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'87 Pioneer Longbed


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16 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

Well I got the doors painted today. But I won't be able to paint anything else this year. It will be to cold starting next week. I will assemble the doors tomorrow and get them back on the truck.

 

I built a rotisserie for the doors that allowed me to paint them both at the same time. It worked really well.

Doors look really good, when you take the doors off the rotisserie add a picture of it, I think I'll be doing my doors at some point, I was thinking about a color change and going to a solid white, the doors and the jambs I don't think would be that big of a problem, but I didn't want to "strip" the dash out, under the hood wouldn't be that big a deal either, a lot of work, but under the hood does not scare me like taking the dash apart:dunno:and all the "brittle" stuff:confused:

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41 minutes ago, M.T.Hands said:

Doors look really good, when you take the doors off the rotisserie add a picture of it, I think I'll be doing my doors at some point, I was thinking about a color change and going to a solid white, the doors and the jambs I don't think would be that big of a problem, but I didn't want to "strip" the dash out, under the hood wouldn't be that big a deal either, a lot of work, but under the hood does not scare me like taking the dash apart:dunno:and all the "brittle" stuff:confused:

Yes I can take pictures of my door mounting setup tomorrow.

 

39 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Wow, that looks excellent! :drool:

Thanks it has been a lot more work than I first thought.

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Here are some pictures of the set up I used to paint the doors.IMG_20241013_151835568_HDR.jpg.f2fc7f90b4362df04e21055f7de9bbf4.jpg383488978_IMG_20241013_1518510322.jpg.088a7408e8c4b496c23f3d14d13afd7c.jpg

 

I used a worx portable worktable but this design would work with any saw horse. You just need a 1/2" lag bolt drilled into a board mounted on each side of the saw horse. Then cut the head off and use it as the pivot for the doors. As for the doors I used some of the existing holes and used some 1/4" lag bolts to attach some 2x4 boards. I drilled a 1/2" hole in them for the pivot. The extra blocks are just for support.

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3 hours ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

Here are some pictures of the set up I used to paint the doors.I used a worx portable worktable but this design would work with any saw horse. You just need a 1/2" lag bolt drilled into a board mounted on each side of the saw horse. Then cut the head off and use it as the pivot for the doors. As for the doors I used some of the existing holes and used some 1/4" lag bolts to attach some 2x4 boards. I drilled a 1/2" hole in them for the pivot. The extra blocks are just for support.

I've used sawhorses with a board across, and I've used barrels, I always like the idea of a rotisserie for a complete body, but have always walked around doors, the thought to hang them has entered my mind:confused:, I like what you did, and your doors turned out great:thumbsup:

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6 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

This is going to look so good when it’s done. I’m excited. 

Thanks. Unfortunately the bed will have to wait for spring to be painted. It is getting to cold to do paint anymore this year. Chance of snow on Friday morning.

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51 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

Got the doors back on the truck.IMG_20241015_190523997.jpg.570f7042f3ad9ca9bcabd72e1e435eec.jpg

 

@schardeinThanks again for the antenna base. 

 

Next up is the front fenders flares. I am not going to run the air dam so I need to modify the front of them to accommodate for that.

That door to panel alignment...:drool:

I'm totally Jealous!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I installed a rear sway bar following the guidance of HOrnbrod R.I.P.

It makes a huge difference in how the truck drives on the street. Definitely worth it if you have even thought about it.IMG_20241102_194939845.jpg.72a1e8b0321d139bf8106ef79673c880.jpg

 

Barnes4wd sells weld on TJ rear sway bar mounts for about $10. I used those and a WJ bar from the junkyard for $30. By far the lowest cost and best upgrade I have done so far. I need to shorten the links about 1.5 inches then it will be perfect.

 

Also I added some XJ add a leafs I got from the thrift store. Brand new unused for $10 each. With the original shackles I am sitting about 9.5 inches frame to axle. Much better than 8.25 after my Generalspring springs sagged. Will probably do some JKS shackles soon to hopefully get another 3/4 inch lift in the back. I am going to throw away the Chevy drop shackles I was running. The rode terrible and caused death wobble on the rear axle.

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