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89’ Pioneer MJ Barn Find


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Finally put all the bits and pieces together (mainly plastic parts for the bumper etc) and found time to throw it on today. While the new to me bumper isn’t perfect I massaged as much of the dents and dings out as I could and said it was good enough. If this was a show truck I would have chopped cut and rewelded several areas on this thing but for my beater it’s definitely a good improvement. Nice to have the hitch finally installed too!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/5/2022 at 6:15 PM, oleskool said:

Power windows here we come. Couldn’t pass up a set of doors off an 87 Cherokee.  Now to figure out to dismantle them and swap everything over to my doors. 
 

 

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Those are xj waggy doors. If your heart isn't set on them, you might be able to sell off the outer trim, cards, handles, and switches to buy another set of doors and more. Some of that stuff is extremely hard to find and highly sought.

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19 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

Those are xj waggy doors. If your heart isn't set on them, you might be able to sell off the outer trim, cards, handles, and switches to buy another set of doors and more. Some of that stuff is extremely hard to find and highly sought.

I kept all the hard to find parts just in case. I have the rear doors too. Using all the parts of the power windows in my current doors. Everything else will go to a good home I hope. Also considering taking the power windows and swapping them. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well now that I’ve finally got sometime to work on the truck figured I would clean up the front bumper to match the refreshed rear bumper. As expected every nut clip broke when removing the bumper so I had to spend sometime getting all the hardware out. I couldn’t find M10 but clips locally so I grabbed some M8s from the auto parts store along with some M8 zinc coated flange head bolts. Worked like a charm when putting the bumper back on the frame. I’ll add some upgraded fog lights in the next week but for now here she is. Next project will be the lower window swap!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got tired of seeing my CTS read 246 on the REM. I removed the air box and it gave me enough access to get to the CTS, O2 and Knox sensor. To my surprise the CTS connector was just hanging with broken wires. It wasn’t like that the last time I went through the truck etc. So o decided to refresh all the wiring and reroute the CTs to the goose neck. I had a 94 HO goose neck sitting on the shelf for a motor I’m building so I grabbed it and got to work. I pulled the wiring and repaired the harness side connector to the CTS. This wasn’t easy. The pics show you why lol. I split out the CTs wiring so I could run it up to the goose neck, retaped and protected both wire looms. Luckily I snagged a NOS CTS off eBay for a nice price and used that on the goose neck. I left the old CTS in the block to plug the hole. I attempted to remove it but it wasn’t budging. Bolted everything back together. Topped off the coolant and boom!  We now have accurate coolant temp data going to the computer!

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59 minutes ago, Pete M said:

yeah, those aren't bluetooth sensors.  :grinyes: 

Haha tell me about it. I’m guessing the computer has some logic coded in that says if it does not see a signal from the CTS it just counts the water temp up to 246 and uses that as the temp input?!?!…. The REM would show it counting up by 1 degree every couple seconds until it maxed out at 246 🤷‍♂️ 

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27 minutes ago, oleskool said:

Haha tell me about it. I’m guessing the computer has some logic coded in that says if it does not see a signal from the CTS it just counts the water temp up to 246 and uses that as the temp input?!?!…

 

REM shows the fault, but somewhere in the ECU software, reading will switch over to Air Temperature Sensor (MAT).

See NOTE (highlighted in yellow):

 

WARM UP MODE OPEN LOOP.pdf

 

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2 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

 

REM shows the fault, but somewhere in the ECU software, reading will switch over to Air Temperature Sensor (MAT).

See NOTE (highlighted in yellow):

 

WARM UP MODE OPEN LOOP.pdf

 

Nice. That explains a lot. I knew it had to have logic coded somewhere to either accept the high reading or switch so the engine would keep running somewhat correctly. Thanks for the info. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Decided to dive in and see if I could track down the location of a small water leak from the corner of my back glass. Digging out the seal was tedious to say the least. 20+ years of crud etc held it in pretty good. Got it peeled back and poured water to find the spot where the urethane came unglued. Found a little rust spot I had to doctor first. Got everything cleaned out, touched up the paint and used a flowable silicone to seal the crack. So far so good, so hopefully it holds up when it rains later this week.

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while I was waiting I threw in a set of led reverse bulbs and damn these things put out some light!  I can finally see backing out of my driveway in the mornings lol. 
 

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, jpnjake said:

Wow that looks awesome, I love the blue. What did you use to paint the console 

I use SEM Paint Shadow Blue is the color. It’s a color match for the later model blue interior. It looks great in person. 

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