Some questions

[Pete M]

for the FM issue, send a message to Minuit.  He knows just about all there is to know about the oem radios.   (including how to get an AUX port in them) 

[DirtyComanche]

On 1/17/2018 at 1:48 AM, PCO6 said:

I'm not as familiar with the JK MOAB wheels or if they're even called that.   They are 5x5" so adapters are needed.   They come in 17" dia.  (not sure about 16") but they are generally flat, not dished like the TJ wheels.    

 

 

I have JK Moab wheels on my MJ (and my JK, and I have 2.5 spare sets ).  Yes, they're called Moab wheels, yes they're 5x5", yes they're 17" only, and yes they're nearly a flat face.  I forget what the actual backspacing/offset is on them, but they don't stick out a lot.  If you ran WJ knuckles and some aftermarket rear shafts or redrilled ones they'd probably work great with the JK car tire type takeoffs.  Of course JK takeoff tires are now starting to dry up, so it's probably not worth pursuing unless a guy really wanted the look of the 17" wheels.

 

 

 

OP, I'd check that your antenna is actually hooked up.  AM comes in a lot easier than FM without an antenna.

[DirtyComanche]

On 1/17/2018 at 2:09 AM, PCO6 said:

I agree.   Personally, I would avoid adapters even with modified sheet metal, flares, etc.   I have them on my trailer (had to) and I constantly check to ensure they are properly torqued.  Just my opinion but that's a hassle I wouldn't want to go through on a road vehicle.

 

I check them every time I have a wheel off, since it takes about 30 seconds extra per...  Never had an issue, and I've run them on lots of vehicles.  The key is to install them correctly the first time.  That said I avoid pulling the adapters off, because it forces you to do a painful retorque where you pull your wheels off again to retorque them, then you again have to retorque the wheels again since you had them off to retorque the adapters...

 

Although I'll point out that to do my current MJ over again I 100% would just buy a set of JK axles and not look back.

 

(I'll stop hijacking this thread now)

[PCO6]

3 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

I check them every time I have a wheel off, since it takes about 30 seconds extra per...  Never had an issue, and I've run them on lots of vehicles.  The key is to install them correctly the first time.  That said I avoid pulling the adapters off, because it forces you to do a painful retorque where you pull your wheels off again to retorque them, then you again have to retorque the wheels again since you had them off to retorque the adapters...

 

Although I'll point out that to do my current MJ over again I 100% would just buy a set of JK axles and not look back.

 

(I'll stop hijacking this thread now)

I agree re the double torquing  ... not fun.   JK axles would be a bit of work but not a bad way to go.   

[WahooSteeler]

On 1/12/2018 at 9:17 PM, Pete M said:

just need to trim the metal bushing to be flush with the rubber bushing.    

 

before on the right:

 

Pete, does the other end need to have the same done? Also, as DesertRat asked, is there any other mod needed, i.e. as you have done to the end there or on the buckets? I thought I read on here somewhere if you don't grind down the ends on the axle side they will press against the axle when they are moving in the rubber bushing. Getting ready to do this today or tomorrow so want to get it right the first time!  

[Pete M]

yes, I trimmed the other bushing too.   

 

this is the other trimming I did (though I don't know if it's truly necessary for a DD as I was just playing around to maximum droop)

 

 

 

 

[WahooSteeler]

Thanks Pete. This seems like a pretty straightforward remove & install, any tips or things to look out for?

[Pete M]

the axle likes to twist and not let you put the last bolt in easy.  big pipe wrenches and ratchet straps have occasionally been employed to tweak the holes to line up.  

and if you're just replacing the arms, do one side and then the other so the axle and coils don't get crazy on you.  

[WahooSteeler]

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

the axle likes to twist and not let you put the last bolt in easy.  big pipe wrenches and ratchet straps have occasionally been employed to tweak the holes to line up.  

and if you're just replacing the arms, do one side and then the other so the axle and coils don't get crazy on you.  

[saveevryjp1998]

A trick I learned on xj front 30's over the years is do the pumpkin(driver's side)first. 1st-driver upper, 2nd- driver lower, 3rd- passenger upper, 4rth passenger lower. The 4th a ratchet hooked so you can pull down and back to the rear axle. The trick is getting a counterclockwise rotation down and back to rear axle. I use a medium ratchet roughly 1500lb I think. It has a a larger hook but not the big one and it reaches to rear driver perch to wrap and pull, which helps with rotation. The hook is just the right size for grabbing track bar bracket so its out of the way to install the bolt but in just the right spot to grab and rotate. I make it harder by installing my springs first, but I don't like using those Macpherson spring compressors. You literally have to flatten over half of some springs to install after fighting the perch and bumpstops factory or extended factory or even the puck route. Its even worse if your doing spacers since its like you need 4 hands at once to keep them from falling down. Trying this many times many ways with different lifts. The system mentioned above has become my go to for any setup now that I do.

[saveevryjp1998]

Keep the front jacked on stands and rear tires blocked too. When you get ratching the 4th is when you need to pay special attention for safety issues of course. You could always put it on the ground to off stands when you getto the 4rt, but last time I did it it took 2 straps to the rear and a 3rd doubled up to a comalong and another xj. It was more trouble with it sitting on its on weight fighting it.