oleskool

I had a hard time finding 3/4” to 5/8” molded hose quickly. My plan is to go in and replace the spliced hoses with molded 90 degree 3/4” to 5/8” silicone heater hose but this gets me back up and running for now.

Well had some time to fix the coolant leak I’ve been searching for. I could always smell it but it hid itself well. I had to piece it together and find a hard to find connector. So far she’s doing great after the test drive. You can see after god knows how many years the metal diverter t was rusted almost through.

That’s awesome. Thank you for the help. Saves me a lot of fab time. I think I will use this one as a mock up template for one I make eventually but it can hold me over while I find the energy 😂

It’s definitely worth the elbow grease it takes to clean them up!

Yeah. That’s one option but figured I would see if I can buy one. I was planning to tig one out of Stainless but buying is easier 😂

Well the ole girl has smelled like coolant for about 2 months but I could never track down the leak. Finally found it today. The metal T coming from the upper heater core hose / reservoir is almost rusted through. Now to find a replacement.

Hey. Looking for a new heater core / coolant reservoir connector. This is the one opposite of the control valve. I’ve been tracking a coolant leak for months and found this guy to be the culprit. Thanks for any help.

I pulled mine out of a barn 3 years ago, spent around $2k in parts to replace and rework hoses, clutch, brakes, fuel system etc to make sure it was good to go. Been daily driving her for over 20k miles and having a blast 😊

Haven’t posted much with life going on. Put the ole girl to work with 2k lbs or top soil for the yard 😊

Well got out of the truck last night but when I shut the door the brake lights came on 😂. Here’s the culprit….. still a pain in the @$$ to replace. I don’t bend like that 😢

Looking for a long bed topper around the Southeast if possible.

Awesome. Just let me know how much. Also you mentioned the regulator? Is that the cruise control box or is there another piece I need to check as well?

I did test it. It’s shot. I was sending the plug pic you requested.

Hey sorry for the long reply time. Life happens. How do you test the regulator? For the speed sensor I hooked it up to my oscilloscope and checked the signal being generated. Here are pics of the connector under the hood.

This. And make sure you have the correct hose clamps made for rubber lines / fuel lines.

No mine is factory installed kit. It started acting up last year where it would just keep climbing in speed. It then worked correctly one last time and died. I checked the speed sensor and didn’t get a signal so I am assuming the surging and random climb in speed was from the sensor slowly dying.

I’ll have to look again. It’s off an 89’ but don’t recall the connector type.

Just like the title says. Looking for a good used part to get my cruise control back up and running.

That’s my plan 😂 Brand New MJ 😊

Well the saga didn’t end there. While burping the system I had a coolant flush T crack so those got replaced too 😂. I’m close to having a new truck at the point 🤦‍♂️

Now with all this it was time for reassembly. I did the work over the course of a week. It rained a few days and I had to wait for the pump to show up. After all this I did a full coolant flush, new fan switch in the radiator, updated the alternator power wires, changed the oil and redid the orings in the filter housing. Hopefully I’m done wrenching for a bit and I can get back to enjoying her!

Well now that I have the front end disassembled why not pull the T Case and replace the output seal for the trans…. What’s one more thing at this point 😂 not shown is a custom 3D printed tool to seat the seal 2mm deep into the bore and keep it even. I’ve had a hell of a time with these seals. They never want to stay in place.

So new PSP and lines it was along with a new PSP pulley as the old one was cracked lol. I also got a chance to add a new tool to the shop since I didn’t own a PSP pulley remover / installer. Let me tell you those 35 year old PS Lines were a B to remove. The new return line wasn’t exactly the shape it needed to be but will definitely work fine.

While I was disassembling the entire front end along with some very pesky skid plate bolts I finally found my coolant leak. So new radiator it is. I stayed with the closed system because I have had zero issues with it. While the fan clutch was off I figured why not swap that out since it’s probably a 1989 vintage as well. I finally got everything out and noticed high pressure line and Power Steering Pump had seen better days too 🤦‍♂️

Been out just enjoying the Comanche for a while. I do have the power windows and wiring harness ready to go in the truck but like I said, I have just been driving her and enjoying the nostalgia. All that was going great until last Wednesday. I had something going on about a hour away and drove the truck. I get there and everything is fine. I head out about 10:30 PM and all is good. The ole girl is turning 75 mph down the highway at ease. I should have known it was going to well 😂. About 20 minutes from home I notice the REM voltage dropping. Great, I’ve been here before…. I keep trucking knowing I have enough juice to get home…. I hope. I limp her to the driveway and hear something that sounds like the flywheel bolts are all out and bouncing around in the bell housing. I turn it off and slowly fire it up again…. Same noise with a loud belt squeal…. Come out the next day and drop the belt to find the 89’ vintage alternator locked the F up 🤦‍♂️. If you can’t tell the support bearing decided to leave the chat 😂