Alexia

I had a remanufactured head sent to me so I simply transferred them one by one onto the new head. I only reused them because they had no abnormal wear and preloaded correctly. Since the push rods were new the order of the rockers did not matter.

~~***~~ Where as I personally find it annoying when people insist on using a different font style than the rest of posters thus breaking the flow of reading the thread. Allowing people to hard save that just further encourages it. However, IP.Board does not have this functionality anyway. ~~***~~

I used brand new push rods with old rockers. If the block or head has been shaved different length push rods may be required for the correct rocker arm preload.

It got worse last week after I went to the correct heat range of spark plugs. Too much throttle from a dead stop during the 2 to 1 down shift makes the tires break loose immediately. I have actually considered lowering it back down and putting good street tires on it just so I can use all the traction.

The headers themselves are fine, but the included down pipe is not bent in any way properly for a Comanche. Expect to have to cut the cross over section in half to rotate it into the correct position. I also had to bend the exhaust hanger at the transmission mount to get it lined up. Then there was me putting my feet on the transfer case and grabbing the pipe to bend it in the correct direction after that hanger. I am going to keep the header, but replace the down pipe with a custom piece. That header, no muffler, dumping out behind the cab. Skip to 3:58 for start up/idling and 4:33 for accelerating in the cab.

That fluid reservoir is amazing!

So last week when I was putting the bed on the hoist hook failed. It fell fairly gracefully and I had to climb out over the truck's frame rails. Minimal damage The metal is stretched so getting it flat without removing it is difficult. This is going to be covered in Line-X eventually so I did a minimal respray on it. Since I was painting I needed to correct the left front fender and the right cowl corner. Some touch ups went wrong during the initial painting and needed to be resprayed to get the correct level of gloss. Nice even shine! Goodies! Sprintex XJ Supercharger kit, Kelley Works cables, AEM F/IC, and a head unit that works.

Close!

Thanks! :D Photography is my other currently on hold hobby. Just need a new lens... Ohhh shiny Jeep part! *Buy now* Welding rod fasteners? Do you mean the zip ties? Fender flares are in the process of being painted. I also have to drill out all the studs on the rear flare retainers since every bolt broke.

This is the last of the paint. I can put all the tools away and forget about it! This paint coverage is better than factory with 100% color everywhere an owner would normally look. Instead of primer still visible in some spots like around the fuel filler door. Lets ignore the blob of filler under the second E. After spending six hours of this tail gate, with it being the best of two, it was time to just paint it.

I tape up the connectors, spray the green variety of cleaner on the wire loom, let it soak, and power wash it.

The problem with swapping to a Chrysler 8.25 is that there is less aftermarket parts support and those parts end up being 10% to 30% more expensive than comparable Dana 44 parts. The extra cost of buying a Dana 44 can end up being equaled in the extra cost for Chrysler 8.25 parts. Axle taken apart in that advertisement means I would skip it.

Put the lugs on finger tight and drive a few feet. Sometimes slamming on the brakes helps.

Forged pistons are a good idea. The stock crankshaft and connecting rods are rather strong up to around 400 horsepower. One of the main issues with forced induction is blowing out the head gaskets. Stock replacements, based on a few engines, appear to fail around 12 PSI. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3517

The ABS option on Cherokee models was not common at all. I have only seen one in my life. If for some reason you have a 1997+ computer with ABS programmed into it simply grab a non-ABS computer for the same year.

Is the front freeze plug leaking like it looks like or just splashed from somewhere else?

I read that product description as it being ONLY the aluminum tie rod. Sorry, this seems more reasonable now. I also put Savvy's aluminum control arms in all eight spots on my LJ. The cost comparison makes more sense now.

Do you have money to burn and want aluminum bling on your front end? Then yes! $500 for just the tie rod alone in aluminum is ridiculous.

IP.Board only supports Flikr image sets. Sorry. :/ I can see if I can get it to work.

I have spent the past week grinding out rust and applying filler on the bed. Curse you! :P O-Gauge Steamer over on NAXJA let everyone know that Sprintex is wholesaling the remaining prototype XJ kits. I ordered one and it is on the way. This means I can install a professional setup and keep air conditioning. Safelite came to install a new windshield today. I ended going with the rubber trim due to the condition of the chrome trim.

I HATE THAT PLUG! While mine only had one, since it was missing features, it still kept messing with me looking at the pin out diagrams.

Take the left and right dash side covers off. There a few grounds behind the metal dash frame there. If those are broken then all of the above issues can occur.

Changing the glass is easy besides all the clean up of the broken glass. Swapping the door and aligning it will be more a pain to do. If you need additional help or a vocal walk through PM me for my phone number. I am available tonight to talk. Take the door panel off. Two to three screws in the arm rest. One screen behind the door latch handle. Use a window crank removal tool to get the crank off.(Few dollars at the automotive parts store.) About eight push clips around the edges. Temporarily put the window crank back on and put the window track down about 2/3 until the two gold colored bolts can be see through the big opening. Unbolt glass retainers. Lots of glass clean up! To remove the rubber trim/track remove the lower inner seal then the outer lower seal. Then the rubber track can be grabbed and yanked out. Note: The rubber track inside the door at the bottom rear is riveted to the silver metal track. It clips in at the top and two bolts near the bottom rear of the inside door. Installing new glass: Make sure the rubber tracks are in place first, but leave the two lower trim pieces off for now. Grip the glass from the top tilting the front of the glass towards the ground at about a 45º angle and slowly start to lower it into the door frame being careful not to scratch it. Once the full length is inside it can be straightened up while inserting it into the tracks. Lower the glass to the two bolts and snugly tighten the bolts. Reinstall the lower trim and door panel pieces. Done!