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plug swap gone bad, really bad


mjeff87
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Probably, yeah.  But at this point I'm pretty much committed to pulling the head.  I've known all along that it's the right thing that needs to be done.  I was just trying to avoid it because it's such a PITA, but it's gotta be done.

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...I’ve heard of this happening, and routinely run mine for 5 minutes or so while doing the light disassembly to get to the coils.

 

only pull plugs with engine at operating temp when the plugs are recessed.

 

as far as removal of threaded section,

 

put out the rest of the plugs in, disconnect the injector for that cylinder, drop in the rest of the coils, and run it until warm.  Then try the extractor

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On 9/10/2019 at 1:34 PM, mjeff87 said:

and that's a big old NOPE sandwich......

 

guy texted me back and said the shop wanted $100 for a "diagnostic" on the crunchy 1st gear shift.  He doesn't want to spend any money on it to find out what's wrong and offered $100 off his asking price if I'd buy it tomorrow.  All new clutch stuff is in and good/bled to death so none of that is the problem.

 

I suspect that the 1st gear synchro (at least) is dead or on it's way to dead, and he already knows that but just not admitting it to me.  I've been doing some google-fu on that trans/model year and it seems it's not an uncommon issue.  The next model year GM changed the trans to a different model (which is a big flag to me, lol).  Some owners said a fluid change to a good ATF like Royal Purple can "help" the hard shift problems, but I don't want/need another project on my hands right now.

 

Guy is coming to Richmond on Friday for something, and said he'd bring back my deposit so I didn't have to waste another trip up there.  At least that's good.  The search continues.

 

That was a mid continent vs getrag issue I imagine.  Same issues as the mini coopers had...same trans in same year ranges

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I got the head off finally.  Took me 4 hours Saturday and a couple more hours yesterday morning.  What an incredible PITA job.  Not "hard", but there were a couple challenges to figure out, courtesy of the design engineers at Chrysler:brickwall:  (why, oh why, would you zip-tie a wiring harness to the back of the head, right against the firewall, with absolutely NO way of getting to it to undo it so you can actually move the head once you unbolt it?????)

 

Here's a couple pics of the pertinent bits.  All the stuff on the table I set up is what you have to remove to get the head out.  LOL.  It probably would have been easier to just swap the whole engine out......

 

Special shout out to Pat, who gave me some really good tips on this job too.  Much appreciated brother:beerchug:  I owe ya a big one.

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Head is at the machine shop getting the plug threads out (and the upper timing chain guide torx bolt that I stripped trying to remove lol).  Should have it back sometime this week, all cleaned up and pretty.  I need to deep clean most of what I removed (intake manifold and timing cover mostly), then buy a bunch of new stuff for reinstall.  Head gasket, head bolts, intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, fuel injector o rings, both radiator hoses, a couple PCV hoses that were split, and some of those little red plastic fuel injector electrical connector "locks".....every one of them crumbled when I pried them up to disconnect the injectors.  Probably a dealer-only item, lol.

 

Once I get all that, I'll start putting it all back together.  My goal is Thanksgiving....I'm not in a rush (since I have the focus) and want to take my time getting it all reassembled.

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9 hours ago, mjeff87 said:

and some of those little red plastic fuel injector electrical connector "locks".....every one of them crumbled when I pried them up to disconnect the injectors.  Probably a dealer-only item, lol.

 

Want me to check that? Course navigating the Liberty 3.7L will be new for me.

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1 hour ago, buxmj said:

Wow Jeff that is a lot of work, I remember you talking about this at the pow wow, didn't realize it had gotten this intense, good luck, looks like you are on the up swing.

 

Buck. 

 

I've got more hours into this engine already than any other jeep I've owned so far, lol.  Its ridiculous the amount of stuff you have to take off just to get the head(s) off.

 

I *heart* pushrod engines....they are so much simpler:laugh:

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1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said:

Want me to check that? Course navigating the Liberty 3.7L will be new for me.

 

Sure man, if you can.  I'm guessing they are pretty standard across chryco engines of that era.  If you can source them, let me know and I'll send you some $$$ for your time and trouble:beerchug:

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3 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

 

Sure man, if you can.  I'm guessing they are pretty standard across chryco engines of that era.  If you can source them, let me know and I'll send you some $$$ for your time and trouble:beerchug:

Consider it done. Always wanted an excuse to peruse the liberty catalogue. 

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8 hours ago, Pete M said:

when all is said and done it looks like you will have eliminated all the usual failure points and be driving it for many years to come. :L: 

 

Thats the plan, lol.  Although I've grown quite fond of the second Focus....I'm not going to get rid of it once I get the KJ fixed (that was the original plan).  It's a fun little car, and gets about 2X the mileage (and it's a 5-speed:brows:).  I'll just keep it as a spare vehicle to drive when the weather is not bad.  Which in VA is about 9 months out of the year.:laugh:

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On a side note....it turns out that Ford Focus starters really don't like to get wet.  I sprayed down the whole engine compartment with the garden hose today and soaked the starter.  Went to move it and it cranked for about a second and then quit.  It blew the 20A maxi fuse for the engine circuit.  I didn't have a spare, and my wife is out of town so I was stranded in my driveway.  Used my leaf blower to dry the engine off then made a jumper wire up to replace the blown fuse so I could get down to the part store to get a new fuse.  Mission accomplished.

 

Necessity is the mother of invention.

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I forgot to mention, when I was busy at the engine disassembly party:laugh: two of my intake manifold bolts were not even finger tight.  Not sure how or why they backed out, or how long they've been not tight, but I'll make sure they're all snugged up on reinstall.  Maybe a dot of blue locktite on each just to make sure.

 

I dropped the head off at the machine shop (about 5 miles from my house) late yesterday afternoon.  They just called me and said that it was all ready to be picked up.  I wasn't expecting them to get it fixed THAT quickly, lol.  $100, which I'm happy to pay the man, I'm picking it up after work today.  I might even get to start putting it all back together this weekend.  My back is absolutely killing me from getting it all out (leaning over the fender and grill working inside the engine compartment.

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25 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

two of my intake manifold bolts were not even finger tight.

The hemi’s do the same thing. Customers always come in complaining about a rattle when the engine is cold and the bolts back themselves out. Sounds like a common Chrysler Vproblem. 

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42 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

Jeff, just put a pork butt on the Smokey Joe, fill the cooler with Bud Light and you'll be done in no time!

 

Got plenty of Bud Lites....haven't smoked a butt in a couple months.  Maybe a good idea for Saturday. :beerchug:

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^^^why, oh why, do design engineers do stupid crap like that?:brickwall:

 

Started gathering new parts for reassembly this weekend.  Dropped the timing cover off at the machine shop today to have them extract the stupid coolant bleed screw (which is stripped and seeping coolant) removed and also to hot tank it to clean it.  Got a timing cover seal set (Felpro) which includes a new crank seal and water pump seal along with all three water passage seals and 2 tubes of RTV black for the cover for $7.99 afterapplying all of my speed perks discounts:beerbang:. Went to my local Indy parts place and got a set of head bolts, head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, intake mani gaskets,and new exhaust manifold studs/nuts for $127.  All that would have been $250+ at any of the chain stores.  Had to go to NAPA for the valve cover gasket....$57 for both gaskets (I only need one of them....) but the kit comes with new grommets and fasteners.

 

I'm right around $400 now for everything so far, which is about 100 less than I budgeted.  Still need new injector o-rings and upper/lower radiator hoses though, so I'll probably end up right around 500.  Need to do an oil/filter change once I get it running again too.  I already have 3+ gallons of coolant to refill the cooling system, so0 cost on that.  Alternator, water pump and thermostat were all recently replaced (by me:cool:) so there's no need for them.

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