What Vehicles Have A Dana 44 Rear

[Alicia]

I'm looking to get a Dana 44 for my 91 MJ. I'm hitting up a few junk yards soon and was wondering which vehicles have them. Also what should I be looking for as far as the good/bad?

[Dillithium]

I'm not sure if you have a lot of Suzuki in US JY's, but they had them. As far as good/bad, make sure it's straight and inspect the teeth inside the diff.

[mvusse]

78-79 F100 had them, but they are full width, have a larger 5 bolt wheel pattern (5 on 5.5?) and are geared stupid high, like 2.72:1.

 

I think full size Cherokee/Wgoneer/J truck. width is close to what we use, I believe 6 bolt pattern, and geared stupid low, but not quite as bad as the Ford.

 

87-92 Comanche with trailer package or heavy duty axle option.

 

87-91(?) Cherokee with trailer package or heavy duty axle option.

 

TJ Wrangler Rubicon. These have a factory installed selectable locker.

 

Isuzu Rodeo I believe, 6 bolt pattern, many with disc brakes.

 

Some Dodge Dakota.

 

Probably more I'm either forgetting or don't know about.

 

 

 

 

Also, easier to find, direct bolt in except for spring perches, equal in strength to a D44 and much easier to find would be a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25" from a late 96 through 01 Cherokee.

[Incommando]

There were dozens and dozens of models with various versions of Dana 44's. 

Don't get hung up on using a D44 just because they were an original option. Of more importance would be getting an axle that matches the vehicle. By far the easiest swap is the 8.25 from an XJ especially the 29 spline version from a later XJ. It is the right width and bolt pattern. It and the other common swap, an Explorer 8.8, require far less adaption than 99% of rear D44's. The Isuzu axles have six lugs and a Pick up axle would be too wide and have the wrong pattern. Factory MJ/XJ D44's are way over-priced. The D44 and 8.25 are virtually a tie in strength and the 8.8 is stronger and has Disc brakes.

[Pete M]

Don't get hung up on using a D44 just because they were an original option. Of more importance would be getting an axle that matches the vehicle. By far the easiest swap is the 8.25 from an XJ especially the 29 spline version from a later XJ. It is the right width and bolt pattern. It and the other common swap, an Explorer 8.8, require far less adaption than 99% of rear D44's. The Isuzu axles has six lugs and a Pick up axle would be too wide and have the wrong pattern. Factory MJ/XJ D44's are way over-priced. The D44 and 8.25 are virtually a tie in strength and the 8.8 is stronger and has Disc brakes.

 

:agree:

[HughMann]

Also don't just grab a axle without paying attention like I did.  I am currently trying to trade a Isuzu Rodeo D44 with 4.78's and drum brakes for a more suitable axle or a transmission because I put the cart before the horse and got blinded by just getting a d44.  But I am 90% sure I can swap the drums to disks on mine but the 4.78 gears are a little to low for what i need.  But a ford 9" out of a 70's ford truck or big bronco will bolt right up since the spring perches have less than 1 inch difference in spacing as the mj's.

[johnj92131]

The 97-2004 Isuzu Rodeo and 97-2003 Honda Passport are the same car.  Both have rear disks and Dana 44 standard with the V6.  Both have the 6 lug wheel pattern.  The V6 automatic has a 4.10 final drive, the 5 speed has a 4.30 final drive.  Axel width is about an inch narrower than the Comanche Dana 44.

 

Junk yards are full of Ford Explorers with the 8.8 and rear disk brakes.  Think that may be the cheapest solution.  Next would be the 8.25 from a later Cherokee.

[benjy_26]

OR... a 2WD rear end from a Taco. The width is similar, the aftermarket for Yota rear ends is limitless, it seems, they're light, stupid-strong, and have a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I actually plan on throwing one under my Manche when the D35 gives up the ghost.

[HughMann]

 

 

Junk yards are full of Ford Explorers with the 8.8 and rear disk brakes.  Think that may be the cheapest solution.  Next would be the 8.25 from a later Cherokee.

and on car-part a 8.8 out of an v6 explorer is $150-200 complete

[Pete M]

  But a ford 9" out of a 70's ford truck or big bronco will bolt right up since the spring perches have less than 1 inch difference in spacing as the mj's.

 

but has a 5 on 5.5 bolt wheel pattern and the perch angle may not be right.  trying to skip the step of welding on perches is not a great indicator of a good swap candidate.  welding is the easy part. :D

[Incommando]

Perches are from $15-$30 and getting them right in both width and pinion angle is worth the effort and expense of welding them on IMHO.  My favorites: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Anti-Wrap-Leaf-Spring-Perches_c_36.html 

 

Maybe the easiest way for a swap using seriously stout pieces: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Axle-Swap-Combo_c_39.html 

 

The XJ perch spacing is similarly close, too, the but there have been issues with just bolting an XJ axle under an MJ on the XJ perches.

[yxmj]

 

Don't get hung up on using a D44 just because they were an original option. Of more importance would be getting an axle that matches the vehicle. By far the easiest swap is the 8.25 from an XJ especially the 29 spline version from a later XJ. It is the right width and bolt pattern. It and the other common swap, an Explorer 8.8, require far less adaption than 99% of rear D44's. The Isuzu axles has six lugs and a Pick up axle would be too wide and have the wrong pattern. Factory MJ/XJ D44's are way over-priced. The D44 and 8.25 are virtually a tie in strength and the 8.8 is stronger and has Disc brakes.

 

:agree:

 

My vote is for the 8.25.....especially if your front is already 3.54/3.55.....then once you change the perches there is basically nothing else to do

[Alicia]

Thank you all much! That's way more info then what I had! I always heard the D44 was the way to go. So two other questions ...if I'm looking to do SOA I have to weld the perches anyways right? And also what's the huge deal with disc breaks vs drum breaks? Is the breaking power or maintence any different and is that something that is considered a plus? I also heard (could be wrong too) that the breaking power isn't any different. Sorry for so many questions :-) I have the tools and the will power but lack the knowledge

[Pete M]

I converted to rear disks because the drums would just get full of mud/water.  :(

[gogmorgo]

Disk brakes have the advantage in just about every area except cost. They cool better because the friction surface is completely exposed so they don't fade quite so soon compared to a drum where the friction surface is enclosed. Also, disks have two friction surfaces, so they build up less heat on the friction surfaces to begin with. Also, as Pete mentioned, drums tend to collect moisture and debris which reduces braking effectiveness and increases wear, whereas disks will fling things off to a certain degree.

 

But drums cost less, both in that they cost less to manufacture (and therefor purchase), and in that just about any rear axle you find will already have drums on it.

 

As far as stopping power is concerned, in either case it's a function of the pressure on the friction surfaces. Turning up the pressure is equivalent to pushing the brake pedal harder. The pressure can be increased so either will be just as effective as the other. Disk brakes are less susceptible to brake fade, which is basically your brakes becoming hot enough that the surface is too soft to be able to stop the vehicle as effectively, so it can be said that they can maintain higher stopping power longer than drums, but unless you're driving like you're on a racetrack (you're either at WOT or standing on the brakes), then you likely aren't ever going to need to worry about brake fade. Or if you're going down a really long hill, but you shouldn't be doing that on disk brakes, either.

[HOrnbrod]

Disk brakes have the advantage in just about every area except cost. They cool better because the friction surface is completely exposed so they don't fade quite so soon compared to a drum where the friction surface is enclosed. Also, disks have two friction surfaces, so they build up less heat on the friction surfaces to begin with. Also, as Pete mentioned, drums tend to collect moisture and debris which reduces braking effectiveness and increases wear, whereas disks will fling things off to a certain degree. But drums cost less, both in that they cost less to manufacture (and therefor purchase), and in that just about any rear axle you find will already have drums on it.

 

To add to that, disk brakes are basically maintenance free. No periodic brake shoe adjustment is required, and there are no springs, levers, and other hardware to rot or wear out and replace. The only "maintenance" is to periodically eyeball the caliper for brake pad wear, then replace the pads when needed.

[Incommando]

Yeah a brake drum full of mud has little stopping power

[cruiser54]

Thank you all much! That's way more info then what I had! I always heard the D44 was the way to go. So two other questions ...if I'm looking to do SOA I have to weld the perches anyways right? And also what's the huge deal with disc breaks vs drum breaks? Is the breaking power or maintence any different and is that something that is considered a plus? I also heard (could be wrong too) that the breaking power isn't any different. Sorry for so many questions :-) I have the tools and the will power but lack the knowledge

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. 

 

Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY.

[Pete M]

[cruiser54]

Thanks Pete. I had it bass ackwards. 

[HOrnbrod]

[Pete M]

  the way I remember is that the XJ has the leafs hanging off the outside of the frame while MJ leafs are directly under.  :thumbsup:

[Incommando]

 

Thank you all much! That's way more info then what I had! I always heard the D44 was the way to go. So two other questions ...if I'm looking to do SOA I have to weld the perches anyways right? And also what's the huge deal with disc breaks vs drum breaks? Is the breaking power or maintence any different and is that something that is considered a plus? I also heard (could be wrong too) that the breaking power isn't any different. Sorry for so many questions :-) I have the tools and the will power but lack the knowledge

 

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. 

 O

Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY.

How did you do it?

[cruiser54]

 

 

Thank you all much! That's way more info then what I had! I always heard the D44 was the way to go. So two other questions ...if I'm looking to do SOA I have to weld the perches anyways right? And also what's the huge deal with disc breaks vs drum breaks? Is the breaking power or maintence any different and is that something that is considered a plus? I also heard (could be wrong too) that the breaking power isn't any different. Sorry for so many questions :-) I have the tools and the will power but lack the knowledge

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. 

 O

Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY.

How did you do it?

 

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-zj-disc-brakes-cherokee-xj-chrysler-8-25-a-57807/