mikekaz1 Posted August 12, 2015 Posted August 12, 2015 question for you guys... can you upgrade the booster without upgrading the master cylinder? i actually like and prefer the chevy dual reservoir/master cylinder. that way if you pop a brake line you never fully lose brakes.
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2015 Author Posted August 12, 2015 I do not believe so... The pushrod that comes out of the booster into the master cylinder may be different lengths so it needs to match with the same year booster. The new Master cylinder also has two lines coming out so you do not fully lose brakes either.
mikekaz1 Posted August 14, 2015 Posted August 14, 2015 I know I used to have a 1995 XJ that popped the rear line and I lost all brakes completely. Straight to the floor. And I know for a FACT that the old style will maintain brakes because its the same ones that's in my s10 which currently and for the last 1.5years has a popped rear line. And I still can brake no problem off of the front And downshifting.
Crash Posted August 16, 2015 Posted August 16, 2015 From what I have gathered from a handful of people is that the 95/96 Booster will bolt to the Renix-era Master. Thankfully, I have access to all of the brake system of a 2001 XJ, so I will be using the front hard lines when I do the swap. And I can get an SAE to metric adapter line at work for the rear brake line.
phenryiv1 Posted August 16, 2015 Posted August 16, 2015 Did this swap about a month ago amd still cannot get the system to bleed.
1989 Eliminator Posted August 16, 2015 Author Posted August 16, 2015 That seems to be a different issue. Did you bleed in this order? Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Any leaking lines? Did you bench bleed the MC?
mikekaz1 Posted August 17, 2015 Posted August 17, 2015 From what I have gathered from a handful of people is that the 95/96 Booster will bolt to the Renix-era Master. Sweet! That's what I wanted to hear! Thankfully, I have access to all of the brake system of a 2001 XJ, so I will be using the front hard lines when I do the swap. And I can get an SAE to metric adapter line at work for the rear brake line.
onlyinajeep726 Posted August 19, 2015 Posted August 19, 2015 The Chevy style MC will not bolt to the dual diaphragm Chryco booster. Not only is the push rod length different, the size of the bore in which the MC slides into the booster is not the same size, the threaded studs from the BB don't even come close to lining up with the holes on the MC. I do know, that there was a dual diaphragm booster sold on eBay at one time that looks very similar to the the Chryco ones that do in fact work with the Chevy style MC.
joester1908 Posted December 31, 2015 Posted December 31, 2015 Thank you for the great write up! The brakes on my 90 really suck, so i am excited to give this a try. I'm going to be making a couple thousand mile road trip in my Jeep this summer, and good brakes are a must....
TheDude Posted January 7, 2016 Posted January 7, 2016 Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be. But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should. I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out. Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try?
cruiser54 Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Just a few notes here. The ZJ booster/master is not a proven donor as far as I know. It's either 95 to 96 with it's factory spacer or 99 to 2004 wJ and you mod the firewall a bit. Buy one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
WyoCherokee Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be. But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should. I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out. Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try? Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.
WyoCherokee Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be. But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should. I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out. Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try? Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.
MichiganDuck2 Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 On 7/18/2013 at 10:38 PM, HOrnbrod said: That's way overkill. A 1/4" square aluminum plate with a center hole large enough for the booster arm movement and four 5/16" holes holes to match the booster studs is all you need. Thirty minutes of fab. If you can't grab one from the yard. Here's a pic. Unfortunately you can't buy one from the dealer; it's part of the 95-96 XJ brake booster package. Might as well do your brake upgrade right. Should have made a template of the spacer plate when I did mine. Sorry to revive an old topic here, but how important is that spacer? I just did the WJ booster on my 88 and I used 4 single 1/4" spacers and covered the round part with foam to seal it. It brakes hard, but not until further down in the travel, but it is a gradual increase, not all or nothing.
cruiser54 Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 2 hours ago, MichiganDuck2 said: Sorry to revive an old topic here, but how important is that spacer? I just did the WJ booster on my 88 and I used 4 single 1/4" spacers and covered the round part with foam to seal it. It brakes hard, but not until further down in the travel, but it is a gradual increase, not all or nothing. You don't use a spacer with the WJ. You clearance the firewall lip for proper brake pedal height and geometry.
HOrnbrod Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 ^^ This. You only use the spacer with the 95-96 XJ boosters. That's one of the reasons I used the XJ booster instead of the WJ so I wouldn't have to hack up the firewall.
cruiser54 Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 And, there may be even better options out there. It seems we've been hung up on the 95 to 96 XJ or the 99 to 2004 wJ conversion. what about 97 to 2001 XJ?
MichiganDuck2 Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 13 hours ago, cruiser54 said: You don't use a spacer with the WJ. You clearance the firewall lip for proper brake pedal height and geometry. Interesting. I did it based off of other people doing spacers with a WJ booster. I believe the reason was to get the pedal height closer to stock.
cruiser54 Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 10 hours ago, MichiganDuck2 said: Interesting. I did it based off of other people doing spacers with a WJ booster. I believe the reason was to get the pedal height closer to stock. The pedal height is the same on vehicles I've done with the 95 and spacer and the WJ without.
cruiser54 Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 This is interesting. Later XJ..... https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/98-booster-90-xj-242443/
HOrnbrod Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Looks like it might be a bolt-in for the HOs by using the existing brake switch and losing the one on the booster arm.
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