Another cooling thread

[PIKE]

 I have a Mopar one now. I thought you meant the were two styles of Mopar shrouds. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

What Jeep Driver said is the easiest explanation.

 

Generic: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=684506&cc=1180370&jsn=2933

 

Mopar: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10283388&cc=1180370&jsn=2934

 

[jdog]

Still curious about what the condenser looks like and wither its been cleaned

[DirtyComanche]

3 hours ago, PIKE said:

 I have a Mopar one now. I thought you meant the were two styles of Mopar shrouds. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

There's just multiple P/Ns as they supersede them.  There is a physical difference, but not a functional difference.

[JefCooks]

I had the condenser out 2 weeks ago when converting R12 to R134. Its clean and can see through easily. No excess dust, grass or mud. 

[rokinn]

I had the same type of overheating problems that you seem to have.  I heard gurgling when I would shut the engine off.  I would repeatedly burp the system.  Once I replaced the O-rings as stated before I was no longer sucking air and the problem went away except for in the most extreme situations.  I've remedied that by installing an auxiliary e-fan.  If you are hearing gurgling then I reiterate that you are getting air into the system from somewhere. 

[WahooSteeler]

4 hours ago, rokinn said:

I had the same type of overheating problems that you seem to have.  I heard gurgling when I would shut the engine off.  I would repeatedly burp the system.  Once I replaced the O-rings as stated before I was no longer sucking air and the problem went away except for in the most extreme situations.  I've remedied that by installing an auxiliary e-fan.  If you are hearing gurgling then I reiterate that you are getting air into the system from somewhere. 

 

Which O-rings? Size? Part #? On the rad I'm only thinking of the e-fan temp port and the trans lines, what am I missing? 

[JimBorecky]

This may have been answered already. Please forgive me if it has. I have a very tired 89 comanche. I'm moving from a 2.5L to a 5.3L LS. I can't see paying the 6 Bill's for Novak's radiator solution since the 5.3 will remain mostly stock, and will have twice the HP anyway. However I noticed that even among the "performance" radiators there is a difference in price where the ones for the 90 and older are almost double the 91 and newers. Can anyone tell me the difference? They look almost identical from photos.

[rokinn]

17 hours ago, WahooSteeler said:

 

Which O-rings? Size? Part #? On the rad I'm only thinking of the e-fan temp port and the trans lines, what am I missing? 

It depends on how your radiator is constructed.  My old new one had an O ring where the drain plug was.  There is also a larger plug on the drivers side/engine side that would leak because the O ring had deteriorated quickly.  To be honest I'm not really sure what it's for.

 

To add to the above overheating issues my old new radiator sprung an almost imperceptible leak somewhere in the aluminum construction itself.  It was sucking air from there also.  I changed to an open system with a new 2 core all aluminum radiator and so far so good.  It was cooling well except for when towing up a slow steep hill and getting caught in construction traffic.  It's called summer in the mountains.  Hence the E-fan install.  Which I am now quite happy with.

[Minuit]

16 hours ago, JimBorecky said:

This may have been answered already. Please forgive me if it has. I have a very tired 89 comanche. I'm moving from a 2.5L to a 5.3L LS. I can't see paying the 6 Bill's for Novak's radiator solution since the 5.3 will remain mostly stock, and will have twice the HP anyway. However I noticed that even among the "performance" radiators there is a difference in price where the ones for the 90 and older are almost double the 91 and newers. Can anyone tell me the difference? They look almost identical from photos.

The 90 and older (with 4.0L engine) used a "closed loop" cooling system with no filler neck or radiator cap. The '91 and later used a totally conventional system. That's the only real difference. You can install a later model radiator on a '87-90 4.0L engine vehicle with no problems as part of a cooling system upgrade.

 

The 2.5L radiators as far as I know had no change from '90 to '91. Aftermarket part numbers show that they're interchangeable.

[JimBorecky]

13 minutes ago, Minuit said:

The 90 and older (with 4.0L engine) used a "closed loop" cooling system with no filler neck or radiator cap. The '91 and later used a totally conventional system. That's the only real difference. You can install a later model radiator on a '87-90 4.0L engine vehicle with no problems as part of a cooling system upgrade.

 

The 2.5L radiators as far as I know had no change from '90 to '91. Aftermarket part numbers show that they're interchangeable.

Thank you so much. 

[Jeep Driver]

1 hour ago, JimBorecky said:

Thank you so much. 

2.5 radiators did not change until 1997, same radiator from 1984 through 1996.

In 1997 the 2.5 went to the 4.0 radiator.

 

I would encourage you to think this through, I also plan on doing a small block swap and I intend to contact Ron Davis radiators and have a custom radiator built.

 

Also intend to maintain the 2.5 radiator configuration I'll just have a radiator built they can handle the small block Chevy.

 

I don't think the 4.0 radiator will be sufficient or efficient.

 

Also if you are going to cheap out on a $100 Spectre radiator you'll probably cheap out on the fans and you'll be one of those guys who will come back here complaining of overheating.

[WahooSteeler]

1 hour ago, rokinn said:

It depends on how your radiator is constructed.  My old new one had an O ring where the drain plug was.  There is also a larger plug on the drivers side/engine side that would leak because the O ring had deteriorated quickly.  To be honest I'm not really sure what it's for.

 

To add to the above overheating issues my old new radiator sprung an almost imperceptible leak somewhere in the aluminum construction itself.  It was sucking air from there also.  I changed to an open system with a new 2 core all aluminum radiator and so far so good.  It was cooling well except for when towing up a slow steep hill and getting caught in construction traffic.  It's called summer in the mountains.  Hence the E-fan install.  Which I am now quite happy with.

 

Thanks for the timely response. I am literally in the middle of installing a new rad and converting to open cooling. Old one finally sprung a leak somewhere, can't complain since it's the original 31yr old unit w/225k on it! That large plug you are referring to I'm pretty sure is where your efan temp sensor goes. 

[rokinn]

2 hours ago, WahooSteeler said:

 

Thanks for the timely response. I am literally in the middle of installing a new rad and converting to open cooling. Old one finally sprung a leak somewhere, can't complain since it's the original 31yr old unit w/225k on it! That large plug you are referring to I'm pretty sure is where your efan temp sensor goes. 

Not bad, too bad they don't make some things (most) like they used to.  I didn't think about that being the efan temp sensor bung.  Seems rather large, over an inch in diameter.  Have you figured out how you're going to do your overflow bottle?  I repurposed my renix expansion bottle.  Just left it where it was, ran a hose from the rad overflow into the bottom of the old bottle.  3/4 diameter hose and clamp on the bottom of the bottle and and a 5/16 barbed plug attached to that.  Plugged the top hole and drilled a small hole in the cap for air venting.  I may make a switch to another system but this was quick and easy for now.

[WahooSteeler]

57 minutes ago, rokinn said:

Not bad, too bad they don't make some things (most) like they used to.  I didn't think about that being the efan temp sensor bung.  Seems rather large, over an inch in diameter.  Have you figured out how you're going to do your overflow bottle?  I repurposed my renix expansion bottle.  Just left it where it was, ran a hose from the rad overflow into the bottom of the old bottle.  3/4 diameter hose and clamp on the bottom of the bottle and and a 5/16 barbed plug attached to that.  Plugged the top hole and drilled a small hole in the cap for air venting.  I may make a switch to another system but this was quick and easy for now.

 

I was planning (hoping) to come up with a similar solution using the original bottle, a lot easier than trying to mess with coming up with a way to mount the stock open system bottle. I like what you did. Where did you get that 3/4 plug with the 5/16 barb? Also, the stock overflow bottle on the open system has a vent so couldn't you have just left the top hose connector unplugged to serve the same purpose? 

[rokinn]

18 hours ago, WahooSteeler said:

Where did you get that 3/4 plug with the 5/16 barb? Also, the stock overflow bottle on the open system has a vent so couldn't you have just left the top hose connector unplugged to serve the same purpose? 

I believe I got the plug from Lowes.  It was part of a different set of connectors I tried to use before my new fan install but it ended up leaking so I just simplified with this setup.  I tried to find something with barbs on both sides the other day and couldn't.  This one is threaded on the top side so I wrapped copious amounts of Teflon tape around it and then clamped it.  Seems to be working so far.  I thought about using the top vent but wasn't sure how much overflow to expect so I just plugged it and vented the cap.

[WahooSteeler]

34 minutes ago, rokinn said:

I believe I got the plug from Lowes.  It was part of a different set of connectors I tried to use before my new fan install but it ended up leaking so I just simplified with this setup.  I tried to find something with barbs on both sides the other day and couldn't.  This one is threaded on the top side so I wrapped copious amounts of Teflon tape around it and then clamped it.  Seems to be working so far.  I thought about using the top vent but wasn't sure how much overflow to expect so I just plugged it and vented the cap.

 

Got the plug from Lowes yesterday too. 1/4" barb by 1/2" threaded base which fits inside the 3/4" hose perfectly. 1/4" barb was a good snug fit too. I had one of the stock open system bottles and filled that to "full", then poured it into the closed system bottle. Overflowed a little but not much at all. 

[PIKE]

Here is a radiator from a reputable company that lets you do anything you want, open or closed all years. This will be my next radiator if i ever need one.

 

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-cherokee-xj-aluminum-radiator-1989-2001.html

 

Closed system trucks that want to go open with the mishimoto radiator all you need is a stock 2.5L expansion tank, readily available aftermarket, or if lucky there are still a few mopar ones out there.  

 

If your radiator is good, you can go with Macs pressure tank and 2.5 expansion tank to go open . That is what i have done with good results. Macs tank allows you to use a radiator cap and expansion tank as in an open system.

[WahooSteeler]

On 6/26/2019 at 12:36 AM, AZJeff said:

I got my 18lb cap on Rock Auto.  Or you can buy a Mopar.

 

Either way, it’s obvious the Jeep engineers realized the 4.0 was going to run hotter than the average engine, and bumped the cooling system pressure to delay possible coolant boiling issues.  The 18 lb is needed in hot climates.

 

JefCooks, Stant P/N 10334 is an 18psi cap, available just about anywhere <$6

[DirtyComanche]

5 hours ago, PIKE said:

Here is a radiator from a reputable company that lets you do anything you want, open or closed all years. This will be my next radiator if i ever need one.

 

https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-cherokee-xj-aluminum-radiator-1989-2001.html

 

Closed system trucks that want to go open with the mishimoto radiator all you need is a stock 2.5L expansion tank, readily available aftermarket, or if lucky there are still a few mopar ones out there.  

 

If your radiator is good, you can go with Macs pressure tank and 2.5 expansion tank to go open . That is what i have done with good results. Macs tank allows you to use a radiator cap and expansion tank as in an open system.

 

I don't know if I'd call Mishimoto a reputable company.

[AZJeff]

10 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

I don't know if I'd call Mishimoto a reputable company.

I have a CSF in my truck, and also used one in my last XJ.

[azdiesel]

I'm in Phx, need radiator fan shroud for Comanche 2.1 diesel 

[JefCooks]

On 6/30/2019 at 10:18 PM, WahooSteeler said:

 

JefCooks, Stant P/N 10334 is an 18psi cap, available just about anywhere <$6

Thanks! I’ll check it out when I get back for vacation. Happy 4th everyone!

[JefCooks]

Hey everyone. Wanted to give an update to close out the thread and let future people know what worked for me. 

 

On 6/23/2019 at 1:18 PM, Pete M said:

it is ABSOLUTELY a worthwhile upgrade.   Will it fix your problems?  can't say for sure.

 

If your pump was backwards it would overheat all the time. 

 

if it's ok on the freeway, but runs hot when stationary, that sounds like an airflow issue to me. 

 

 

 

Pete was 100% right. I had the original 6 blade fan and it worked, but I never heard it kick on and off, nor could I hear it when the engine was running like on other vehicles I have. So I decided to swap it out with a newer style 10 broad blade style I got for cheap on eBay. 

 

It worked! I can sit in traffic with A/C on and it stays around 210 in 90+ degree heat. I can even park it with ac on and have a quick bite to eat without it getting anywhere near what it used to. I know it’s not 195, but with a few pieces (near rad cap, hood vents, etc) I think I can keep this thing from cooking itself. If anyone is hesitant about buying a new fan, I can say 100% that the fan upgrade is VERY beneficial. Thanks for the suggestion Pete, and to everyone else’s help, suggestions and questions. 

[Minuit]

People really underestimate just how important that auxiliary fan is. I had it die on my '91 a couple of weeks ago and it was immediately noticeable on the temp gauge that something was WRONG at any speed below 30 mph if the A/C was on.