Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi All, first post. New to Comanches but not Cherokees. Bought my 97 XJ stock in 05 and it's now a wrinkled, caged, one ton, rig on sticky tires.

 

Current daily driver is a 1980 Mercedes 240D 4spd. Lowered 2", 2.88 diff swapped for the stock 3.69, pump tuned and timing advanced. Yes, this is a 64hp/100tq motor and I'm guessing I may have added 15% to that on the high end with those mods but... it makes peak torque at 2400rpm and is a sweet highway cruiser. Gets 35mpg on my 60 mile round trip commute. It is rusty though... and a little too far gone to save. So, I have decided to combine my love of unibody Jeeps, manual transmissions, and mechanical diesels and swap the motor into an 86 2wd 5spd longbed. I am hoping that swapping the motor into a vehicle slightly less aerodynamic but a little lighter will keep my fuel economy number right about where it is now.

 

Back in December, a friend and I turned and burned from CT to TN and back in 28hrs to get the truck. It supposedly ran, but I never even bothered. The driver floor is rotted through but there is not a speck of rust anywhere else on the truck.

 

IMG-8135.jpg

 

IMG-8138.jpg

 

I was able to acquire a motor to use for mock up from a local guy. Pretty much just a long block left exposed to the elements for years. This allows me to keep driving the Mercedes in the meantime. Using the Koch MercedesDiesel4x4 adapter kit.

 

IMG-8445.jpg

 

IMG-8447.jpg

 

Next up, I adapted the Jeep alt bracket to the Mercedes alt bracket. My goal through the whole build is to use as many factory Jeep components as possible. With the alternator, it also simplifies wiring.

 

IMG-8485.jpg

 

IMG-8487.jpg

 

This past weekend, a few buddies came over and we got the 2.5 out and mock up motor bolted to the transmission. The first issue I ran into was firewall clearance with the exhaust manifold. OM615 diesels use the same bolt pattern and port locations on the head but have a center dump so I ordered one on ebay. I used the passenger side stock Jeep mount unmodified and tried to do the same with the driver side but it wasn't possible due to clearance issues with the injection pump. I modified the stock bracket to move the mount back about 2".

 

IMG-8509.jpg

 

IMG-8501.jpg

 

IMG-8510.jpg

 

IMG-8511.jpg

 

Next up is front oil sump clearance issues. A big bonus to using a 4 cylinder rather than 5 cylinder (and a 2wd rather than 4wd) is that it appears I will be able to notch the front side of the oil pan, modify the tie rod, and build a new trackbar and then maintain stock height. I want a 100% stock appearing truck and was very opposed to lifting the truck like most do in order to gain clearance with these parts.

 

After that, cooling system and exhaust. Will keep the pictures coming. Thanks for reading!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh hell yeah.  I'm moving this over to Epic   :D 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress today. Got oil pan, trackbar, and ZJ tie rod all modified to all work together. Trackbar uses stock Moog poly bushings at both ends. Stock mounting points have not beedn altered which is a huge bonus. Next up is exhaust and cooling system.

 

Oil Pan

 

image1.jpg

 

Fabricated trackbar and heated/bent ZJ V8 tie rod

 

image7.jpg

 

Fit at full compression

 

image4.jpg

 

Fit at ride height

 

image2-1.jpg

 

Trackbar mount

 

image3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, kansashogan said:

Dang, you had to take a big chunk out of the oil pan! Looks really cool, though.

 

Yes, unfortunately I did. Rough math says I lost about 1 qt of capacity in the sump. Not much to be done to avoid it though, and have seen 5cyl swaps with even more removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fan shroud and exhaust done this weekend. All 2" pipe, straight through muffler from Amazon.

 

Shroud sucked. Not my finest work. But, I think it will work well.

 

0-DED329-F-0013-4609-AE7-B-6-FEBF5-B8-A0

162-EED47-3-A1-C-412-F-B646-8-C421-F4-E4

 

2" downipe. Don't think I could make another one fit this well again to save my life.

 

D3-C89703-A6-BB-45-C2-9216-C9-A7-F1-EC17

 

5053-EA1-F-5-D3-E-46-BD-BF8-C-F6-CA041-A

 

B8570-D49-6-C7-F-4-A8-D-9-F5-D-F830288-A

 

4-C5-DD2-DA-D203-42-BB-B532-2751-D480582

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice work on the fan shroud.... like where your build is going..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
nice work on the fan shroud.... like where your build is going..


Thanks! It did turn out better than I thought.

Couple updates tonight. Coolant crossover and K26 617 turbo. Have a friend with a 617 parts car with a shot turbo... planning to hack off cyl #5 from the manifolds and adapt everything else.

7b08d3463b8c5cad94e70b88d20b8621.jpg

1f7d29e07c9b92b0de0133228c8cfaf2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That cross over pipe is sick..  I'm curious to see how this plays out. You should check out the group om617 swaps on Facebook tons of valuable information there regarding these engine.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Supper cool, would love to do a diesel swap. I’ve herd of guys doing 1.9 TDis but that just seems to small. Excited to see how this goes for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Supper cool, would love to do a diesel swap. I’ve herd of guys doing 1.9 TDis but that just seems to small. Excited to see how this goes for you.

I’m pretty sure the 1.9 TDI makes more power in stock form than the om616, and the 1.9 has a decent bit of aftermarket support with higher stage tunes that can be used.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, TDI definitely makes more power than a 616 and would likely get better fuel economy. I didn’t consider because of how cheap and simple the 616 swap is.

Updates from this weekend: fuel pump delete to fuel sending unit - Mercedes diesel has a lift pump at the engine. Took Darren’s advice and got some real motor mounts.

Steering, trackbar, and coils are installed and jack stands moved from chassis to front axle. Needs brakes and swaybar bushings before the front wheels go back on. Few odds and ends final fitted and a few things painted. Needs a new slave cylinder installed and heater hoses figured out.

Not much left after that until motor is pulled from the car. Which is going to be a sad day. Flywheel should be back from machine shop this week.

6d87d220344ecf8713612be79698cb2b.jpg

89c3176622d5391b4363be8675f2a7f8.jpg

db4c8aab7ad43cf1c7b082278b86fcfb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...