mpace6a Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Any updates on the truck? Just re read your build thread for motivation to keep my 86 and swap in a 4.0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Actually, yes lol. I'll have to update this pretty soon, but just to name a few things that have been done since February: I've swapped in bucket seats from a 4-door XJ (I know these aren't the preferred seat, but it's what I have for now till 2-door buckets can be had). I have a front drive shaft in my possession. Unfortunately, it has a flange adapter on the CV end that I'll need to figure out how to swap out.Also have a CB radio to install. Just recently, the high-pressure hose for the power steering got replaced since the old one busted at the crimped end. I'm sure there's a few things I'm forgetting, but this is just the stuff off the top of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timp85 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I'm in the middle of this swap now. I'm using a 95 XJ 4.0 and ax15. i cut the firewall to be able to slide the engine in but i noticed the driver side motor mount on the frame needed to be moved forward about 2 inches. I was wondering if you ran into the same issue and what you did to fix it. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I'm in the middle of this swap now. I'm using a 95 XJ 4.0 and ax15. i cut the firewall to be able to slide the engine in but i noticed the driver side motor mount on the frame needed to be moved forward about 2 inches. I was wondering if you ran into the same issue and what you did to fix it. thanks Did you use the 4.0 frame side bracket ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'm in the middle of this swap now. I'm using a 95 XJ 4.0 and ax15. i cut the firewall to be able to slide the engine in but i noticed the driver side motor mount on the frame needed to be moved forward about 2 inches. I was wondering if you ran into the same issue and what you did to fix it. thanks Did you use the 4.0 frame side bracket ? ^This. I had to swap the DS mount from my donor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timp85 Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 So the overhead console from the cherokee just trimmed in at the rear and flushed up to a factory headliner? I have no headliner and an overhead console from cherokee and was wondering how it could be adapted. Oh and awesome build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Been quite some time since my last update here... Wow!Anyway, I've decided that I want to lift the MJ afterall. Plans are to do an 8.8 rear with 4.10 gears, SOA swap. RE 4.5" springs, Rocky-Road Outfitters MJ control arm drop brackets and swap in a D30 with 4.10 gears. I've sourced both my axles for the project, and literally just finished my 8.8 about an hour ago after months of slow progress on it. Here she is: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheath Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Yay!! Updates!! lol now lets get this thing lifted and straight into BEAST MODE!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheath Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Mainly so I'll be the only stock red MJ around!! lol :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stDeuce Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Your comanche build is coming along nicely! I should move my build thread over here too... Just a quick FYI, I was running a 242 in my 5-speed TJ for several years, and I'll probably put it back in soon... You'll find that in "full time" mode, there's a lot of bucking when you turn because of the front axle u-joints not transmitting rotation at a constant velocity. With an auto, you don't really notice it much, but with the manual, it can get pretty severe. I ended up changing to ZJ CV style front axle shafts. I'm never going back to U-joints. :) With the wheels straight, the CV is about as strong as a U-joint. With the wheels turned to lock, the U-joint is about 40% of it's original strength, and the CV is still at 100%. I've not broken one yet, in almost 10 years of wheeling. I run a front truetrac, and I stand on the brake pedal at times to get it to lock up. I HIGHLY recommend swapping shafts if you have the opportunity. I got them from one of the big auto parts stores for $50 each back when I did it. Wait for a sale on CV shafts and then go get a set. :) They also keep the tire from yanking at the steering wheel if you spin it with the wheel turned. Very smooth!! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Your comanche build is coming along nicely! I should move my build thread over here too... Just a quick FYI, I was running a 242 in my 5-speed TJ for several years, and I'll probably put it back in soon... You'll find that in "full time" mode, there's a lot of bucking when you turn because of the front axle u-joints not transmitting rotation at a constant velocity. With an auto, you don't really notice it much, but with the manual, it can get pretty severe. I ended up changing to ZJ CV style front axle shafts. I'm never going back to U-joints. :) With the wheels straight, the CV is about as strong as a U-joint. With the wheels turned to lock, the U-joint is about 40% of it's original strength, and the CV is still at 100%. I've not broken one yet, in almost 10 years of wheeling. I run a front truetrac, and I stand on the brake pedal at times to get it to lock up. I HIGHLY recommend swapping shafts if you have the opportunity. I got them from one of the big auto parts stores for $50 each back when I did it. Wait for a sale on CV shafts and then go get a set. :) They also keep the tire from yanking at the steering wheel if you spin it with the wheel turned. Very smooth!! :) Sweet, thanks for the tip man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Annnnndddd... she's in. Still have a few loose ends to tie up. E-brake, shock mounts, and gear oil. Can't wait till I get the front done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Sweet...can't wait for the final results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheath Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 you should leave it like that. kind of the opposite of the squat guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Mad rake, huh? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Sneak preview of the next stage of the build: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggilez Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 looks nice, I'm jealous. Also the front looks a lot wider, do you not have spacers on the 8.8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 No, but I think it's just the angle of the picture that makes it look wider. I may put 1/2" spacers on the rear, but I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 How'd you measure the spring perch spacing on your 8.8? I'm about to drop mine in, but I keep getting cold feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nice! I'm hoping to get a long bed for the next truck I get...if I didn't already have an amc 20.... I'd be picking up an 8.8.... I read somewhere that if you have a deep enough offset rim you don't need spacers for the rear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 That would be true, although unless you want to run mismatched wheels front/rear, they'll make the front stick out negating the aesthetic advantage of the offset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 That would be true, although unless you want to run mismatched wheels front/rear, they'll make the front stick out negating the aesthetic advantage of the offset. I'm running a pretty high offset wheel already and the fronts stick out more than the rears do. I think our trucks are wider out back than they are in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 The rear axle is about 1" narrower than the front. The body of the MJ is a lot wider behind the door than the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 How'd you measure the spring perch spacing on your 8.8? I'm about to drop mine in, but I keep getting cold feet. I measured them based off the old axle. Simply put the 8.8 on saw-bucks with the stock Explorer perches flat and level on the saw-bucks, then put my new Barnes4x4 perches on the top side, spaced them where the needed to be based on my measurements from the old axle, made sure they were perfectly parallel to the old perches, then I tacked them in place and triple checked everything. Once I confirmed my placement was dead on, I welded it inside and out. THEN, I cut the old perches off. If I were to do it again, I'd probably put a 2 or 4 degree tilt to the new perches just because after bolting in the axle, it looks like it's not perfectly pointing inline with the drive shaft, but nothing worth worrying about. I welded on the shock mounts after I swapped the axle in. Best part of doing that that way was, I got them welded in a place on the 8.8 where my factory length shocks can be reused without any additional length needed. That would be true, although unless you want to run mismatched wheels front/rear, they'll make the front stick out negating the aesthetic advantage of the offset. I'm running a pretty high offset wheel already and the fronts stick out more than the rears do. I think our trucks are wider out back than they are in the front. I think the fact that the front of the MJs and XJs narrow down slightly in the front makes it looks like the tires are sticking out further. In all actuality though, the 8.8 is roughly ½" shorter on each side than a standard 35 or 44, so its subtle difference would go unnoticed to most anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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