Alexia

It is probably the same person every time. Put up a wild life motion camera pointing out the back window and check it the next time trash shows up.

That's because I was next door helping my friend Azzy run his booth and bought it ASAP. Nathan was really nice too, he gave me a bunch of spare parts. Oh, and I bought the cargo light and switch off of him for $5.. Yep, I saw that was missing too when I came back for the hitch. I was the gauge cluster reprogrammer that kept coming by. :P

Got a pic of that tail light ? Sweet . I will once I clean up the decent old right side and wash the MJ in about week or so.(No promises, I get lazy!)

Z&M Jeeps had a NOS left tail light for $80. I have it locked up in my MJ. :D All I need is a right side to match it. A MJ actually won against all the Cherokee models out there in the stock category. The Comanche model really needs its own category by this point with over ten there this year.

The Mercedes diesel conversion booth was selling an original Draw-Tite MJ hitch for $75. It was gone before I could even get back with the money!

I will be there early in the morning!

Just a teaser of the rear bumper. A local fabricator in the RCRC club put this all together and did the finish work. I could not stop touching it and rubbing my hand over the smooth metal! I will be at the 19th Annual All Breeds Jeep Show in York, PA this coming weekend.

Thanks! I disassembled it quickly two years ago and promptly forgot how it all went together.

From what I can tell the interior assembly order is:(List corrected per Keyav8r.) Upper A to B pillar trim. Lower A to B pillar trim. B Pillar Trim. Backer Board(Carpet under and behind the backer board.) Upper Rear Backer Board Trim

I will be there with the Comanche.

I have the music blaring in the house so I can not hear the explosions outside! Time to rock out and work on Jeeps.

The backer board is made of pressed cardboard. Any moisture or water immediately deteriorates the material. :( Though it holds up to water better than MJ floor pans!

Tiny Air HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORN.

The only Rough Country part I did not have break within 20,000 miles were there springs. Bushings, tie road ends, and shocks all broke within that time frame. Some twice within that time frame. That is despite that they could not properly measure the correct length of shock in the first place.

I have to redo mine before an upcoming road trip. The front leaks, but only a few drops after turning off the engine. I even had the luxury of putting the gasket and pan on with the long block on a stand turned upside down.

If you have the plain text editor enabled click the "light switch" icon in the upper left of the editor tool bar to enable rich text editing mode. Welcome back! Looks like you just need to toss a bunch of parts into it. :P

I do plan on purchasing a set of these soon since my engine moves enough under heavy acceleration to contact the fan assembly even with stock replacement mounts.

Many people use them to fix the exact problem of sheered bolts. Note that their frame side mounts will introduce more vibration into the body. However, you can use their engine side brackets with new stock replacement rubber frame side mounts.

Just one for now! The second one I purchase will be 2WD, V8, and lowered for racing.

Summarized: http://www.insanityinc.us/insane0076.html

I just mocked up the passenger seats in the living room to some pieces of wood.(Since measuring the bracket differences was impossible.) The Baja XRS sits just 0.5" taller in the front of the seat base which is under the clearance that could be gained against the transmission tunnel. However, it is over 1" taller at the back of the seat base. There is no transmission hump back there to get in the way so it could lower down some.

I ran into a semi-expected problem install Corbeau Baja XRS with the Comanche specific mounting brackets. The mounting brackets mount the seat one to two inches too high and one inch too far close to the door. Unfortunately with Corbeau's seats, it is necessary. Lowering the seat position would cause the bottom of the right bolster to hit the transmission tunnel as there is on 0.5" of clearance there. Moving the seat inwards towards the center console would cause it to contact the center console before even hitting the transmission tunnel. This seat is only 0.5" wider than stock, but all the problems are with the fact that it has a very rectangular seat shape that does not fit well in the Comanche's floor pan. Basically, I do not recommend the Corbeau seat brackets for the Comanche to use their seats. I have no issue with the seat itself being that it appears well made and comfortable. It just does not fit well inside the Comanche's tight cab. This bracket makes the seated position, even for short people, more dangerous in a side impact crash. I doubt anyone taller than 5'5" would fit with this installed.

*Starts to drool.* Are those all black interior pieces? I mean, if you happen to be selling...

I just installed the driver seat of the Corbeau Baja XRS with the MJ bracket.(They only sell a full replacement bracket.) The bracket is one to two inches too tall. I am short and my head is nearly touching the ceiling with the head liner removed. The seat is only about 0.5" wider than the the stock bucket seats, but the position on the bracket prevents the B pillar trim from being installed. If the trim could be installed the top bolster of the seat back would be tight against the trim preventing the seat belt from getting through. So... The seats are comfortable it seems, but the bracket needs slightly reengineered to work properly. However, there is a review on Amazon that mentioned this so I was prepared for the height issue. http://www.amazon.com/Corbeau-D848F-Bracket-Pickup-Comamche/product-reviews/B000FQ0D7Y/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1

Reground all the rust spots, retreated, sprayed several coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black over top, and now about six coats of Duplicolor Professional Undercoating over top of that. I believe the reason that the rust came back with the puddle is that I did not top coat the previous rust treatment. The passenger side fared better overall. I also cut off three inches of that foam sponge and rubber batting at the bottom that was trapping water. Once water soaks into them the rubber layer prevents it from evaporating easily.