Alexia

Hi!

They all look like reasonable prices. The stock one might need to be a little higher depending on mileage and other factors. #1 - Custom cages are expensive and that can easily be $2,000 worth of work. #2 - Worth what they are asking for. 1997+ swaps are time consuming and expensive to do.

Time to go microwave left over Applebee's!

Welcome to the site! I believe the only thing you find different on how a MJ drives differently than a XJ is that the rear end is more loose in the rain.

I saw Lowrange2 next these pictures and immediately was horrified thinking you bought this to part it out. :P

Cheap fluorescent tube fixtures with LED tubes. I just replaced the tubes that were failing in my fixtures every year with LED tubes. Theoretically I should be good for the next ten years.

Water pump, CPS, and thermostat are all good things to replace since they could negatively affect the engine break in process. The starter and alternator are easy to get to and replace should they be faulty after the engine break in process.

You can get it part of the current Humble Bundle. https://www.humblebundle.com/

Yeah, that is why I have done so much custom wiring on my MJ because of that 1997 XJ donor I used. The only year that is a direct match for anything is 1997.

All 1997-2001 years use Chrysler's proprietary bus. Mating a 1997 engine harness to any other year will be more work than just sourcing the correct year due to the fact that 1997 is a bastard year of wiring harness uniqueness. 1999 still uses a distributor and very few wiring changes were made for the interior wiring harness connectors throughout 1999-2001. Finding a 1999 engine harness and computer would be the best match then make any necessary pin changes in the white and grey rectangular bulkhead connectors under the dash.

Just renewed the license for the forum software.

Did you replace the plastic chain guide at the same time? It might have broken after putting the cover back on. I am finishing up rebuilding the top side of my LJ's engine for excessive valve noise right now. I replaced the timing chain last year and that soothed the noise for a while.

Boop: https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/1987-jeep-comanche--/30-380--/ They are more expensive than stuff from eBay, but they have good customer service and replacement policies. I have yet to find a replacement LED module that has built in dimming.

Never seen one of those before. I'll have to make one, I'm way overcrowded. Also, what kind of sound damping material did you use in your cab? I saw it in one of your videos and was wondering. Thanks Dynamat - I found a good deal on one of their kits that ended up being cheaper than the competition.

I normally have the frame on jack stands, springs removed, the upper controls bolted in lightly, and then I use a floor to raise and lower the axle until the lower control arms find a nice spot that lets the bolts go through. If the springs are in it will make everything much harder since they will forcefully rotate the axle some.

That is an AEV Brute conversion shown in all pictures.

This is BY FAR the worst designed kit. After shortening the reservoir then cutting and modifying the mounting bracket I find out that the kit should have included two 45º*fittings instead of a 90º and 45º. Fine, whatever, so I look up the specifications on the reservoir since there are no instructions including detailing these things and order the -10AN 45º fittings listed. They actually use -12AN fittings and now I am having to pay for overnight shipping on the other fittings to get this MJ out of the garage. *Flips a desk.* In absolutely no way did PSC actually test this kit on a XJ like they claim. If they had spent even five minutes actually test fitting this they would have realized all the issues. The included -12AN and -6AN fittings hit the air box. Sliced, bent, and welded the mounting bracket to correct the angle. Added some spacers to move the clamp to the correct position.

Just do not drive it through any dust storms or places that could thrown stones up.

There are electronics, "computerized", in the wiper modules for Jeeps since the 1980s. This just happens to be a new issue.

It would not surprising me if they put it in a drive shaft welding machine and let it spin.

Part of the power steering installation was a full PSC pump, PSC reservoir, and a passive cooler installation. However, I learned the hard way that PSC sells a kit for XJ models, but never actually did any fitment testing on the reservoir. It is up to the end user to make it fit whether that be cutting a hole in the hood or modifying the wheel weel. So I cut 1.5" out of the reservoir to make it fit next to the brake booster with the included bracket. Just waiting to hear back from a local welder who can do aluminum. I do not want to spend the money to get my old welder setup for aluminum. I have also found a shorter version of this filter in case for whatever reason the tall one causes issues in the smaller container.

I spent less time fabricating a pipe than I did researching companies that might make one. Get a shop to make a nice one or make it yourself.

Not me! Moderators come around and censor swear words I type out. :P I like the red swooshes. Though, I have never seen it in person so maybe it looks different(better/worse) in real life.

A 2000 or 2001 XJ with 50,000 to 100,000 miles can easily be sold for over $7,000 assuming it has four wheel drive and four liters. I grew up riding around in the back of my mother's Grand Wagoneer. I want one for ridiculous nostalgia reasons.

I had a friend assist me with installing the new PSC 12:1 steering gear I bought. In exchange I was helping him remove a bunch of toad/tow wiring and fixing electrical connectors. The stock steering pump can barely keep up with this gear. My current plan is to get the upgraded PSC pump kit. There is the option of a smaller 4.5" pulley, but I rather keep this stock pump around as a spare for the LJ.