Oil Pan Gasket

[pizzaman09]

Last year I changed my rear main seal and oil pan gasket to try to fix the oil leaks I have.  I was under the truck today and see that the Fel Pro 1 piece gasket I used on the oil pan appears to be extruding out at the rear.  

 

Does anybody have an opinion on whether the single piece or multi piece gasket is easier to deal with in install as I'm going to have to do this again.

[eaglescout526]

Oooo I did this recently. So I did the single piece on my MJ years ago. I didn’t have an issue but it’s leaking at the timing cover now which I kind of expected. 
 

I just did the multi piece on my XJ a few weeks ago and found it a little more easy to deal with so long you put a little bit of gasket maker on to keep the pieces in place. 
 

If I was to do such again, I would do the single piece especially on the 6 cyl with some gasket maker to help keep it in place when installing. Though the only thing I don’t like about the single piece is the front timing cover portion but it does cup the lower cover really well. 

[89 MJ]

I did the multi piece on both my MJ and Eagle. No complains, just a damn of RTV in each corner to hold it together. 

[pizzaman09]

2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Oooo I did this recently. So I did the single piece on my MJ years ago. I didn’t have an issue but it’s leaking at the timing cover now which I kind of expected. 
 

I just did the multi piece on my XJ a few weeks ago and found it a little more easy to deal with so long you put a little bit of gasket maker on to keep the pieces in place. 
 

If I was to do such again, I would do the single piece especially on the 6 cyl with some gasket maker to help keep it in place when installing. Though the only thing I don’t like about the single piece is the front timing cover portion but it does cup the lower cover really well. 

I don't really want to have to get the pan past the axle so I'm leaning towards the single piece.  I had a heck of a time trying to get the axle low enough to get the pan out last time.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

For what it's worth, I replaced my valve cover gasket a while back with FelPro and a bit of blue shows in lots of places.  Back when I did it I seem to remember asking here if that was a concern and IIRC someone told me it was not.  That was in Nov 2024 and it seems to be holding.  I don't know how much apples to apples this comparison is, but, again, for what it's worth...

 

There's a few pics in that thread.

[Eagle_SX4]

I have had this happen to me as well where the part under the rear main seal slips out of the oil pan. 

 

When I reinstalled it I used some silicone to glue it to the pan so it wouldn't happen again. It has been holding up well.

[Gjeep]

In that area and the front area I use a gasket sealer to help keep the FelPro in place while installing.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I have been putting off trying this because of the anticipated difficulty getting the pan out/in (and also concern that I won't get the new RMS in place correctly as well). 

 

@pizzaman09, It sounds like you are planning to redo this without actually removing the pan, so just lowering it.  Sounds like it's gonna be difficult to clean the pan and the mating surface.  Also, basically, how do you "lower the axle"?  If you were also replacing the RMS would you still try to do this without fully removing the pan?

 

To the group, how do each of you do the gasket and RMS with regards to the pan, pan out or pan just unbolted and lowered?  

[pizzaman09]

32 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

I have been putting off trying this because of the anticipated difficulty getting the pan out/in (and also concern that I won't get the new RMS in place correctly as well). 

 

@pizzaman09, It sounds like you are planning to redo this without actually removing the pan, so just lowering it.  Sounds like it's gonna be difficult to clean the pan and the mating surface.  Also, basically, how do you "lower the axle"?  If you were also replacing the RMS would you still try to do this without fully removing the pan?

 

To the group, how do each of you do the gasket and RMS with regards to the pan, pan out or pan just unbolted and lowered?  

 

The pan really blocks all access to the RMS unless you get it completely out of the way.  I have the good fortune to have a friend with a two post lift.  We unbolted the sway bar and pried down in the suspension just enough last time to squeak the pan out.  I also removed the starter last time.  

 

I've ordered another Fel Pro 1 piece gasket and plan to follow the tips of others to RTV it in place to prevent it from moving too much.  I will probably pull the pan all the way out again, then again I put the gasket in last time after the pan was positioned back under the engine above the axle.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

3 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

 

The pan really blocks all access to the RMS unless you get it completely out of the way.  I have the good fortune to have a friend with a two post lift.  We unbolted the sway bar and pried down in the suspension just enough last time to squeak the pan out.  I also removed the starter last time.  

 

I've ordered another Fel Pro 1 piece gasket and plan to follow the tips of others to RTV it in place to prevent it from moving too much.  I will probably pull the pan all the way out again, then again I put the gasket in last time after the pan was positioned back under the engine above the axle.

Gotcha.  Thanks.  I don't have that same good fortune, so this is a repair I will probably pass on to the local jeep repair shop.  But I'll go ahead and put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter first and see how much leak I have left before moving forward with the RMS and Pan seals.

[89 MJ]

4 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Gotcha.  Thanks.  I don't have that same good fortune, so this is a repair I will probably pass on to the local jeep repair shop.  But I'll go ahead and put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter first and see how much leak I have left before moving forward with the RMS and Pan seals.

Being that your truck is 2wd, you might have an easier time getting the pan out. 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

6 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

Being that your truck is 2wd, you might have an easier time getting the pan out. 

Ah I did not know this would have that effect.  Well I'll still do the OFA rings first and get a new status.  I suppose I can always remove the bolts and try to wiggle the pan out, and if I fail I can put it back together and take it to the shop.  Of course this experiment is likely to result in a bigger leak but if the plan is the shop right after a re-bolt, maybe that will not be a show stopper.

[89 MJ]

6 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Ah I did not know this would have that effect.  Well I'll still do the OFA rings first and get a new status.  I suppose I can always remove the bolts and try to wiggle the pan out, and if I fail I can put it back together and take it to the shop.  Of course this experiment is likely to result in a bigger leak but if the plan is the shop right after a re-bolt, maybe that will not be a show stopper.

I cannot say that for 100% certainty, I'd want someone with another 2wd to confirm. Otherwise you could absolutely try it like you said. 

[rokinn]

On 3/27/2026 at 1:55 PM, 89 MJ said:

I cannot say that for 100% certainty, I'd want someone with another 2wd to confirm. Otherwise you could absolutely try it like you said. 

I don't remember the exact geometry configuration when I took my oil pan off but it wasn't too terribly difficult.  Body supported on jack stands and engine supported with jack under transmission IIRC.  Might take a try or two to get it just right.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

6 hours ago, rokinn said:

I don't remember the exact geometry configuration when I took my oil pan off but it wasn't too terribly difficult.  Body supported on jack stands and engine supported with jack under transmission IIRC.  Might take a try or two to get it just right.

So you jacked the engine up to make more maneuvering room between the engine and things that live below the pan?  I generally put my jack stands at the front axle, does that count as body in this case?

[DirtyComanche]

To get the pan out you need to jack up the frame/body and set it on your jackstands and let the axle hang down.  You may need to take the shocks off to get enough space, I don't recall, but with a 2"~ lift (and the longer shocks you'd have with it) it's very doable.  Just loosen/undo the top mount on them if you need more space, then it's easy to put back together by just putting the weight back on the axles and tightening the top mount back up.  You should not need to jack up the engine, leave it supported by the motor and trans mounts.

 

I've personally always had good luck with the one piece pan gaskets.

[AZJeff]

5 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

To get the pan out you need to jack up the frame/body and set it on your jackstands and let the axle hang down.  You may need to take the shocks off to get enough space, I don't recall, but with a 2"~ lift (and the longer shocks you'd have with it) it's very doable.  Just loosen/undo the top mount on them if you need more space, then it's easy to put back together by just putting the weight back on the axles and tightening the top mount back up.  You should not need to jack up the engine, leave it supported by the motor and trans mounts.

 

I've personally always had good luck with the one piece pan gaskets.

With factory ride height suspension, you will need to undo the lower front shock attaching points to allow the axle to drop further and allow the oil pan to come free.  
 

Once you have 3 inches or more of suspension lift, dropping the front shock mounts is not needed to get the pan out, but it makes it easier the more axle compliance you can get

[pizzaman09]

Good information on the shocks, I'll have to do that.  I had not done that when I did this last, I wasn't sure what part of the suspension was preventing the movement of the axle down.  I'll definitely try that this time.

[Eagle_SX4]

If you need some more room. It will also help if you loosen the body side control arm bolts. Don't take them out just loosen them about 1-2 turns. When finished just make sure to tighten them while the truck is back on the ground or at least with the full weight on the axle. That way the bushings are not in a constant bind.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I got under there today to look around.  It definitely looks like I have a leak at the front of the oil pan.  I don't know if one can tell at this point, I certainly can't, if the leak is pan gasket, RMS or both.  I also looked around at what else might be in the way, and I see hard lines actually anchored to some bolts that otherwise appear to hold the pan in place.  Didn't trace them good enough to be sure what they are yet, but they will for sure be in the way.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

It also looks like my drain plug might be leaking.  Perhaps a new washer is needed.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Oh BTW  @pizzaman09 I didn't intend to hijack your post!  But the topic seems to still apply, or at least it is closely related 

[89 MJ]

49 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

I also looked around at what else might be in the way, and I see hard lines actually anchored to some bolts that otherwise appear to hold the pan in place.  Didn't trace them good enough to be sure what they are yet, but they will for sure be in the way.

Probably transmission cooler lines

[pizzaman09]

1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Oh BTW  @pizzaman09 I didn't intend to hijack your post!  But the topic seems to still apply, or at least it is closely related 

No issue!

 

I'm actually questioning if I need to change my pan gasket like I had claimed.  A few weeks ago I modified my vacuum line between the intake and valve cover to have less restriction.  I had oil leaking from all three valve cover ports.  Now the valve cover is dry on top and there is far less of possibly no oil leaking from under the truck.  I'm still awaiting all of the latent oil to stop dripping from where it was stored like the transmission cross member and transfer case skid plate.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

56 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

No issue!

 

A few weeks ago I modified my vacuum line between the intake and valve cover to have less restriction.  I had oil leaking from all three valve cover ports.  Now the valve cover is dry on top and there is far less of possibly no oil leaking from under the truck...

Did you put any details of this mod here somewhere?  The plastic hoses below going to the left were new 6 months ago when I replaced valve cover gasket and also the hard plastic line at the back of the VC, and I have no idea where this crud is coming from.  Maybe I need your mod!