Jrwhite3230 Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 I have a 1989jeep comanche that has that death wobble and I’m trying to find where it is comming from ? I’m certain that it’s comming from several components but my question is what would temporarily fix the death wobble mostly ? Should I buy the track bar or just replace the bushings in the one I have Which is stock Oem ,or replace other parts of my front end ? I. Stuck in spur Texas as and there isn’t much out here thanks for any reply !
75sv1 Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 If your track bar is lose, I'd start there. It's not fun driving with a lose or a track bar not attached.
Jrwhite3230 Posted October 3, 2019 Author Posted October 3, 2019 No it’s not 4wdrive it’s all stock and straight
89 MJ Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 11 minutes ago, jrwhite3230 said: No it’s not 4wdrive it’s all stock and straight I wasn’t sure if it was 2wd and lifted. Maybe your control arm bushings are junk.
Jeep Driver Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 2W or 4W......doesn't matter. I would start with the track bar. I assume you are going to drive it home to FL? If the TB does not solve it, move to your steering sector/links. TR ends, drag link and TB should run you less than $300 and can all be replaced with common tools. Any box store should be able to get you parts next day. Get it home then look to uppers and lowers and bushings etc....
rokinn Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 Check to make sure the mount holes for the track bar on the axle end are not wallowed out. If they are you can have a washer welded to the forward side of the attachment pretty easily. I believe it's a metric size but don't quote me. 10.9 hardness shouldn't be hard to find. Make sure the frame side is cranked down well also. That side can get wallowed out as well. You should be able to crank it to spec or close to even if it is wallowed. You may need to add another nut below the castle nut to get the castle nut up to cotter pin level. You can take the TB off and check it for damping resistance (bushing inspection included) to make sure you're not buying one unnecessarily while the anchor points being crapped out are the real problem. Not that replacing it isn't a bad idea. Check the u-joints on the drive shaft also. They may be adding a heavy shimmy into the death wobble effect.
75sv1 Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 Check the steering gear box is bolted on tight. Also, there is a factory aluminum brace. You might upgrade it with an aftermarket steel one. Also, see if the gearbox is adjusted correctly. A lot of other stuff can cause this. And when it happens it takes other parts with it. Check the frame by on the drivers side between the Tackbar mount and the gear box. Edit, that should be 'check the frame for crack(s)....' . Pete M's advice is good. Need to check everything. Wheel bearings etc.
Pete M Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 hold on a sec, before you run off and start spending dough, grab a friend and have them quickly saw the steering wheel back and forth from 10-2 o'clock while you examine the front for slop in the steering, track bar and ball joints. then jack up the front tires one at a time and shake it violently with your hands at 6 and 12 and then 9 and 3 o'clock. Examine your control arm bushings for excessive rot or even missing rubber chunks. report back with your findings.
omega_rugal Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 if nothing is loose, check the steering box play, mine had Death wobble until i tightened the steering box...
Jrwhite3230 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 18 hours ago, Jeep Driver said: 2W or 4W......doesn't matter. I would start with the track bar. I assume you are going to drive it home to FL? If the TB does not solve it, move to your steering sector/links. TR ends, drag link and TB should run you less than $300 and can all be replaced with common tools. Any box store should be able to get you parts next day. Get it home then look to uppers and lowers and bushings etc.... Yes I’ll be heading back to Tampa soon as I get this front end resolved and what you just said is great advice it’s what I assumed but being carfull to what I spend money on in my situation is a detriment to my situation I’m xtremly limited money wise and I’m far away from home where at least i know my way around ! I am homeless living In my comanche literally ! It’s kept me dry !
Jrwhite3230 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 21 hours ago, 75sv1 said: If your track bar is lose, I'd start there. It's not fun driving with a lose or a track bar not attached. Thanks mate I’ll do that much apreaciate any advice !
Jrwhite3230 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 13 hours ago, 75sv1 said: Check the steering gear box is bolted on tight. Also, there is a factory aluminum brace. You might upgrade it with an aftermarket steel one. Also, see if the gearbox is adjusted correctly. A lot of other stuff can cause this. And when it happens it takes other parts with it. Check the frame by on the drivers side between the Tackbar mount and the gear box. Will do and thanks man for the help
Pete M Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 oh, and look for a crack in the frame right between the steering box an the track bar. It's happened on several MJs. be incredibly careful if you resort to tightening the steering box itself. If you over-do it, you can ruin it.
yxmj Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 You might want to start with your front wheels/tires......is the rubber healthy.....are they balanced?
Jrwhite3230 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Posted October 4, 2019 Yeah I’m sure they need balancing also the entire front end probably needs replacing because nothing. Has been serviced e erything is stock from when it was first bought in 89 you know like bush8ngs top and lower ball joints steeering pit,an arm ect ! But to resolve the death wobble as quickly and efficiently without blowing money where it won’t resolve it as a quick fix isn’t helping me ! I’ll probably start with the most obvious like the track bar and then just start replacing bushings. and also the ball joints I’ll even check the bearings too for slagg basically anything that moves or shakes while I turn the shell from lock to lock is going to be replaced. It’s all I can do and hope to hell it isn’t a waist of money and time I won’t stupid my way.can't afford even stupid :)
AZJeff Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 Pete M is giving you the most methodical approach to finding the source of the DW. It's less expensive than just hanging parts at random until you find the culprit. When you follow his suggestion and have your friend saw the steering wheel, it sometimes helps to place your hand around each steering joint. That way you can feel actual motion between the two parts of the joint. You can also do this at each end of the track bar. It's kind of hard to inspect the bushings on the OEM control arms, so they might need to be removed (one at a time) and visually inspected and replaced as needed, but I would do that as a LAST step.
yxmj Posted October 4, 2019 Posted October 4, 2019 I do not want to point out the obvious to you.....but the balancing of the tires is the place to start.....you can change every bushing and the track bar....put on new ball joints wheel bearings ....shocks.....rebuild the whole front end.....if the wheels are out of balance it will still shake......maybe since you say your budget is limited you should start there... IMHO
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