Alexia

This be a poll.

Thanks! I have a few spots to touch up, but I need to find my air brush instead of the paint gun.

I was holding a mask to my face, shaking from excitement, and taking pictures with a $#!&ty iPhone camera. It is GREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEN!

Tomorrow is time for color. I had to respray primer in a few places where I sanded through.

SWB + 4.0 + Manual + 4WD with D35 = 43.25" or with D44 = 42.25" The D44 is about 1" longer than a D35 and the Chrysler 8.25 is about 5/8" longer than a D35. A 5" lift requires about an extra inch of drive shaft length which in your case will be compensated for by the length of the Chrysler 8.25. Your stock drive shaft may fit perfectly. Put the drive shaft in place. Mark the transfer case output shaft where the slip yoke stops. Remove the drive shaft. Measure from the mark on the output shaft to the rear edge of the shaft. Measure the inside depth of the slip yoke. Subtract the output shaft measurement from the slip yoke measurement. This will give the maximum slip travel. Ideally 1.5" of slip travel is wanted, but it can get down to a bare minimum of 1".

The face plates can be removed from the gauges and swapped separately.

That is damn shiny and the clear coat looks like there are no issues with orange peel. That is going to good great all put together.

I grounded my fuel pump to the body inside the cab B pillar after it came in through the floor plug. The fuel level sender wires both need to go back to the PCM for an accurate reading. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38375-1997-cherokee-fuel-pump-to-1997-2004-dakota-fuel-pump/ The PCM applies a smoothing algorithm to the fuel level except during initial start up. The initial key turn sets the gauge immediately to the correct level. However, if the wires were to be removed or the float manually moved with the key turned on it can take over a minute for the gauge to move across the extreme change that was sensed.

Replace the plastic linkage connectors with ones that keep the rod from wobbling and remove the handle from the door to lubricate the back side of the button assembly.

One of these! Note, it says that it will not mar the finish, but I found that a light buffing would be required. I believe you are planning on painting anyway though. http://www.amazon.com/Industries-Smart-Eraser-Drill-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=pd_sim_indust_5

You do have insulation now, correct? I added insulation to the garage door and the worst I have to do is put a fan at the inside door to the house to circulate the air.

Might be good to wait a bit. The humidity is pretty up there today, like 75%. Rain coming too........ 3PM was looking like a good time. 50% range of humidity and a minimal chance of rain. I might go ahead use the pint I have to paint the cowl cover. I can not sand the primer smooth in fear of scraping through to the plastic. So, paint two wet coats of color, sand that smooth, and then paint it with one wet coat with the rest of the body.

If the axle was entirely stripped of every part, out of the vehicle, and able to be stood up on end then I would run a soapy water mix through it. Only because it could be stood up on end to drain it properly. The only reason I did not do the axle seals on the D44 is because they are pressed on to the axle shaft. One ended up leaking and I have to get it replaced anyway.

TCP Global mispacked the color kit and only sent a pint of reducer instead of a quart. They are sending out a quart this week. Everything was ready to spray color today. :/

I remember looking up the lengths on JK shocks and decided against it. That is all you really need to do is look up the lengths on them and compare to stock MJ shocks.

The fender flares look great! As for the date stamp it is likely the production date of that panel and not the truck itself.

2000 XJ uses EV6 connectors. Those injectors probably have EV1 connectors. Hence, these adapters. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS2-LS3-to-LS1-Injector-Fuel-Injector-Adapters-set-of-8-EV6-EV1-/190891205172?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7200a234&vxp=mtr Can you get us the part numbers off the sides of the injectors? That will tell us more about them.

$118.79 on Rock Auto. ACC Part #116387VINYL - Choose from black, beige, gray, and medium blue.

Neohic, you take persistent to an entirely new level. :P

I am working on it, really. I am just lazy. This week is perfect for painting after work too.

Everyone has the same problem with the Dakota tank in the same spot and some do the heat warping trick. If I mounted mine without warping the tank there would have been about one inch of clearance.

This entire thing is very well done!

I have been slow working on this. The next two weeks are perfect for painting though with temperatures around 75ºF during the day and evenings. Flaw Marking - Hashes, need to hard sand away chips/pits. Not shown, slash mark, apply body filler following the mark. Huh, lacquer thinner should not remove factory paint that easily. Whoops, apparently paint was blended into this door during a repair and poorly cured acrylic paint was used. That is the VIN sticker. I spent an hour or so extra just cleaning up this paint mess. Hood, now in proper primer! This is my door tree where I grow Cherokee doors. The red color showing means they are starting to ripen.

Exactly. I do not live in Huntsville, but it is the closest largest city and where I generally meet people to make exchanges.