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$400 Pioneer (Wilbur)


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Removed the drive shaft and measured the main tube: 48 3/8" center to center on the u joints. Then removed the yoke and took it with me to pull-a-part to double check against a 93 YJ they have there.

 

Scored a drive shaft out of a Toyota pick up truck that is about 7" longer than I need, with a good Spicer 1310 joint on each end (1 almost brand new), and after another 30 minutes it had a slip yoke from the 93 YJ Wrangler on it, which is 3/4" longer than Comanche and Cherokee ones, and can go to a much steeper angle before the u-joint binds up on it.

 

$16.89 out the door. ::rockon::

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  • 1 month later...

Update: I got the new to me axle in, decided to go back to the chevy drop shackles for a bit of extra lift so it doesn't look like I'm squatting when loaded up. Put the shock mounts near the top of the axle to allow full droop, while acting as a bump stop before the tires go into the sheetmetal, reusing my old shocks. IIRC they are ment for a Toyota Tundra. Had to get some new brake lines and hoses as well.

 

I have driven a few hundred miles with the new rear drive train and suspension set up and all seems okay. Took a Dremel to the front fenders to finish my final clearance issue, and took her for a shakedown run at JeepSkool yesterday. Didn't really beat on it, and let my 13 year old drive some of the stock trails. Attempted the Ultimate Adventure Mean Green, and went full side into the rock face :fs1: Got some rock rash on the front fender, buckled the door in to the point that the window inside it exploded shooting pieces of glass out the slit in the top of the door, and put a dent in the B pillar. Door handle is busted, mirror came off again (but is no more damaged than it already was), and then as the rear wheel climbed onto a rock, the rear top corner of the bed came up and slammed into a rock overhang. Also have rock rash on the bed side right up to the tail light, but somehow the lens survived. Door will need replaced, everything else will be okay. Or maybe some bondo on the B pillar.

 

Just checked the weather forecast and I will leave the tarp over the door for the week, to go wheeling Cable Creek with the current door. Rain Thursday and Friday, but partly sunny and no rain for the weekend. Next week some time I will get a new door, and will be done wheeling for a few months.

 

Upcoming plans:

Custom built (by me) aux fan controller.

Dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade.

Some sort of front fender flares. Stock? TJ? Tube?

Rear Aussie.

Real tires.

Re-gear to 4.10.

 

Pictures of the damage coming up in a few days. Here's the ones I have of the trip (most were taken by Sarah):

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  • 11 months later...
  • 7 months later...

I did. Mind you, the towels did their job. The part of the wall that scared me did not damage the body anywhere.

 

Mind you, 30 feet later my spotter put my entire driver side into the wall anyway. Pushed my door in so far the window (which was open, or inside the door) exploded with pieces of glass shooting up out of the slit for the window. No, he never spotted for me after that.

 

Now that the body is that badly messed up, any more dents just blend in.

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  • 1 year later...

May of last year. Broke my front Aussie in September, back in action in November, took a few months off and started up again March of this year. Grenaded another entire front axle including the locker again, swapped in a non disconnect from a 96 XJ, two days later I ripped off half the driver side lower control arm mount, folding the other half up like an accordion, replaced it with some 1/4" thick tabs and now the passenger side upper control arm mount (the one part that has allways scared me about non disconnect housings) is starting to tear. Broke a few axle shafts this year, replaced a few bad unit bearings and a front driveshaft, picked up a high pinion kingpin D60 for $200 in a junk yard but need to save up $1500 for wheels and tires before I can even think of putting it under the truck.

 

Last trip out I bent the entire trailer hitch and buckled the one corner of it, so I removed it. Still need to do something for a rear recovery point now. Also removed the remains of the driver side outer bed skin, but haven't had time to do the other side.

 

Plans for this winter are to lose the bed altogether, flip the rear springs around (short side to the back) but keeping the wheel base the same and hacking off a foot or more off the frame. Custom bed just large enough for a fuel cell (or stock tank), tool box, cooler and mount the spare tire back there somewhere as well with room left for a fire extinguisher and a power tank.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, slightly modified on the driver side to mount to/over top of the cast in leaf spring perch. Had a 20% off coupon which made them like $41 or so. And then I had to cut down the heads of the bolts that bolted into the perch down some as they interfered with the spring plate.

 

Don't think I'm doing too badly for being a wood worker....

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maybe it has been discussed, but what are you doing for suspension? keeping the same stuff?

 

Kinda. It works, so why change it. But I'm making upper control arms with rod ends of some sort on both ends instead of a bushing on the axle end. May also get rid of the lower control arm bushings on the axle end.

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Kinda. It works, so why change it. But I'm making upper control arms with rod ends of some sort on both ends instead of a bushing on the axle end. May also get rid of the lower control arm bushings on the axle end.

Where are you going tp mount the drivers UCA without a truss?
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Where are you going tp mount the drivers UCA without a truss?

 

Going to be playing with construction paper to see if I can come up with a truss design that works around (or maybe with) the driver side coil spring mount.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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