xmember, were about 1/8in off from each other (picture the bottom two levels of a pyramid from a sideways view). So what I did was weld the uniform sides of these two pieces together, making sure the other two sides retained their 1/8in differences. Then I put the new plate back in the hole, with the widest piece on the bottom, making the top piece level with the flare of the xmember. This gave me a level drop, just like the ax15 has, with two 1/8in valleys on either side of the plate. This I simply filled in with weld, which I ground down to keep level. It turned out to match the drop and width of the ax15 xmember, omitting only the sloping sides the ax15's has (where that slope should be I simply left open). It holds my weight of 250lbs, even with a bit of bouncing, and the wings that attach to either side of the Comanche I believe will support the middle without issue, even with the two openings I left. Had I more time I would have made the sloping sides the ax15's has. Make sense? It's a bit long winded and confusing even to me, but I'll get a pic up sooner rather than later.
  14. Oddmodman
    Unfortunately no, however I simple modified the ba10's crossmember with some cutting and welding. It fits the tranny, I checked, and I believe it will be strong enough to support the tranny once it's installed.
  15. Oddmodman
    Ah, that's what I was curious about, the Man. date vs. Model Year. The truck that the tranny is being installed into is an '87, and originally had a ba10. The tranny itself, if I'm correct about interpreting the date, has a manufacture date of 1990. I've fitted it up and it seems to fit the pilot that the ba10 had, so I'm fairly confident I'm correct about the man. date of the tranny.
  16. Oddmodman
    Ah, Cruiser54, thank you. I actually went over this yesterday funnily enough. I have two questions for you. Don't mean to seem like a dunce, but what exactly does the Valve Cover Mod do? That hole in the side. Breathing? Also, what do you get out of the CPS Advance Mod? Does it actually advance your timing, delivering more power?
  17. Oddmodman
    I don't know the date of the truck's manufacture. This transmission I had gotten ahold of after it was stripped out of something, I don't even know if it came out of a Comanche or a Cherokee, let alone the year. Geonovast, thank you for that, I did need to know that actually. What I was really wondering though was in general, if you have a trans manufactured in a year, say 1988 this time for example, would you want a 1988 pilot, or a 1989, since it was likely put into next year's truck? According to Cruiser54, I'd guess my tranny was built June of 1990? 006? 0/06?
  18. Oddmodman
    Hi guys. I just bought a 1990 cherokee, ax15, np231. It has a very very slight knock, and when it reaches about 2100 rpm or so it starts bogging down. I didn't buy it for its engine anyhow, but I'm curious if people have encountered the same problem. Perhaps CPS or fuel filter? Those'd be my guesses.
  19. Oddmodman
    Hi guys, I need help finding out the manufacture date of my transmission. In my service manual it says that the first 3 numbers of the ID tag on an ax15 indicate the date. It gave an example, saying that 902 meant it was made in February of '89. Wtf? How does that make sense...unless it counts as a '90, hence 902 is February of 1990? My numbers are 006, they are what I need translated. (It's definitely older than '94, since it has the stupid internal slave). Also, when going to order a pilot bearing for a transmission, say the manufacture date was 1990, would you order a bearing for a '90, or a 91? I ask because of how vehicle manufacture seems to work. Even if it's manufactured in 2013, it's considered a 2014 vehicle. Or am I wrong?
  20. Oddmodman
    Oh, thanks for the info Mvusse. I was actually planning on just machining the shaft down to size if it turned out it didn't fit in the tranny. As for the bellhousing, I didn't actually need it, my ax15 has one. It's the bolts that are missing, and I really need to find some. Here in Alaska though parts and parts vehicles are somewhat hard to come by. Tomorrow I'll try calling the Chrysler dealer and see if they can get me bolt dimensions so I can make some.
  21. Oddmodman
    I'm curious about the proper cleaning of electrical terminals on our MJs. They seem to really gunk up, sludge up, and tar up quite heavily over time. Here in Alaska, a can of electrical parts cleaner costs around 7 bucks, which is far too much to blow through them regularly. So I'm curious if you can use a kerosene pumping parts cleaner to soak/clean out the electricals, then spray off the consequential residue with the electrical parts cleaner. Anyone know if it's safe for the electricals?
  22. Oddmodman
    Well I'm no expert, but I've done a ton of diesel reading, and to start with, there are only about 30 Renault MJs left in North America. Ridiculously rare, parts are ridiculously expensive, and Renault is notorious for being ridiculously pathetic. A 4BT, while a badass engine, weighs about 500 lbs more than our stock 4.0s, and puts out massive torque. Put together, that's far too much burden for power tradeoff for our unibody trucks. However, the industrial 3.3BT only weighs about 5 lbs more I believe than our 4.0s, and puts out impressive enough torque and power, not to mention its modifiability. Many people seem to like the MB 3.0 5 cylinder, a swap I myself am partial to in theory, however, according to people who know what they're doing, they're very difficult or expensive to power up, as opposed to what they can do with them in northern europe. Then there are the other industrial diesels, the Yanmars and Kubotas that can be turbo'd and put in, and there are actually a couple people out there that have put them in their MJs and been quite happy with them, reporting close to 40mpg if you do it right, with adequate power to match.
  23. Oddmodman
    Nevermind...the jerk sold the whole thing from under me for 150 bucks. If I knew he was going to sell the whole thing for that cheap I would have just bought it. Coulda solved an expensive, many-part problem if I just had the whole thing.
  24. Oddmodman
    Gotcha, didn't even think about which side the tcase would have to be on. I thought about how wide they were, and I didn't take measurements, but they didn't seem to be too different in width.
  25. Oddmodman
    Anyone ever put toyota axles under their mj? Heard they're totally bulletproof, so just curious why, seemingly, no one has ever changed over to them. Think they're actually stronger than the mj's D30?
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