Alexia

I really have not done much to it in the past two months. I needed to build a new computer which was been taking precedent over my slush funds, but I did make an update video today. Skip to 3:55 for running and driving. I have pretty much decided to paint it olive drab green assuming I can find a company that sells the darker version and not the yellowish version.

I love it, Wrz. :D

Yep, the cover attaches as part of the whole air bag assembly. Mine was all scratched up and I managed to remove it from the air bag assembly without removing the entire air bag.

Yep, definitely do the axle swap first. That will show if there will be an issue with the gas tank interfering with the larger axle. Bed on or off is preference. I am short enough to sit up straight underneath and can squirm around rather well.

Photobucket blows for posting videos basically. Make an account on YouTube and upload it there. When posting here use the [media][/media] tags with the link to it in between.

Permatex MotoSeal 1 grey RTV for sealing the gas tank. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29132-MotoSeal-Ultimate-Gasket/dp/B000HBGHKE

Any technical answers from me are just general answers as I do not direct experience with this motor. 1) Could use any technical publiations with details on motor.Already have factory shop manual which isn't very complete. There is a diesel manual supplement floating around the internet somewhere. I am still trying to find it. Rob(Automan2164) may be able to send you some details. He also has a thread on his diesel truck with many pictures from doing engine tune ups. http://comancheclub.com/topic/31030-diesel-fuel-only-factory-diesel-comanche/ 2) Have oil in radiator. Where is it coming from? is this a common problem? Option A.) The radiator includes an oil cooler for the transmission. The radiator may have fail and is allowing the fluids to mix. This means replacing the radiator, flushing the oil and coolant, and refilling. Option B.) The "OH NO" option. Oil in the radiator can mean a blown head gasket. Another way to verify this is if the oil on the dip stick is milky. 3) Where is vacuum reservior? On 4.0L models it is attached to the back of the bumper on the right side. Just a round plastic ball. 5) Would like to hear another one run as a comparison.I live in Phoenix,AZ From Rob.

That Pro-Line clear plastic body blank would make a great gelatin mold.

The fuel pressure should be 49.2 PSI +/- 5 PSI. 47 PSI is fairly typical on those fuel pumps. The stuttering looks like a pump issue. Mine flows just fine when powered on.

I think people forget that the original Jeep was produced after the wars by a company that used to exclusively make only road cars some of those road cars being under the Jeep name. If you are complaining about Chrysler making Jeeps that do not focus on off road first then you are over fifty years late to the argument. As for that YJ, it is over priced. There are plenty more of them out there in good used condition than some even more recent Jeep models.

How do you know? Ever had it dynoed? I have. I want more too. Didn't realize it was way back in 08 after the 09 intake manifold and Unichip install. You can see how everything jumped up from the previous run. The BLUE lines are torque, Red is HP. Peak HP is at 4400RPM. The PURPLE O2x100 lines is A/F ratio. http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/dyno_zps5d081000.jpg I promise to get it dyno'ed once I have the transmission and transfer case issues worked out. Right now I am relying on calculations I wrote down to estimate the horsepower which depending on the variables I supplied ranged from 260 to 290 with a mean of 275 and a weighted average of 280. It seems the bad Pentastar cylinder heads were a short lived issue. The 3.6L with the variable valve timing is interesting to drive and almost reminds me of turbocharger lag as it builds up horsepower while switching over timing. It roars to life moving the Jeep forward then WHAM! It all kicks in rather suddenly. The 3.6L really could be the next big legacy in Chrysler engines, but at least there will be tons of spares available since they are being tossed in every 2011+ Chrysler vehicle.

Mine weights something around 3,300 pounds. I have the scale sheet around somewhere. 285 horsepower in a light Comanche? That is about what comes out my stroker and I want more. As for doing the swap it is entirely possible. All the electronics would be necessarily and if the factory PCM is to be kept then the firmware would have to be changed to disable items such as traction control.(Unless you added that too.)

SWEET. This reminded me of that Craigslist tactic. Which just scored me a NP242 for $100. Yep, entirely unrelated, but it came up in the search. The misspelling has to do with how it is pronounced. People say the syllables "Co"-"Man"-"Che", but the other people hear "Com"-"Man"-"Chee".

It is the "Preventing Yelling in Topics" feature. It automatically runs ucwords(strtolower()) against all titles when displaying them.

340 pounds of steel - $38 earned. Which I turned into some wood to rebuild my old desk.

That's interesting, considering that they didn't use the AX-15 in either 2000 or 2001. It shows it for all manual five speeds for those years with a 4.0L.

The 1997 AW4 cross member I installed was exactly the same as the BA5/10 cross member I took off. MOPAR #52002328, the same as Hornbrod posted. I am also seeing #52003929 for the AX15 all the way up to 2001.

I dropped a washer into my fully built engine when it was missing the valve cover. Maybe you had something like that happen. The valves only need to bend over so slightly to make them useless at sealing. For roller rockers that will not fit under the stock valve cover Hesco makes a valve cover spacer to raise it up. http://hesco.us/products/7735/cylinder-heads/181404/xj-valve-cover-spacer-kit-ph-hes40xjvcs

Welcome to the site, Devin!

There is aqua colored one that Auto Zone sells for GM vehicles that works perfectly for XJ/MJ header panels. The only problem that I found with it is that it clips perfectly in only a couple of the spots, but not all of them. That could also be an issue with my cheap eBay header panel.

I stopped by the Lander's DCJ dealership after the junkyard on Saturday. It was a $20 donation to enter a vehicle into the show. I figured why not just to be silly since I was doing to toss in the donation anyway.(They were giving away raffle prizes and free food!) Just imagine this mismatched paint, unpainted on some parts, faded paint, missing half the interior, various junk yard Comanche parts in the bed, and a bunch of loose tools on the passenger seat. Tossed the hood up to show off the shiny engine bay to distract the judges.(To also hide the LKQ marks on the hood!) The competition in the off road category was FIERCE! So much I must have scared them all off. My shiny engine bay distraction plan must have worked. First place and a t-shirt just for showing up.

It's like, 50% tech and 50% pub material. I am wondering where to get a replacement set myself since mine are rusted.

Entirely different wiring system. 1991+ is the HO style.

1986- - The dipped front cross member and the non-depressed area next to the large oval wire grommet hole gives it away.

The eBay links are showing up since parkia86 copied his post direct from the HTML output on his topic on JeepForum instead of the source of the post. JeepForum runs advertisements that link words to advertisements. I went ahead and removed them.