Alexia

Ruff Stuff's D44 Simple Swap Kit comes with 5/8" bolts which is why I mentioned it in the document. My updated version I am working on has part numbers for that kit. The nice part about going to 5/8" is that since they can be torqued to over 200 foot pounds it is unlikely they will ever stretch making them much more friendly for retorquing in the future.

The stress on the stock control arms will be reduced by the fact they are starting at the proper angle. This lift cost is a good starter and then the person can upgrade the control arms later. It was about eight hours of searching CC, NAXJA, and doing cross reference on RockAuto. A lot of time was just spent which sites sold the best product at the best price. Lots of companies make and sell spring perches, but Ruff Stuff has the best at a great price. I need to go back and put in links of where to buy each part.

Many of the Rubicon Express parts listed have either go way up in price or are no longer available in their original form. As a result the price point of this lift kit is no longer valid. I spent most of the weekend researching all the parts to go into this lift. Many I have done on my own MJ while building it. The intention of this lift is to be entirely complete, have good ride quality, flex well, and require no hacks to install. Most of the parts are bought from RockAuto.com. Suggestions and improvements are welcome! http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html

Oh hey there! :D Welcome to the forum. Engine cost alone for a decent used Vortec is going to be expensive in the first place. Custom wiring harnesses? People stop asking when I tell them how much I charge to make them. Copper wire with good quality insulation is certainly not cheap. Then there is the brand new usually never been fabricated before cost for mounts which includes trial and error. That is why I am doing a 4.0L -> 4.7L stroker. :P The only trial and error there is screwing up the rebuild!

The bed side pull is really damn nice!

Probably $10,000 to start.

Yep, that owner totally swapped the XJ Wagoneer grill on to a MJ. Follow Eagle's instructions to swap it back. Then sell the whole Wagoneer grill set for a good amount of money. People want them and will pay for it.

You should change the wiring and it is easy to do so. It just holds in with ties and clips.

I am entirely fine with and want them to install the parts when finished. No point having me do it when they can get it done easily and safely. :D I just thought it was dumb that it would be required to show up with all the parts installed for them to remove. I already have a 200 PSI storage air compressor with adjustable output.

That could end up being the correct length for mine at 5.5" lift height. I will have to see once I lift the rear end and get the drive train installed.

I keep a complete stack of format conversion equipment in the closet. I can convert just about any region VHS, Betamax, and DVD format to digital. The only thing I do not have is a Laserdisc player since I have never come across a Laserdisc I needed to convert. I calculated that it would take about one month of nonstop playback to convert all my VHS tapes to digital.

There are two known good shops in town. The first one I went to basically said they would not even look at the pictures I had. They wanted the vehicle to be able to drive to them. Unfortunately that defeats the purpose of bringing it to them fully stripped of exterior trim.(Since that would make it illegal even in Alabama.) They actually told me they would refuse to paint it if it was brought with items such as the hood already removed. They wanted me to bring it in with everything in place so they could remove those parts, paint, and then reinstall. The other shop is friendly, but they are so busy they can barely even give quotes.

That is really tempting. It looks to be in great condition from the single picture.

They are always worth the cost to swap them in the rear of a Cherokee. For everything else I go the route of if you manage to break the bar pin. Cheapies that are kind of model specific. http://roughcountry....eliminator.html Expensive, but should work generally on any shock in any location. http://www.quadratec...s/16030_101.htm

I considered it! Maybe a matte black. :P

Yeah, I really don't want to cover it in Line-X bed liner. I rather get the whole thing painted, but of the two well known paint shops in town they both basically blew me off.

I had to go translate Australian, I was not exactly sure what you said. :D I ordered the pistons from RPM Machine. Keith Black IC-944 with a 0.060" over sized bore. I am going to get the most liters I safely can with off the shelf components. http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5972 The paint, well, I have recieved rough estimates of $4,000 to $5,000 for repaint in the same or a different color. That even includes that I will have already stripped all trim and done a bit of light preparation sanding. Line-X over the entire body would be $1,000 to $1,500.

Yeah, the angles right now are still extreme because there is no drive train. I ordered the pistons for the stroker today. Thinking about paint, considering covering the entire body in Line-X since it will be cheaper than paint.

I paid $350 for my XJ D44. It was very local, had nearly new brakes, and ready to install.

You can manually type in the img tag codes either in RTE mode or raw edit mode.(Click the light switch in the upper left of the edit box to toggle it.) I was also able to just replicate what you describe with using the arrow keys. What browser are you using?

Make sure to click "Items that I participated" and "Last year" for the time range. Then you should see a lot more. The default is to show new content within the last 24 hours that you have not read.

Sway bar was squeaking and rusty. Sanding, paint, new oddly blue bushings, white lithium grease, and JKS quick disconnects that were laying around unused. Cleaned and greased the disconnects which made them come back to life! Brand new spring retainer clips. Again, I just had these in a parts box in the MOPAR packaging.

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/3281485110.html http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/3276769316.html http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3222910188.html (Automatic 2WD) http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3214740716.html - This one is nice, but needs a couple items such as bumper end caps and some fixes to light wiring. The price is good $2,500. I have all the parts that could complete it just laying around. http://www.searchtempest.com/results.php?location=35759&maxDist=200&region_us=1&search_string=Comanche&keytype=adv&Region=na&cityselect=zip&page=0&category=8&hasPic=1&subcat=cta&minAsk=1&maxAsk= If you are coming through Huntsville to go see one I can tag along to help inspect it. I know enough about them after tearing one apart to know what all the do not buy signs would be.

Yesterday, Jeep dealership parts counter on the phone taking down a part order. "Is 2004 a Grand Cherokee or a standard Cherokee?" Today, same guy, "Yeah, we have a few Comanche tail lights around the country." *Orders Cherokee tail lights.*

It should for the bracket, but the canister itself may be different. The bracket is the same from 1987 to 1997.(MOPAR #53007836) RockAuto.com has the 1997 emissions canister.