91Pioneer Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 OK this is a tip for newbies mainly. If you find your "brake thingy" by the rear axle is dangling down, you can easily fix that up by zip-tying the lever into a horizontal or slightly above horizontal position like this. When I bought my 91 the lever was dangling straight down and the brakes almost felt dangerous. Well I really had little to no rear brakes. The lever is supposed to be connected to a rod on the diff and normally it sits horizontal with the ground. When you load stuff in the box, it pushes that arm above that level to proportionally increase the braking power to the rear. Full disclosure: I had that thing level with the ground at first but when the snow & ice hit the ground I could feel that the rear wheels were "pushing" the trucks when I braked. I tweaked the zip tie (tightened it) and now when I brake on ice I can tell I have full braking power all the way around, the fronts don't lock up right away, the truck stops awesome in winter now. So in my opinion the level you see that zip-tie at is PERFECT, for all year round really. As rusty as it looks I can tell you with 100% certainty that the valve works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Done it on more than 1 occasion..... I approve. lol :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetrad Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I've been wondering what to tie that to. Thank you! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I also did that... and then undid it right away. If it's been dangling for years, then your rear brakes haven't been working for years. I always lightly push the brakes when I shift out of park, and doing that jammed them on, and they stayed that way. Fortunately I have that habit, so it happened in my parking stall and not in traffic. I couldn't move in either direction. I got out and kicked the crap out of the rear wheels with my steel-toes, and they eventually released, but then it happened again right away when I next touched the brakes. Not to mention my big toe was bruised for a couple weeks... So yeah, fair warning... it's good to make sure your rear brakes are in good shape before doing this. That, however, shouldn't be a reason not to do this. Rear brakes are a good thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 My valve was non functional. I bypassed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 X2 I got a manual adjustable valve from JEGS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 You can make an adjustable rod as Hornbrod did . He has a write up in the DIY section . This allows you to fine tune the rear brakes . The above is good for a quick fix and the adjustable valve is also a good fix . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I recently just swapped mine out for an XJ valve the the master, pulled and stored the stock valve (worked fine, but since I was replacing all the hard lines anyway...) eventually I'll just ship it to a new home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I fixed mine too......gone. Got $50 for it on ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 X2 I got a manual adjustable valve from JEGS. Me, too!! Along with a dual diaphragm booster and master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I also did that... and then undid it right away. If it's been dangling for years, then your rear brakes haven't been working for years. I always lightly push the brakes when I shift out of park, and doing that jammed them on, and they stayed that way. Fortunately I have that habit, so it happened in my parking stall and not in traffic. I couldn't move in either direction. I got out and kicked the crap out of the rear wheels with my steel-toes, and they eventually released, but then it happened again right away when I next touched the brakes. Not to mention my big toe was bruised for a couple weeks... So yeah, fair warning... it's good to make sure your rear brakes are in good shape before doing this. That, however, shouldn't be a reason not to do this. Rear brakes are a good thing. ^^ Ah, the joys of rear drum brakes. :yes: You wouldn't have that problem with disk brakes. Now if I could only figure out how to get the stuck rotors off mine so I can change the caliper pads................. :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'd love to have rear discs. I have the dual diaphragm booster and an adjustable prop valve for the rear. Swapping discs to a Dana 44 isn't as easy as doing it on to an 8.25 though. I have a spare load sensing valve BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'd love to have rear discs. I have the dual diaphragm booster and an adjustable prop valve for the rear. Swapping discs to a Dana 44 isn't as easy as doing it on to an 8.25 though. I have a spare load sensing valve BTW. You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'd love to have rear discs. I have the dual diaphragm booster and an adjustable prop valve for the rear. Swapping discs to a Dana 44 isn't as easy as doing it on to an 8.25 though. I have a spare load sensing valve BTW. You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither. I don't know what the above statement means, but if you are stating that rear disk brakes do not need a some type of biasing valve ( either load sensing or a proportioning valve) that's not correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'd love to have rear discs. I have the dual diaphragm booster and an adjustable prop valve for the rear. Swapping discs to a Dana 44 isn't as easy as doing it on to an 8.25 though. I have a spare load sensing valve BTW. You go discs and you'll need neither, want neither. I don't know what the above statement means, but if you are stating that rear disk brakes do not need a some type of biasing valve ( either load sensing or a proportioning valve) that's not correct. I have no valve, notta. Brakes are perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My rear disks are sensitive to even a ± 1/4" adjustment of the load sensing valve rod. I adjust the rod so the fronts just lock up before the rears in a panic stop when empty. Damn sure wouldn't want rear brakes with no means to adjust the biasing, either with the stock valve of an adjustable inline valve. But you can do whatever you want mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My rear disks are sensitive to even a ± 1/4" adjustment of the load sensing valve rod. I adjust the rod so the fronts just lock up before the rears in a panic stop when empty. Damn sure wouldn't want rear brakes with no means to adjust the biasing, either with the stock valve of an adjustable inline valve. But you can do whatever you want mate. I have no idea what you did wrong. :P Mine will not lock the rears but it will plant your face in the windshield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I too am running with the bias valve removed. 50/50 split with the stock master, booster, distribution block and explorer discs. I absolutely love the brakes. According to me 'seat of the pants' caliper, the rears lock up right after the fronts... but not for long since the truck is quickly coming to a stop. Dang truck could stop on a dime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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