Alexia

Mine is the same way and is broken some how. I actually broke the plastic handle off trying to get it unstuck.

He used Bilstein 5100 series shocks, Front: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VTIMVU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FU6PWI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Are the exact models he used on his, I ordered a set myself. Yep, those are the ones I bought. The bar pin has to be pressed out and replaced with aftermarket bushings. I reused the bushings from the previous shocks since they were still good. The rear shocks: I ended up using the Zone Offroad ZONJ5859 and mounted the shocks higher on the rear axle. http://www.nonamestudios.com/uploads/gallery/album_12/gallery_1_12_131064.jpg Depending on how the Iron Rock mounts are put in place it might be needed to use the one inch longer Bilstein 33-151663 shocks for the rear. The Iron Rock mounts are a little more flexible in mounting position than the Zone Offroad mounts. Ride: Front is smooth especially after adding WJ lower control arms. The rear is a little rough due to the light rear, but smooths out with a few hundred pounds of load. *Shrugs* I made the choice to use drop brackets solely for retaining the stock control arms and a good control angle to keep a good on road ride. That is really a choice for you to make. You could always do it without the drop brackets first to see how you like and how the control arms look.

http://www.arbusa.com/Vehicle/1987-jeep-cherokee-xj.aspx RD102 for Dana 35 rear 3.54+ http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker-Dana-35-27-Spline-354--Up-RD102-P3499.aspx RD116 for Dana 44 rear 3.92+ http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker-Dana-44-30-Spline-392--Up-RD116-P3511.aspx This is nearly double the stated $377 cost though which is why I grabbed the 35 spline RD109 version. I will come out ahead with 35 spline axle shafts too.

i never read their terms and conditions, but would imagine it says somewhere they have the right to cancel any order that was improperly priced. but then again if they ship it out the door before they realize what happened... http://autopartswarehouse.com - They have the same SKUs for roughly $11 cheaper. This seems like it is a drop ship pricing issue from ARB themselves. Both JCW and APW do not carry them in stock. Someone put a RD109 in my cart and hit order... >_>

No no no, won't buy, can't... ARGH. That is too tempting! Any bets all orders get cancelled?

This is my to do shelf. I have been organizing everywhere into a neat area to stage the various things that I need to do. I also need to wait until after taxes are done to make any large purchases. Fender Flares - Actually considering just grabbing Napier's flares. I do not want to cut the sheet metal, but I having too much trouble with the used parts that I have. Shift linkage and D30 cover.(Boxes are seals for the Wrangler.) Electronics galore! AEM, radio, and some wiring. Supercharger - I need easily another $500 in parts to support it. Random stuff. On the floor is the gas tank cover, extra Dynamat, amplifier wiring, and spare parts.

Even parting it out for $300 is great. To put this in perspective my 1997 donor was $500 with a running engine and wrecked in the rear. I thought that was a great deal.

Swapping the display requires unsoldering a bazillion tiny solder joints. The guy in the video obviously knows how to do that -- I can solder larger stuff, but I know I'm not good enough to do that. But ... The video shows that the display itself wasn't the problem, it was one of the chips that drive the display. So if I replicate his jumper experiment and my display light up, then I should be able to "fix" mine the same way he did, just by soldering in a jumper through a resistor. That I can handle. Dave, I have two Kenwoods new-in-box that I could use. I prefer the factory look, and the factory radio does everything I want. If anybody made a reasonably-priced 1-1/2-DIN replacement I might be tempted, but there were never a lot of those and they now seem to have disappeared from the marketplace. To go aftermarket in a 2001 XJ you have to use a single-DIN head with a 1-1/2-DIN adapter bezel, and I think that looks stupid. I meant swapping the entire front circuit board with the display from a working unit.

Some details on replacing the bearing including a part number: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1073406 MOPAR 53011002 - This is from my 1997-2001 parts list, but it also says it is the same for a YJ so I believe it should match. A dealership might actually have it cheaper. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/bracket-air-conditioning-53011002.html

Well, you can swap a working display if you can find a working display. The display in my 1997 stock XJ radio works fine surprisingly. I will be replacing it with an aftermarket radio though.

This video has a thorough process of diagnosing these radios. The electrician ends up finding a different radio then goes to the trouble of unsoldering the VFD to get at a replacement control chip underneath it. Even after replacing the chip he finds that it still does not work. So he then builds a new voltage regulating chip to run the display instead. The short version: Replace it unless you have lots of patience to replace some chips.

None of the electrical is hooked up, but it is hung. At 55MPH the heavy weight of the mirror causes it to oscillate in an oval motion making it useless while the windshield itself is barely vibrating.

Your 1998+ XJ cylinder does not appear to be seated all the way into the hole. It is wider than the hole in the 1997 XJ steering column. I ground a bit of the blank plastic off the top and some of the metal off off the sides to make it fit. http://www.nonamestudios.com/uploads/gallery/album_12/gallery_1_12_26665.jpg

Can I come if there is another? '_' Please?

The floor pan rust and bits of faded paint work did not exactly call $8,000+ material to me, but it is still in line for good condition original factory examples.

That is a nice paint job on the valve cover. :D

I unbolt the cup off the top of a jack and bolt a sturdy wide piece of wood in place. Bam, transmission jack!

Do you remember where it was? I can't find it. :hmm: http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-4?do=findComment&comment=352849 I got the idea from someone else on here.

They brace the drop bracket to the frame. If you only drive on the road they are probably not needed. Off road, it would probably be a good idea.

I installed the Hella ECE H4 housings late December and they have been great to drive with. The line cut off is actually better with a more defined edge than the 7" round Hella ECE H4 housings in my Wrangler.

They are not included in the kit and are a separate purchase. If you need them is up to you.

My heater stopped working well half way through the night and water stopped working before then. The pipes do not appear to be frozen, but we simply no longer have water in the area. 7ºF outside right now. I "showered" in the work bathroom.

Yep, you can see the aluminum shaft in the glamor shot. :D

Yes, they are part of the engine wiring harness.

I need two of the inner vent flappy pieces that pop into the B-Pillar behind the vent cover. Mine are unfortunately melted.