Limeyjeeper Posted February 4, 2023 Author Share Posted February 4, 2023 So an interesting lesson in exhaust design. I have a 2 1/2" system on my LS. It should be OK for 320hp. However, I have a Dynomax Super Turbo 2 1/2" muffler. I have just discovered that this muffler necks down to 2 1/4" internally. Not good!! That is too small for an LS. It annoys me that Dynomax sell a 2 1/2" muffler that is actually 2 1/4" internally. So next week I am changing the exhaust after the Y pipe to 3". You can see in the pic how it narrows internally. The 3" Dynomax muffler is 2 1/2" internally which should significantly help with flow. If they didn't sound so good I will go elsewhere. Was this my overheating issue?. Time will tell. My other issue was leaking flange fittings. Most of them are junk. I found a new style of flange called a Marman flange fitting. It is so much better. GBE Mandrel Bending makes them. They are no more expensive than regular flange clamps. It clamps down with a gasket and there is no way it will leak. They are going on next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 Good info on GBE V band clamps. forget which 5 inch stainless I put of Ford 7.3. they are stainless billet weld on ends. never had a leak. had TIG weld with Argon purge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 9, 2023 Author Share Posted February 9, 2023 I wanted a donut spare to go with my 245/70/17 tires on JK 5x5 rims. So after some research I landed on using the WK2 donut. It is a T175/90/D18 with 5x5 spacing. It will only work with an MJ running JK wheels with the adapter to go from 5.4.5 to 5x5. Not going to work for everybody but if you are running JK wheels it is a good option. Wheel fits just fine and the diameter is almost identical to the 245/70/17. I just wanted to run a donut when I am driving around town and not have to have a full-size spare in the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 5 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: I wanted a donut spare to go with my 245/70/17 tires on JK 5x5 rims. So after some research I landed on using the WK2 donut. It is a T175/90/D18 with 5x5 spacing. It will only work with an MJ running JK wheels with the adapter to go from 5.4.5 to 5x5. Not going to work for everybody but if you are running JK wheels it is a good option. Wheel fits just fine and the diameter is almost identical to the 245/70/17. I just wanted to run a donut when I am driving around town and not have to have a full-size spare in the bed. We’ll call it a “traction aid” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 Got the exhaust fixed. Sounds better, no more leaks and it will flow much better than before. I didn't use stainless this time as I wanted it bent, not a bunch of welded pieces which is tricky with stainless unless you have special bending equipment. Got the exhaust much tighter around the bellhousing and up by the front driveshaft. No longer hitting the cross member of the rear leaf spring shackle bolt. Also clears the donut spare much better. I will ceramic coat it black at some point. It is 2 1/2" from the headers to the collector then 3" from there. Also put in a new Cat the replace the rattly Magnaflow one, which got warranted. The marman clamps are fantastic. No leaks ever with those installed. Also installed the Deatschwerks DW200 255lph fuel pump. Definitely holds pressure better. Only issue now is that the fuel regulator sounds like squealing pig. The DW200 is higher pressure than the stock Jeep pump so I am hoping it is just faulty. It regulates the pressure ok, but the noise has to go. Got a new one coming on Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 2 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: Got the exhaust fixed. Sounds better, no more leaks and it will flow much better than before. I didn't use stainless this time as I wanted it bent, not a bunch of welded pieces which is tricky with stainless unless you have special bending equipment. Got the exhaust much tighter around the bellhousing and up by the front driveshaft. No longer hitting the cross member of the rear leaf spring shackle bolt. Also clears the donut spare much better. I will ceramic coat it black at some point. It is 2 1/2" from the headers to the collector then 3" from there. Also put in a new Cat the replace the rattly Magnaflow one, which got warranted. The marman clamps are fantastic. No leaks ever with those installed. Also installed the Deatschwerks D2000 255lph fuel pump. Definitely holds pressure better. Only issue now is that the fuel regulator sounds like squealing pig. The D2000 is higher pressure than the stock Jeep pump so I am hoping it is just faulty. It regulates the pressure ok, but the noise has to go. Got a new one coming on Tuesday. Looking good! Looks like the exhaust pipe is a bit oval in some areas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 We flattened it a bit under the trans, but it won't affect flow materially. Other than that it is round. Being 4WD it is really tight getting down from the drivers side header Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 How did you mount the new fuel pump? Stock sender? I got a wahlboro 255 but haven't figured out a way to mount it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 Here is what I did. It isn't pretty but it works. The DW200 is much shorter and slimmer than the standard pump. So it requires some serious surgery to get it to fit. I used some rubber parts I had lying around. You could use large diameter fuel hose to create the rubber spacers. I had to cutout some of the bottom mount to allow the filter to work. I used a US Motor Works 12-104-5 filter. I clamped it using a hose clamp. I had to trim out the top mount to fit around the connector and clamped it down. I had to add a new hole to clamp it to. Like I said it isn't pretty and next time I would probably use different diameter fuel hose and make better spacers. It is very tight and won't move, just doesn't look factory. I used the DW200 because a lot of people said the Walbro is noisy. The DW200 is very quiet considering its output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 I noticed the Bosch 69302 was a very similar size but had a plastic adapter/spacer. If you could find that part, I bet it would adapt these smaller turbine pumps great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 19, 2023 Author Share Posted February 19, 2023 I saw that but could never source one. I think they are discontinued which is a shame because it would have made for a much easier conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 2 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: I saw that but could never source one. I think they are discontinued which is a shame because it would have made for a much easier conversion. Supposedly Napa still has them in stock but I spoke to Bosch directly and they discontinued it 2 years ago. I asked if they still had any of the other parts in the kit but they were unable to find any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 Swapped out the regulator so everything is playing nice now. No more noise. Used the AN fitting Holley unit 162-591. Makes life much easier when hooking up the fuel lines. Fuel pressure on the gauge is now showing 65 which is a tad high. But by comparison I was at 60 before so I presume the sensor is reading a bit high. Going to hook up an actual gauge to see what the true reading is. Always something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecodemonk Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 I remember looking at the Aerolatch stuff when I first got the LS to go in but ended up staying with the stock setup for now. Are you still using the stock hood latch system too? or is that completely replaced by the aerolatch setup for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted March 4, 2023 Author Share Posted March 4, 2023 On 2/28/2023 at 2:09 PM, thecodemonk said: I remember looking at the Aerolatch stuff when I first got the LS to go in but ended up staying with the stock setup for now. Are you still using the stock hood latch system too? or is that completely replaced by the aerolatch setup for you? Completely replaced. Tough to use it with the fiberglass hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 10, 2023 Author Share Posted August 10, 2023 After 2 years of fighting overheating and going down multiple rabbit holes I decided to ditch the Novak radiator and replace it with a Champion Radiators 2 row crossflow XJ radiator with 3 Spal 30103057 10" fans. My overheating problems have now completely gone away. Driven about 400 miles on open road and in heavy traffic, driven hard and never went over 200F. Never had that happen before. I am so stinking happy!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 That's awesome. I've heard so many bad reviews about Novak radiators cracking/leaking and also not be sufficiently efficient. It's honestly very odd considering they set the bar in many Jeep V8 swap parts otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 11, 2023 Author Share Posted August 11, 2023 I think the dual pass doesn't work very well on an 11" high radiator that is 35" wide. Basically, each pass is only 5.5" high. A stock truck LS radiator is around 18" high and 34" wide. So volumetrically a stock LS radiator is 60% bigger. Triple fans compensate for some of that. I need to dig into the construction some more. I heard that the baffles were not installed on some I need to check mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 13 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: I think the dual pass doesn't work very well on an 11" high radiator that is 35" wide. Basically, each pass is only 5.5" high. A stock truck LS radiator is around 18" high and 34" wide. So volumetrically a stock LS radiator is 60% bigger. Triple fans compensate for some of that. I need to dig into the construction some more. I heard that the baffles were not installed on some I need to check mine. Interesting, I haven’t completed mine yet but I know they said they were waiting in some new cores when I ordered mine. Came in late last year iirc. I hope that radiator isn’t a $1200 paperweight… I ordered mine complete assembled with the fans. Came with some very nice Spal units with a larger one near the inlet/outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowdy89mj Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 I’ve had a few problems with my Novak rad setup ( I’m on my 3rd one.) But they’ve always been great with customer service and replaced it for free. the latest redesign has kept my truck cooler than ever. 180° cruising to the track I topped out at 204 hot lapping the drag strip and drive home at 180. atleast you got the issue resolved, unfortunate about how it came about though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 25, 2023 Share Posted August 25, 2023 21 hours ago, Rowdy89mj said: I’ve had a few problems with my Novak rad setup ( I’m on my 3rd one.) But they’ve always been great with customer service and replaced it for free. the latest redesign has kept my truck cooler than ever. 180° cruising to the track I topped out at 204 hot lapping the drag strip and drive home at 180. atleast you got the issue resolved, unfortunate about how it came about though. Hopefully I got the redesigned unit! Sorry to hijack limey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 On 8/31/2020 at 7:17 PM, Limeyjeeper said: Another milestone. All the factory gauges are working. Just got to play with the Dakota Digital box to get the LS PCM to see the speed. Did you have to use the Dakota digital stuff because you didnt use a stand alone wiring harness? I also need to re-read the part where you kept the A/C controls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 I used it to get a speed signal to the factory 411 PCM so I could get the cruise control to work. You don't need it for gauges if you are using a 231 or 242 transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 19 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: I used it to get a speed signal to the factory 411 PCM so I could get the cruise control to work. You don't need it for gauges if you are using a 231 or 242 transfer case. huh okay okay good to know. I wanted to retain the factory dash when I planned my LS swap. I thought about putting a digital dash kit in place of the factory gauges, but the fuel gauge would have to be wired in. The standalone harness kit I want to use comes with a digital dash and gps speedo, I should contact them to see if I can still wire in factory gauges and opt out of the digital dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 This is pre 97 dash. Post 97 is a whole other ballgame!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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