masimmons25

Black or Dark Gray. I think it was a home paint job. It was lifted on 35's at least.

I'm casting a wide net with this one. Today 2/11 around 8:15 AM out front of Jenkins Automotive on W. Main St. in Waynesboro, VA I saw a Comanche Quad Cab conversion drive by, it's the first one I have ever seen in the wild and was so awestruck i didn't even get a picture as it drove by. If the person that owns it or if anyone knows who owns it I would love to see some pics of the build, ask some questions, and potentially even meet up to see it in person. It looked really well done and almost what I thought about building for years. Anyway VERY cool truck

You are right, CNC has never had easier barriers to entry than now, but as someone who has used 3D printing professionally, trying to print a single piece that large scares the crap out of me. Printing in sections will require more work on the back end, but I can't imagine my reaction if i had a print of that volume that had a failure near the end of its print.

You can also do it in sections. There Is a guy I have seen on youtube that you can buy models to make a fast back top for a miata. print in sections and then fiberglass over it. Not strictly 3D printing but easier than make molds.

I did a reverse image search with google and found a thread about portal axles. It says the truck was owned by a member named JohnX, you could message and see if he know what type of topper it is. I also like the lines of it, and JohnX's Comanche with volvo portal axles.

What type of scanning equipment are you using? Cool build.

My father once repaired a passenger side latch pin that fully detached by putting a larger plate under the pin to distribute the force when closing the door and then putting another plate on the inside and having the nut that is on the inside of the latch pin sandwich the everything together. You have to remove the seat, and the b pillar trim then remove the rear speaker, then you can reach up through the speaker hole to get the inside plate and nut in place. His implementation was quite crude looking but you could probably dress it up by shaping the plate to match the contour lines in that area of sheet metal instead of just a rectangular piece of steel. Its not the most elegant fix but it has held for over 10 years.

Short or long bed? The topper from 3rd and 4th gen rangers with the 6 foot bed fit short bed Comanches ok, just need a 3/4in spacer between the bed rail and the base of the topper. Could be made to look even better with some basic fiberglass work.

Looking for one or two canyon Wheels to replace one I just damaged. Located near Charlottesville, VA will pay to ship if the price is reasonable.

Pulled the trigger on a 6ft topper for a 3rd gen Ranger off craigslist. Fits better than I expected, way better than the S10 toppers I have seen on Comanches First pic is the topper mounted shortly after picking it up. The length is about a half inch short at the base/bed rail. The width is almost perfect where it meets the bed but is a little narrower than the back of the cab as you move up the fiberglass. The height is about 3/4in short. The profile of the top corners is close but obviously does not match the Comanche. The profiles start to match better after adding a 3/4in spacer between the bed and bottom of the topper. For now the spacer is just a piece of 1x3 trim wood, after this test I plan on making something more weather resistant. The rest of the pics are with the spacer. The angle of the front of the topper that is against the back of the cab is close enough but could easily be made closer with some fiberglass work. Ranger toppers from '93-'12 seem like a good option for SWB trucks. Some of the newer toppers have more modern looking windows that could complement a 97+ swap better. I'll update after I make a better spacer and modify the area near the gap between the topper and back of bed.

Anyone have experience with how well a topper for a 2nd or 3rd gen Ford Ranger (93'-12') will fit? Anyone have a pic; Combed through the Comanche's with toppers pic thread and didn't see one that said it was a Ranger.

I have a dream of one day getting a LJ and then extending the rear of the tub to the same length as a scrambler.

Passenger side in the process of being acquired, anyone have a drivers side?

I'm looking for a set of tail lights with broken lenses. I am trying to come up with a way to produce reproduction or modified taillights for those of us that need a set and I want to be able to access under the lenses without destroying a set of good lights.

What are your plans for registration? Are you changing the registration and title to diesel or does CT have emissions exemptions on older vehicles allowing you to keep the current registration, in a grey area way.

Stock backspacing for YJ and MJ is 5.25", the wheels in that ad are aftermarket steel wheels with what look like 33's mounted on them, so I would guess they have 3.75" of backspacing which will make your tires stick out a bit and look a little off with stock size tires.

Is there a difference in the knuckles (or at minimum the caliper mounting) between a 2wd beam and a Dana 30? If not here is an interesting brake upgrade I have seen which would retain your stock knuckles and steering; seems like a fairly decent upgrade for not alot of money. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/17-diy-big-brake-kit-xj-mj-tj-yj-d30-44-a-222937/

I have the metric ton with the military wrap that was part of the group buy a few years ago.

You may need to add a lift shackle to the rear, I too ordered GS metric ton springs and only got 1 3/4 of lift.

I would like to have both a simple jpg or pdf and a vector format if it's available.

Anyone have an accurate Comanche line drawing of the truck from the side? Preferably lwb but swb would work. I know it's out there somewhere as I used to have the file but have misplaced it. I have been searching to no avail.

I'm looking for some advice on the value of the parts I'm removing from a '86 2.5 4x4 with a 5 speed. I'm swapping in a TDI ax15 and 242 so the engine trans and transfer case are going. Not positive on accessories yet but I'm pretty sure none of the original equipment will be reused (simultaneously doing a 97+ swap which should provide everything else) I've been hearing more and more that parts for the early 2.5 are becoming hard to come by and I would like to recoup some cost. I read some posts saying I'll get better returns if I break the whole engine down and sell it piece by piece but this could take a while. Sorry I've been rambling a little, just looking for any advice from anyone who's gotten a good return from parting out their unneeded parts, bonus if it's related to the early 2.5 Thanks Edit* sorry if this doesn't belong in the pub, I just didn't think it fit in modifications and repairs.

Looking for the bezel, retainer and boot from a manual 97-01 xj with the dark gray center console, lower interrior and door pannels. Looking for all pieces, but am most interested in the outer bezel.

Wow, beat me to the punch as I was typing.

 The purist in me says no but for the purpose I want to use it for that would make a ton of sense. My skateboard buddies and I take trips all over and its nice to not section it off from the rest of the crew for those longer drives. If I were to do it I would probably still keep the sections behind the driver / passenger seats and just have a little doorway type of deal. Funny enough, the bracing on the current '78 Hilux it currently sits on just has a steel bar that hooks into two brackets on either side above the driver / passenger doors. Ahh, the simplicity  If sectioning off passengers in the rear is the main concern, and not being able to hop into one of the front seats from the rear, I would just remove the rear window and make a good gasket between the cab and sunrader. Then you save all of the structural integrity and can talk to each other between the cab and rear living area. In an emergency I could see you even being able to shimmy up into the driving position from the rear. Love the idea of this build.