Alexia

I am still waiting for the electric fan conversion to arrive from Dirtbound Offroad. Nine days and no shipping notification. :/ My list of needs to be done before starting the engine break in process. Valve Cover Grommets PCV Valve Valve Cover Breather Accelerator Cable Torque Converter Bolts Shifter Cable Oil Pan Bolts Fill With Oil Prime Oil Pump Transmission Lines Transmission Inspection Cover Radiator and Hoses Coolant Radiator Cap Power Steering Box and Plumbing Exhaust O2 Sensors AC Lines Firewall to engine ground Electric Fan Conversion

P1684 - Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts - Just a tell tale code for emissions inspection to catch people trying to clear codes by disconnecting the battery. If you are getting a slight draw with that relay hooked up it sounds like the relay is bad. Toss a spare relay in from another, such as the AC fan, to diagnose.

Relocate it into the center console like newer JKs!

Geonovast, you make that so obvious. :P

I guess he means the flexing Comanche.

How about a picture for those that ditched magazines long ago?

Stock motor mounts, but I swapped out the tranmission mounts for short stiffer rubber mounts that came with the AEV belly pan. I can tell they are transmitting more vibrations, but since they do not directly rest on the frame rails that affect is limited mostly to idling. Basically since the Brown Dog rubber mounts has less average distance between the bolt and the bushing housing the rubber has to be stiffer to preventing smashing into the housing. A stock motor mount has two inches of rubber between the seat and the bolt.

Their polyurethane does transmit a good amount of vibration. Their rubber mounts do transmit more than stock, but mainly at idle, certain RPM ranges, or load. I do have slightly stiffer rubber mounts, not Brown Dog, in my Wrangler and they only cause extra vibration at idle.

Turbo Diesel?! GETTING RID OF?! I think I can make a spare spot in my garage. >_> You know, if you wanted to part ways.

The stock lower control arm is 15.75" center to center. A 2" lift should need about a 15.8" length. A 3" lift, 16" length. The stock WJ lower control arm is 16" which should be more than enough for you. I am wondering if something is bent in your setup or if they are measuring it incorrectly. Savvy Offroad makes a set of control arms that should be adjustable down to the range you need. As well, they will not fall apart like the Rough Country arms.

Ever thought normal Torx was nasty to remove? Aluminum Torx bolt fastened at high torque!

Yikes! You will probably need to buy adjustable control arms. There are cam bolts you can buy for the lower control arms at the axle, but they cost a ridiculous amount at the dealership. Also, it does not look like your axle is drilled for the cam bolts. Buy lower adjustable control arms if the wheels are too far backwards in the wheel arms and upper for too far forward.

My LJ is still worth $3,300 more than I paid for it four years ago.

It shows how many actively have the Shoutbox page open.

Rust, bucket seat is worn out, tears/rips in the driver door seal, bumper is bent/broken, and the paint only looks good in the pictures since it was just washed/is wet. I would offer $2,000 maximum.

Someone point me to where one could find a set of the four switch panel? I am having trouble finding a good, but not expensive source. I saw one on eBay, once. I want one with four switches since Air On Board makes nice factory style switches to pop in there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocker-switch-330-12-volt-Front-diff-locker-OFF-Jeep-Wrangler-1997-2006-/261127846281?hash=item3ccc6eb989&item=261127846281&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Sounds like you need http://imgur.com/.

Mine arrives at the office on Wednesday. Then by Thursday I have burns and horrible welding pictures!

I drove like that for over a month and doing front wheel drive burn outs. It was a blast! However, that was with a 1996+ sealed rear output.

A cold chisel and a hammer works great for removing the old bushings. Using the chisel to deform the sleeve inwards on the end opposite of where it will come out. Once it is deformed enough it will create a nice lip to hammer against and pop it out. The new bushing will tap into place with a socket or a block of wood. The 4WD and 2WD bushings are the same for all D30/beams for all years XJ, MJ, and TJ. They should be the same for ZJ and WJ as well, but I do not have the parts in front of me to verify.

The transmission cross member and support goes in tonight.(Paint is drying.) After that I install the starter, partial exhaust, underside wiring, and maybe the steering box. Then I have to do a dreaded job. Dropping the gas tank to figure out fuel delivery. Did you leave gas in that thing? I would think not, but hoping that the tank is empty! I want to have it running by this coming weekend. Arriving this week: Dirtbound Offroad - XJ Electric Fan Conversion Iron Rock Off Road - Double Shear Track Bar Ruff Stuff - D44 Spring Perches Spidertrax - WHS-013 JK Wheel Adapters JCR Offroad - DIY MJ Rear Bumper

IT LIVES! (Mostly)

What about using Harbor Freight's cargo carrier as a basket? Already the perfect width and length. Just trim the hitch receiver tube down. On sale for $40 right now. http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-steel-cargo-carrier-69623.html

How to make a 1999+ lock cylinder fit in 1997-1998 ignitions. New 9.547" push rods installed. This was a pain getting it to measure correctly. Lots of accessories, vacuum lines, and other bits installed. Cleaned, sanded, cleaned, and pied valve cover. Gloss black valve cover - Normally my policy is to paint the valve cover green on any engine I work on. This will be an exception to keep the color scheme.