Alexia

Sound deadening! I used the Dynamat 10455 kit in my cab and ended up with about half the sheets left over which will get used in my LJ. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020CB2S/ I recommend buying new MOPAR 55176148AC 1997+ weatherstripping. I actually just got my set in on Thursday. I ordered on 2014-04-22 and they were produced 2014-05-03, after I ordered. My donor seals from the 1997 XJ ended up being worn to match how the 1997 doors closed on the 1997 body so there are weird gaps that I could not correct with minor adjustments. Make some new fender well foam baffles out of some quality closed cell craft foam. This cut down a huge chunk of tire noise.

Yes. I was entirely too lazy to actually edit a picture. :P

Yep, I had to hole drill a new hole in mine.(Which was cause of fire #3.) Right above my pointer finger and behind the line is where I added it. Here is the hole from the inside just a little left and little down from the center of the picture above the transmission hump.

I took a break from being sick to finish gluing, trimming, and stapling the trim to the rear backer board.

If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit. Wait, this confuses me a little. Isn't my fuse panel already connected to my battery in such a way? Do you not recommend plugging the window/mirror motors into that fuse panel? Or do you mean running an aftermarket secondary fuse panel solely for the doors? If i'm correct, I need a 12V source for the window motor, a 12V source for the heated mirror, a 12V source for the mirror motions and a continuous 12V for the door lock. Do you have any suggested reading material on this subject? The Haynes manual is great for reference, but I've never had to wire a car before. Just two strokes without a battery or fuse box. Correct, they all technically have their own separate feeds and should at least have their own fuses. I followed the wiring pin outs and diagrams in the factory service manual for 1997-2001 Cherokee models.

I want to buy your 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee factory OEM fiberglass header panel. Paint can be faded/bad, but the fiberglass needs to be unbroken with no gouges in it. I am willing to pay for shipping if it is not outrageous, but local pick up makes more sense.

Take the measurements off one of your MJs? Not like anything besides a few mounting holes changed in those areas over the model years as long as it is 1987 and up.

If you paste a link directly into the post/reply box it will be parsed and become a link automatically upon posting.

Only $46,000 USD to start. The things stowed away just never end.

Please post your sources for this information and cite it.

Try it for yourself: http://www.teslamotors.com/models/design The early adopters are paying the up front costs of research and development. Tesla's current goal is to introduce a model in the $30,000 to $40,000 range in 2015.(The cheapest right now being $63,570.) Tesla Motors planning to facilitate that by building a battery factory in the USA to avoid having to ship chemicals around then ship heavy batteries back to the USA.

I see people did not read the article. This is fuel from corn waste(stalks, leaves, etcetera) and not corn kernels itself. Distilling corn kernels to ethanol is much easier. Also, Tesla is not failing. Their sedan is one of the most popular high end luxury cars right now and their stock is doing well having jumped nearly $200 in the past year. Also, $87,070 is the base price of the high end P85 Model S which is $34,930 less than your quoted average selling price. Even with some options added to make a P85+ it still only comes to $110,000. Clearly you have not read or done any research.

If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit.

Yes, I did, but I did not have a power harness that supported all the power door functions. I ended up creating my own power harness and wired it off the existing power unused power lead coming out of the fuse box.

There is a NP242 and front drive shaft installed now. The Novak shifter bracket was the wrong part and I modify it to work. These sound suppression foam strips go inside the inner fender. The originals were made of porous foam and collapsed under their own weight. The new ones I made out of closed cell craft foam do not absorb water and have plastic support sandwiched in the layers. This cut down road noise dramatically. I was able to retain the stock fender support bracket to keep the rigidity of it.

I prefer them without the edge trim actually. The edge trim is good at filling small gaps due to body imperfections. Stock flares are very soft and flexible making them easy to contour to the metal. The Napier flares are stiffer and do not flex the same. I spent some time with a belt sander to adjust the fitment on each flare. I spent $50 on hardware to assemble my own custom kit and that was at wholesale prices.

Look for ripples in the metal in the C and D pillars and along the entirety of the frame rails. My donor Cherokee looked okay besides the bashed in quarter panel, but those little ripples were indicators that it entered a pre-taco state. A quick glance estimate would be up to $5,000 of damage there.

*Looks up the date.* Crap, I promised my friend I would go to Texas to visit her.

The stock coil is good enough for regular driving. Attempting to get more consistent horsepower out of it at higher RPM can be done by moving to multiple coils.(See the newer 4.0L engines with the coil rails.)

Oh, not really a loss then. A destroyed Corvette that was destroyed more by falling into a hole!

Apparently some MJ drive shafts are double wall which requires special components.

If you hate yourself and wish to replace it all later buy the Rough Country kit. They do the absolute minimal engineering on their products.

Yes, 1996+ is external slip yoke. 1" of minimum slip travel is typical depending on lift height. My quick calculations show only 0.5" of slip is technically needed for a stock height Comanche.

I have one of those brand new on my LJ's original spare down stairs. As you said, all too far away. :/

Looks like the end links could just be flipped 180º so that they bolt to the inside of the sway bar and avoid the leaf springs.