BizarroStormy Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 I finally decided to bite the bullet and replace my engine due to it suddenly consuming a lot of oil (3 quarts every month of daily driving). I am planning on painting the engine bay, replacing the water pump, and replacing the outer seals on my transmission. I was wondering if there was anything else I should replace or do while the engine is out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 what are your compression numbers? mine liked to spew the oil out while driving, but would barely drip while idling. turns out my RMS was failing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizarroStormy Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 Just replaced my rear main seal and it never drips a drop on my driveway. Blue smoke has started to come out the back on hard acceleration. I have ridiculous amounts of blow-by and my air filter is soaked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 that doesn't sound encouraging. It's pretty easy to grab the comp numbers though. I'd probably still do that so I could see if it's across the board or just one failed ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Me to. Refresh everything, inspect and clean electrics and grounds, replace wiring for bigger ones. Brake lines easy to get to now as well..peace of mind being the main goal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 or it could be a bad valve/seal allowing oil to drip in to the chamber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Have you performed a compression test? leak down test? These would help ID what's wrong before you start an amputation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 I'd replace the harmonic balance , possibly the timing chain and front seal. Also, with 'Blow-by', I have found the valve cover seal plays a part in it. Also, I'd do the Cruiser 54 modifications to the oil towers in the valve cover. I use the Felpro silicone valve cover gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Also, I don't think it is much money to have the head reconditioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizarroStormy Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 I know it is bad rings/cylinders the crank case is highly pressurized it even blows oil out the dipstick at times, this thing has 225k miles and was absolutely abused by previous owners. The amount of sludge and garbage I found in the oil pan and pickup was absurd. The engine feels anemic even after I re-geared to 4.56. I will check compression numbers for everyone's curiosity when I get home, but I have already ordered a new engine from JEGS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 On a new motor, I’d do plugs, plug wires, a cap and rotor, a CPS, and maybe a coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizarroStormy Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Surprising results for the compression tests, 120 - 135 on all cylinders cold. Don't have the tools for a leak down test so I guess I will never know. Maybe tolerances loosen up when it gets hot? Found some serious white buildup on my #1 spark plug, and light buildup on the rest. Only thing I could think that caused that was my throttle position sensor was broken/stuck for the better part of a year (minimal driving) which caused the computer to try and run the engine WOT when the throttle was closed. So looks like new wires and plugs for the new engine. Rotor cap and coil are already newish (2 years old). Good call on the CPS mine is a bit crusty from close encounters with the exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 Yikes that plug looks terrible! What cylinder is that from? Do they all look that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 3 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Yikes that plug looks terrible! What cylinder is that from? Do they all look that way? I believe he said that was #1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 23 hours ago, BizarroStormy said: Maybe tolerances loosen up when it gets hot? it must be done with a warm engine, but in any case, the engine needs rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 A warm engine typically has higher compression numbers due to the differences in the coefficient between the cylinder walls and the piston and rings material. With those plugs, I’d be looking more into a cylinder head issue though. Pull the head and see what it all looks like then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now