joeCor Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 I was replacing my TPS, I removed the top screw and the tps fell off. The bottom screw had no head and a small stud left. No clue how long it’s been like that. I tried pb blaster, heat and needle nose vice grips but wouldn’t come out. Now it’s flush. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 I assume you have removed the throttle body to get better access to the broken screw, as that’s the only way you are going to properly fix the attaching screw hole. The best fix will be to drill out the old screw and install a “Helicoil” to repair the damaged threads. They sell Helicoil repair kits that include the actual Helicoil, plus the requisite drill and tap to install the Helicoil. To install the Helicoil, you will need a drill press, or at the very least, a bench vise to hold the throttle body while using a hand drill to drill out the screw and tap the hole for the Helicoil. Start by using a prick punch to make a dimple as close as possible to the dead center of the exist screw. Then, using a drill bit smaller than the minor diameter of the broken screw, drill down into the screw as straight as possible. Then increase the drill size and repeat until you have the correct hole size for the Helicoil. Then tap the hole using the tap in the kit, and install the Helicoil. now you throttle body is repaired. All you will need is two replacement screws to attach the TPS. I also recommend you use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws, so they don’t bind up in the holes in the aluminum throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Replacement tb from the junkyard would also be an option. Also there are aftermarket ones a available. I would at least give the repair a shot, before spending the coin on those though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Getting a junkyard unit is certainly a possibility. Even then, they may require “restoration” before installation on your vehicle. I am a guy who normally tries to fix stuff before I rush out to get a replacement, and that is why I suggested the Helicoil approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 I'm definitely not against the idea of helicoil repair. I just know my luck with things like this. Id end up breaking 4 drill bits and wasting 2 days trying to fix the old one. Only to give up in frustration and buy a junkyard unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 It's a tiny screw but if you are talented enough with a mig welder you could weld a small nut to the head and try to back the screw out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 With the TB out and locked down somehow to your workbench, you might try an easy out extractor tool. If it doesn't work it's at least a non-destructive first attempt. I also wonder if you follow @AZJeff's drilling procedure if it might loosen the stuck bolt just a hair and give the easy out a better chance? Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 If you can find a junkyard unit and do a “restoration/refurbishment”, it might be the best solution. Others that are RENIX experts might know: are the what differences exist (if any) between RENIX TB’s and those used on later engines in the MJ/XJ family? Can a later throttle body be used, because if so, then the field of junkyard replacements expands a bunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeCor Posted May 26 Author Share Posted May 26 Thanks for all the replies. First step is trying to get the damn TBI out. Having a hard time getting to two of the mounting bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 There are a few on EBAY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White_Comanche Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Would small screw extractors like this work? Full disclosure, I have not read every reply in depth, however I have read your first post a few times. Depending on how accessible your remaining thread is, and the size, I think something like this might work. Perhaps you won't need to do the Helicoil thing with this. https://centurydrill.com/products/damaged-screw-remover-4-pc-set-0-1-2-3-spiral-style/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 54 minutes ago, White_Comanche said: Would small screw extractors like this work? Full disclosure, I have not read every reply in depth, however I have read your first post a few times. Depending on how accessible your remaining thread is, and the size, I think something like this might work. Perhaps you won't need to do the Helicoil thing with this. https://centurydrill.com/products/damaged-screw-remover-4-pc-set-0-1-2-3-spiral-style/ Yeah, this is what I was referring to. I notice those are made to be usable with an impact driver. I didn't have an impact driver when I used these things before so I'm not sure, but it might be a good option if you have one available since the driver's hammer action might give you a little better odds. Just make sure the extractor has a good grip before you try to turn it and press with a firm grip and pressure inward to keep it from just bouncing loose. Letting some penetrating oil soak in for maybe 10-15 minutes seems like a good idea but then clean the oil off where the extractor is trying to grab, hopefully that make sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 14 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: There are a few on EBAY I think he has a 2.5L? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 8 hours ago, Pete M said: I think he has a 2.5L? Oops, I guess I was thinking 4L for some reason. Don't see any on EBAY for 2.5L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Using screw extractors on small screws can be risky. The extractors are very hard (they have to be to “bite” into the broken screw. That also makes them very BRITTLE, and prone to snapping off if not twisted precisely. And once you have one of those broken off inside the screw, you are in a world of hurt. On small stuff like TB screws, drilling them out and retapping for a Helicoil is less risky that a screw extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeCor Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 Got the tbi out and goi g to try to remove the screw today. Can anyone tell me what this sensor is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GonzoTheGreat Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 That's the intake air temperature sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeCor Posted Monday at 02:46 AM Author Share Posted Monday at 02:46 AM Didn’t want to start a new topic if I don’t gotta but can any one tell me what this is and why it seems like something is missing? Also near it are these wires that are all melted together. I’ll include a pic of the harness it goes to in the passenger side of the engine bay and point out the harness it goes to under the truck. I’d appreciate any info👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted Monday at 02:30 PM Share Posted Monday at 02:30 PM got a hydraulic clutch? looks like a bleeder fitting for some type of hydraulic... certainly not electrical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted Monday at 03:49 PM Share Posted Monday at 03:49 PM Two of the wire go to the reverse lights. It looks like there are more than 2 wires in the loom, thou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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