DirtyComanche Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 1 minute ago, DracoSedentis said: I plan on doing that soon. I have 3 or 4 pull-a-parts near where I live, hopefully I can score the WJ lower control arms, maybe a steering wheel. There seem to be a lot of jeeps availible at these places near me. Maybe I'll luck out. You can buy the control arms new from the aftermarket for not a lot of money. They are considered a wear part because the bushings are so time consuming to replace. Moog: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3983961&cc=1381452&jsn=390 Something like $30/each. (I didn't feel like switching the pricing on the site, I have it in cnd so it's a bit of a guess on the conversion). Mevotech: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6115977&cc=1381452&jsn=398 $40/each, obviously a better product. There is Mopar ones available too, but they're unreasonably priced at about $120/each. I'd probably buy the Mevotech before fighting a set out of the junkyard that already have a couple hundred thousand on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 15 minutes ago, DracoSedentis said: the WJ lower control arms Don't. The average WJ in the junkyard probably has around 200k miles, at which point the bushing has very little life left whether it looks bad or not. Plus you'll have to remove it in the junkyard (PITA), change the bushings (PITA) and then install in your truck (PITA) and at that point I don't see the value versus buying new control arms. Just buy new arms and only go through one PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 10 minutes ago, Minuit said: Don't. The average WJ in the junkyard probably has around 200k miles, at which point the bushing has very little life left whether it looks bad or not. Plus you'll have to remove it in the junkyard (PITA), change the bushings (PITA) and then install in your truck (PITA) and at that point I don't see the value versus buying new control arms. Just buy new arms and only go through one PITA. I second this. I actually have set in the garage. Pulled them from a WJ that already had the front axle out, so as easy as it can get. Got them home and pressed out the bushings. PITA. After pricing new bushings, I think I will just buy new control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 1 minute ago, schardein said: After pricing new bushings, I think I will just buy new control arms. Can you post the bushing part numbers please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2000,grand+cherokee,4.7l+v8,1381418,suspension,control+arm+bushing,7532 3 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: Can you post the bushing part numbers please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 I've purchased 2 sets of WJ arms from junkyards and checked out maybe 20 more over the years. the more I look at them, the more I'm convinced the ones I bought had already been replaced. so I guess I got lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DracoSedentis Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Well, I reckon I'll be just buying some new ones instead by the sound of things. Which tbh I'm ok with new. LOL Excuse my newness but what is this "PITA" being bandied about? Pain in the @$$? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 yup. pain in the butt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DracoSedentis Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 15 minutes ago, Pete M said: yup. pain in the butt. Nice. Speaking of Pain in the butt, earlier was glanced over how to fit the WJ lower control arms into a comanche by doing some bushing grinding. Is there anywhere I can find info on how to properly do this? "99-04 Grand Cherokee lower control arms. The metal sleeves in the bushings have to be ground down for them to fit (grind each side the same amount), not very difficult." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 just need to trim the metal bushing to be flush with the rubber bushing. before on the right: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 One other source of wobble might be the hub bearings. I think the earlier ones are adjustable. Other chime in on this. I have adjusted some on a MB 240D. Two other things to look at for safety and drivability. The headlights, look at H4 conversion and headlight harness upgrade. For a bit more power, see if there is a dent in the down pipe or cross over pipe in the exhaust. Also, possibly bore your throttle body. Might help the I4 a bit. I don't know how important it is for the radiator to be upgraded on the I4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 On 1/12/2018 at 7:17 PM, Pete M said: just need to trim the metal bushing to be flush with the rubber bushing. before on the right: Don't you also have to take a cutting wheel to your LCA buckets to keep them from binding up when flexed? Deal breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I used junk yard ones in mine they were fine besides the rubber in the aftermarket china parts will never out last factory mopar ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 17 minutes ago, DesertRat1991 said: Don't you also have to take a cutting wheel to your LCA buckets to keep them from binding up when flexed? Deal breaker. I trimmed the edges of the control arms (you can see a bit of that in the pic) and also nipped the corners of the control arm buckets. but I did it purely out of the hypothetical. I have no idea if you would actually contact any of those places in a real world situation. I'd be curious if anyone tested that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 On 1/12/2018 at 2:26 PM, DracoSedentis said: I've also read that it works with only "jeep rims" they don't specify what jeep rims though. I've got the stock spoke style rims on this jeep , OLD ones, like what is in this picture: I'm wondering if these below are what they mean by 'jeep rims': No, we/they mean the old ones. The issue is backspacing. The factory rims from the XJ/MJ period are mostly 15x7 (the base, steel rims are 15x6), with 5-1/4" backspacing. This allows even 31x10.50 tires to tuck up inside the fenders when the suspension compresses. Most aftermarket rims have 4" to 4-1/2" backspacing, which does NOT allow the tires to tuck inside the bodywork. Those newer rims might work, but you'll need to verify the backspacing and the bolt circle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCO6 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Jeep TJ MOAB wheels pictured above (lower one) are 16"x8" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 5" back space ... and look great on an MJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 33 minutes ago, PCO6 said: Jeep TJ MOAB wheels pictured above (lower one) are 16"x8" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 5" back space ... and look great on an MJ! They look okay, but the turbine (10-spoke) wheels (upper one) are 15"x7" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and look much better on an MJ. Period correct! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DracoSedentis Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 So my understanding here is that the 15"x7" 5x4.5" factory turbine style wheels already on the Comanche are the size I need for up to 31". If that is the case I will get a second set and use the ones on there now as spares. I happen to really like the turbine look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 10 hours ago, PCO6 said: Jeep TJ MOAB wheels pictured above (lower one) are 16"x8" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 5" back space ... and look great on an MJ! They look great (if you like them), but the bolt circle is wrong so they won't fit without adapters. And that was my point. Adapters will push them outboard from the hubs, and then they won't tuck up inside the fenders without trimming sheet metal and flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 7 hours ago, DracoSedentis said: So my understanding here is that the 15"x7" 5x4.5" factory turbine style wheels already on the Comanche are the size I need for up to 31". If that is the case I will get a second set and use the ones on there now as spares. I happen to really like the turbine look. Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 4 minutes ago, Eagle said: They look great (if you like them), but the bolt circle is wrong so they won't fit without adapters. And that was my point. Adapters will push them outboard from the hubs, and then they won't tuck up inside the fenders without trimming sheet metal and flares. that particular rim comes in 2 flavors. the TJ ones will be of the right bolt pattern, the JK ones will not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCO6 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 19 minutes ago, Pete M said: that particular rim comes in 2 flavors. the TJ ones will be of the right bolt pattern, the JK ones will not. That's correct. I have TJ MOAB wheels on my XJ, TJ, LJ and off road trailer and they fit fine. I'm about to put them on my MJ too. I've stocked up on them - currently have 30. They are easy wheels to restore. I basically blast and paint which I find easier that polishing aluminum wheels. I'm not as familiar with the JK MOAB wheels or if they're even called that. They are 5x5" so adapters are needed. They come in 17" dia. (not sure about 16") but they are generally flat, not dished like the TJ wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCO6 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 10 hours ago, HOrnbrod said: They look okay, but the turbine (10-spoke) wheels (upper one) are 15"x7" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and look much better on an MJ. Period correct! I like the 10 spokes. I bought a new XJ Laredo in 1990 and specifically wanted that wheel. The XJ Limited was the top of the line then but I went with a black Laredo. I really didn't like all of the "gold" on the Limited including the wheels which I did NOT like. I joked with the salesman and said the Limited kind of looked like a pimpmobile - my opinion but I think he'd heard it before (lol). Ironically I now have an '89 Limited 2 dr. The previous owner removed all of the gold accents ... which is exactly what I would have done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCO6 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Eagle said: They look great (if you like them), but the bolt circle is wrong so they won't fit without adapters. And that was my point. Adapters will push them outboard from the hubs, and then they won't tuck up inside the fenders without trimming sheet metal and flares. I agree. Personally, I would avoid adapters even with modified sheet metal, flares, etc. I have them on my trailer (had to) and I constantly check to ensure they are properly torqued. Just my opinion but that's a hassle I wouldn't want to go through on a road vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DracoSedentis Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 I've found another set of the 10 spoke wheels online, I'll be grabbing a set of those for the new tires and keeping the originals on the original 10 spokes I have installed already. I'm thinking the new ones I'll have done in black though, the silver is really shiny to my eyes for a red truck. As for tires, what are some not-so-expensive ones that you guys would suggest within that 30"-31" range. They need to be decent for both on and off road. Though the offroad part will be out here in Utah. Mostly desert and rough dirt roads. I won't be rock crawling this truck. Edit: Also, anyone have any ideas why my radio doesn't pick up FM radio? I get AM just fine but its all odd people and crazy religious channels. No music at all. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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