Knucklehead97 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Well since my MJ is the first manual transmission I've ever really had the pleasure of messing with. Its taken me some time to figure out how to drive one. I have gotten everything pretty downpat and love driving it but theres one thing I haven't figured out... Starting up hills. Like not cranking the truck. Going into first gear while up hill. I roll back and just haven't found out the trick to it. I was hoping you guys could give me some tips and tricks on how you manage to do it, so I can start driving it more places :D Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Its just going to take time as this is probably the hardest part when it comes to driving a five speed. From a dead stop facing up hill your best bet will probably be to hold the brake with one foot and slowly let off the clutch with the other until you can feel it start to engage ( the engine will begin to labor) once that happens you need to make a quick but controlled switch over from the brake to the gas, give it a little while continuing to let up on the clutch. If done right you should be able to take off again smoothly without jumping and without rolling backwards. Hope this helps ftpiercecracker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 :agree: That's about the only way. Try to get a feel for where your clutch starts engaging on a level surface and practice smooth take offs before getting adventurous on hills, unless of course, you have no choice. I was in the same boat as you not too long ago when I got my 4-speed MJ back in January. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 If your emergency brake works you can use it to assist you. When stopped engage the E-brake with the jeep in neutral and your foot on the brake pedal. When ready to proceed - release the clutch as you normally would and as it engages release the E brake with your hand. This works well and can completely eliminate any roll-back. Handy when some ding-dong pulls up on your bumper. Practice it and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 When I taught my daughter to drive I purposefully made her learn in the truck. Anybody can start stop with an auto, but when you can start uphill with a stick....We would drive down dirt roads, I would make her do "panic stops" on an uphill then start over. Sadistic I know, but she drives a clutch today without even thinking how and she is only 14 1/2 yr old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 I had been trying the letting off the clutch slowly then swapping from the brake to the gas, it takes some practice for sure. My brother in law said how he does it is keeping them on the clutch and brake and then using the heel of his brake foot to start the gas as he lets off the brake and clutch (I was going to try that next chance I got) my E brake works great, but the handle still flys past where its supposed to stop when you let it off. But I guess I'm gonna find me a secluded up-hill dirt road once I get my battery cables and fuel leak fixed. Thanks guys :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmoore2 Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 My brother in law said how he does it is keeping them on the clutch and brake and then using the heel of his brake foot to start the gas as he lets off the brake and clutch (I was going to try that next chance I got) Sounds way more complicated than just letting out on the clutch and giving it some gas. Try feathering the gas. Almost like tapping it, let out till the clutch till it catches. In a week you will be driving it like nothing. Hill or no hill. I wouldnt over complicate it like a woman would do though. :yes: Or you bro in-law. Keep at it and you will have it down NP. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Like the old joke: How do you get to Carnaige Hall? Practice, practice, practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 For the street the suggestions given are great, if you start going offroad a lot I would install a hand brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 In 1957 I was going from Pueblo to Dow AFB, Bangor, Me, Had a 1954 Willys Aero Lark pulling a 4X6 trailer. Wife was driving and I was asleep in the pass seat. Was going up a really steep hill in West Va.At 2 AM I got rudely woke up by a air horn and a set of very bright set of lights hitting me in the face from a 18 wheeler also going up the hill but was stopped due to the road being blocked by my car and trailer jack knifed in the middle of the highway. Wife didn't downshift soon enough and stalled, jack knifing us. The rear of the trailer was hanging over the Ohio river and the front bumper was hanging over the ditch. We changed places and I managed to get straightened out enough to let the semi by. Went back down to the bottom of the hill and started over. For the sake of my marriage, I never said anything to her about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Just don't use the clutch as a hill holder :no: best way of burning out a clutch that I know of second is riding the clutch, burns out the Throw Out Bearing, both baaaadd... Clutch should be in or out as much as possible with your foot on the floor as much as possible between shifts. Nuther bad habit...resting your hand on the shifter, causes wear on the slider forks, rails, whatever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Just don't use the clutch as a hill holder :no: best way of burning out a clutch that I know of second is riding the clutch, burns out the Throw Out Bearing, both baaaadd... Clutch should be in or out as much as possible with your foot on the floor as much as possible between shifts. Nuther bad habit...resting your hand on the shifter, causes wear on the slider forks, rails, whatever... Did not know all of that... Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 I'm deffinetely eventually going to be installing a XJ center console with buckets and handbrake. I've gotten good at not riding the clutch and keeping my hand off the shifter. Tomorrow I'm hopefully fixing my gas leak and working with my battery cables some. Then I should be good for some practice. Could someone point me towards a complete positive side battery cable kit thats cheap? Does'nt matter how good quality. I just need it to work till I get my welding cable ones built. Thanks for all the tips guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Oh and does anyone elses brake pedal go almost all the way to the floor before it actually really starts to brake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Have you tried bleeding and adjusting them? Also pull the wheels and inspect the linings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zackcj7 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Don't be afraid to give it a little more gas when starting on a hill. Once you get used to where your clutch pedal begins to catch it will become second nature. Just find a hill on rarely used dirt road and practice till you have it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Have you tried bleeding and adjusting them? Also pull the wheels and inspect the linings. I've got brand new brakes all around. I pumped the calipers back up with the fluid cap off to get the air out. I'll try bleeding them when I get the chance. How do I adjust them? I didn't know you could. And I've been searching for a dirt road with a hill, nearby, just so I can do so :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 The back drums are adjusted through an opening in the back of the dust shield. With the rear jacked up and tires off the ground, you can use a flat head screw driver through said opening and spin the adjustment gear until the tire won't spin by hand. Then back it off the adjustment gear by 5 clicks and you should be golden. Also, you can get it close to adjustment as mention before, but then drive the Jeep in reverse at about 3-5 MPH and give it some mild brake so it can self adjust. That last part may take a handful of tries, so make sure you have plenty of room to back up. As far as front goes, the calipers should adjust automatically when brakes are applied, assuming all the air is for sure bleed from the lines. One last note, if you still have the MJ load sensing valve in the back, you'll have a nice 15 step process to bleed the brakes since you have to also bleed the bypass line... This little bugger was my motivation for modifying my MJ to have tradition (XJ style) brakes. Just my two pennies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 its really simple. It just gets in your head and you want to panic. like said the easiest most practical way. Learn where your clutch starts to engage. when you see its time to move let it out to there where it starts to catch and go from the brake to the gas and drive away! I'm so used to driving one ton trucks or something with such lower gears, I can just let the clutch out without the gas and take off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmoore2 Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 My Comanche with 4.56 gears in it will pull its self off in first gear.... 3rd gear in 4wd low. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 The back drums are adjusted through an opening in the back of the dust shield. With the rear jacked up and tires off the ground, you can use a flat head screw driver through said opening and spin the adjustment gear until the tire won't spin by hand. Then back it off the adjustment gear by 5 clicks and you should be golden. Also, you can get it close to adjustment as mention before, but then drive the Jeep in reverse at about 3-5 MPH and give it some mild brake so it can self adjust. That last part may take a handful of tries, so make sure you have plenty of room to back up. As far as front goes, the calipers should adjust automatically when brakes are applied, assuming all the air is for sure bleed from the lines. One last note, if you still have the MJ load sensing valve in the back, you'll have a nice 15 step process to bleed the brakes since you have to also bleed the bypass line... This little bugger was my motivation for modifying my MJ to have tradition (XJ style) brakes. Just my two pennies. the rear drum brake "should" adjust automatically in a perfect world. how i adjust the rear brakes, I remove the tires and drum brake, and adjust the screw thing at the bottom, then i test fit the drum, till its almost snug. i then put everything back together, get in the jeep and drive forward a few feet and press the brakes hard, then reverse and press the brakes hard, repeat 3 to 5 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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