Jump to content

Shortbed MJ fuel tank swap?


Recommended Posts

Yeah... Sounds an awful lot like what's supposed to be there isn't, and that what is there shouldn't. 

As for what's actually there? Could be literally anything, although from you description a shortbed MJ tank is unlikely. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I know it doesn't hit when it's parked on stock suspension and unloaded. I think it only hits when loaded down but I can't say it doesn't hit for sure empty on a hard acceleration or right turn.

 

I should note that I currently have a d35. I'll be able to test a d44 when I do that swap down the road.

 

Even at that,  the contact area is very small considering the amount of extra fuel you gain (if indeed this is a 23gal tank).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The concept that someone would think that other moving chassis parts hitting the gas tank is an acceptable situation just mystifies me.

 

NOTHING good (or even acceptable) is going to come out of that condition.  It needs to be fixed by some means.

 

PLEASE do not consider this a “livable” condition, even in the short term.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm kind of interested in this. Maybe by having 4.5" of rear lift and properly bump stopped I could get away with it? From my research it appears that the sending units should be the same as the extra capacity is from the tank being longer not taller. It sure would be nice to get more than 270 miles to a tank and have to fill up every day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll just bang the tank corner with a rubber mallet or dead blow to give me more clearance, paint the tank and check for issues/marks once again.

The area of contact in the picture is maybe 2" - 3" round, so very little massaging is necessary.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/31/2019 at 3:34 PM, AZJeff said:

The concept that someone would think that other moving chassis parts hitting the gas tank is an acceptable situation just mystifies me.

 

NOTHING good (or even acceptable) is going to come out of that condition.  It needs to be fixed by some means.

 

PLEASE do not consider this a “livable” condition, even in the short term.

 

I was comparing it to dragging your tank over rocks on the trail in my head. You know, self clearancing. However when you put it that way, it makes more sense. I don't drive this thing except a little on the weekends so immediate action isn't much of a concern. I will fix it before I drive it again though.

 

 

23 hours ago, Pete M said:

I guess you could extend your bump stops a whole bunch.  :dunno:  or weld a clearanced section into the corner of the tank.  I've seen that done before on hotrods.

 

I don't trust myself to weld on the tank (thin plus gas/heat) and I really don't want to pull and drain the tank  to do that work in the first place. It is a much better/stronger solution for someone that wheels and needs the extra beef/protection.

 

16 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

A big lift would also solve the problem, although I imagine just putting in a shortbed tank off RockAuto would be cheaper and easier. 

 

To each their own, I was planning on doing the Dakota tank swap until I discovered the tank I had was much longer than a spare I picked up from a friend. Thats what lead me to question what tank I had and brought me to this thread.

 

6 hours ago, TexanEliminator said:

I'm kind of interested in this. Maybe by having 4.5" of rear lift and properly bump stopped I could get away with it? From my research it appears that the sending units should be the same as the extra capacity is from the tank being longer not taller. It sure would be nice to get more than 270 miles to a tank and have to fill up every day.

 

More bump on the drivers side or a hammer massage on that corner would work I'd think. Flexing it out would help determine if extra bump is necessary.

 

I'm not sure what sending unit I have in my truck but it reads about 3/4 when full and stays there  for a really long time. I also have never had my gas light come on so I don't know if I have just never ran it down far enough, or if my light is broken. I'm just too chicken to test how low I can go and be stranded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
On 7/10/2010 at 1:16 PM, Jeepman said:

Xj Fuel senders are Wrong for the MJ tank because they are too short and turn the wrong way however if your not afraid to modify the XJ sender you can turn it into a proper MJ sender as I did 2 years ago for my HO conversion on my 89 MJ...

 

I bought a Brand new XJ sender that matched my Swap year (if you do not match your year the gauge will read backwards) then I cut it and lengthed the tubing insde and rotated the filter to the proper size so it is easy to do just takes a little time and you will have a brand new MJ sender made from a XJ sender...

 

Good luck

More information on how you did this?? I’ve been searching relentlessly  for a sender unit/pump assembly and can’t come up with squat. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, MulletDaddy25 said:

More information on how you did this?? I’ve been searching relentlessly  for a sender unit/pump assembly and can’t come up with squat. 

 

MTS makes new MJ senders :L:  so far only for 86-90, but still it's progress. :D 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...