buffalob Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 1st chouce AEV pintlers 8.5 X17 (NOW COME IN BLACK!!!) have the argent ones on my truck. but seriously the AR23's will look great..... go for it. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 A couple of washers behind the steering stops will prevent the LCA rubbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 1st chouce AEV pintlers 8.5 X17 (NOW COME IN BLACK!!!) have the argent ones on my truck.but seriously the AR23's will look great..... go for it. Bob My brother just got those wheels for his JK. They are nice but at over $200 a wheel they are way out of my price range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 A couple of washers behind the steering stops will prevent the LCA rubbing. I know but I need all the turning radius I can get. I have too make to many u-turns uptown when I drive it to work. Plus I like the look of the smaller back spacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backdraft Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 A couple of washers behind the steering stops will prevent the LCA rubbing. I know but I need all the turning radius I can get. I have too make to many u-turns uptown when I drive it to work. Plus I like the look of the smaller back spacing. Maybe a GPS then. You know, so you don't miss your turns the first time. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Maybe a GPS then. You know, so you don't miss your turns the first time. :yes: Oh, you're so funny Mike! Any preference on wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backdraft Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Out of the 3 you posted, I like the first ones. The AR23. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Out of the 3 you posted, I like the first ones. The AR23. Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Personally, I like your Ravines. Run a spacer if necessary and trim the end caps if you have to, but they look great on your rig. Don't get me wrong...I dig my AR Bajas on my XJ, but your truck has a "factory" appearance that work well with the Ravines...just my opinion. BTW, when I went to 32x11.50's at right at 4.5" of lift on the XJ, I only trimmed the end caps on my bumpers by a small amount...so little that you would never notice. The Baja's are 15x8 w/ 3.75" of backspacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 If i had to pick one it would be first option. Myself.....i would keep the ones on it! Get spacers, trim minor, run washers....anything to keep the clean "factory" look you have going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 I don't dislike the Ravines. I happen to like them a lot, but I want to take advantage of the lifetime tire balance and rotation that I paid for when I bought the wheels at Discount Tire. That means no spacers. They won't touch the vehicle if I have them installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I don't dislike the Ravines. I happen to like them a lot, but I want to take advantage of the lifetime tire balance and rotation that I paid for when I bought the wheels at Discount Tire. That means no spacers. They won't touch the vehicle if I have them installed. They have no problem with my 1.5" spacers with 35" tires mounted on Ravine rims. Love those inconsistent policies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 The cost of occasional balancing versus free balancing plus the cost of wheels doesn't make sense to me. Say you cough up 20% tire life expectancy just because you forgo balancing just because it isn't free. That 1/5th tire life is still cheaper than wheels. You can still have the tires balanced at a nominal fee anyway. Besides...even if it did make economic sense, when did economy take the front seat to either function or looks when it comes to such a pretty MJ. It will look great with any of the aftermarket wheels, but those Ravines kick-a. To me, you truck looks like something that Jeep should have built and the Ravines work well with your overall look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I like AR23 the best. If you sell your ravines, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 The cost of occasional balancing versus free balancing plus the cost of wheels doesn't make sense to me. Say you cough up 20% tire life expectancy just because you forgo balancing just because it isn't free. That 1/5th tire life is still cheaper than wheels. You can still have the tires balanced at a nominal fee anyway. Besides...even if it did make economic sense, when did economy take the front seat to either function or looks when it comes to such a pretty MJ. It will look great with any of the aftermarket wheels, but those Ravines kick-a. To me, you truck looks like something that Jeep should have built and the Ravines work well with your overall look. I agree, luckly he didnt stop at primer with the paint. That would have been more economic. Too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exxon Valdez Jeep Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I don't dislike the Ravines. I happen to like them a lot, but I want to take advantage of the lifetime tire balance and rotation that I paid for when I bought the wheels at Discount Tire. That means no spacers. They won't touch the vehicle if I have them installed. What? Discount won't touch a vehicle with spacers? They never said anything to me when I had my Moabs and 35s. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 I agree, luckly he didnt stop at primer with the paint. That would have been more economic. Too. I haven't spent as much as some on my truck, but I'm sorry that saving a little money is such a problem. If I buy spacers that's $200. If I buy new wheels I can sell the Ravines for a difference of about $200. I paid money for the lifetime balancing and I don't know about you but I like to save money where I can. The Ravines have a back spacing of 5.5 and the spacers will effectively put them at 4.25. The AR23s are 3.75, so that would give me an extra half inch. Given the choice I'd rather have the spacing with the wheels instead of with spacers. I haven't made a decision yet so we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 I agree, luckly he didnt stop at primer with the paint. That would have been more economic. Too. I haven't spent as much as some on my truck, but I'm sorry that saving a little money is such a problem. If I buy spacers that's $200. If I buy new wheels I can sell the Ravines for a difference of about $200. I paid money for the lifetime balancing and I don't know about you but I like to save money where I can. The Ravines have a back spacing of 5.5 and the spacers will effectively put them at 4.25. The AR23s are 3.75, so that would give me an extra half inch. Given the choice I'd rather have the spacing with the wheels instead of with spacers. I haven't made a decision yet so we'll see. That was more a joke, no matter our builds we all like to save $. Did you actually pay extra for free rotations?!?! Les schwab and discount offer that free up here in washington. I just sold some 5x4.5 spacers on craigs for $50.. if patient they pop up here and there. (Also search 5x114 pattern, its same and very common car size. Spacers are popular with drifters/ricers to "flush" there rides) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 I agree, luckly he didnt stop at primer with the paint. That would have been more economic. Too. I haven't spent as much as some on my truck, but I'm sorry that saving a little money is such a problem. If I buy spacers that's $200. If I buy new wheels I can sell the Ravines for a difference of about $200. I paid money for the lifetime balancing and I don't know about you but I like to save money where I can. The Ravines have a back spacing of 5.5 and the spacers will effectively put them at 4.25. The AR23s are 3.75, so that would give me an extra half inch. Given the choice I'd rather have the spacing with the wheels instead of with spacers. I haven't made a decision yet so we'll see. How bad do you rub right now and how much bigger of a tire are you wanting to run? My XJ has 15x8 AR wheels with 3.75" backspacing on 33x12.50's and it doesn't rub. One thing to pay close attention to is the actual width of the tire vs advertised width. For example, my Cooper STT's are actually only 12.08" wide, which is pretty narrow for a 33x12.50 and one of the reasons I chose them. While I really like the 3.75" backspacing and how they make my tires stick out on the XJ, your "tucked in" Ravines inspired me to go a different route with my MJ build. Ravines with 33's will definitely have to run a spacer, but I'm hoping a 1.25" spacer giving a total 4.25" will give enough clearance for rubbing while not sticking out as much as the XJ. I may have a bit more info for you this week as I am just about to get my MJ back drivable. For the purpose of making sure I have enough lift for 33's and just to see how it looks, I plan to swap the XJ wheels & tires to the MJ and drive it for a week or so. I'll post some pics and you can see 1st hand how 3.75" backspaced wheels look with 33's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 I may have a bit more info for you this week as I am just about to get my MJ back drivable. For the purpose of making sure I have enough lift for 33's and just to see how it looks, I plan to swap the XJ wheels & tires to the MJ and drive it for a week or so. I'll post some pics and you can see 1st hand how 3.75" backspaced wheels look with 33's. That would be awesome. I just got a quote today from 4 Wheel Parts on re-gearing my axles and welding up new perches and shock mounts in the rear for spring over. If my other car sells, I may go that route. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 OK guys big plans are in order. My car is selling today, so I'm trying to put together a list of everything I'll need to convert to long arms and 33s. That way I can get a good look at my budget and see if its worth doing right now. Long Arms: I've narrowed it down to Clayton, TNT and Rock Krawler. Clayton is at the top of my list right now because I like their removable cross member. Are their MJ specific kits or will the XJ kit work fine? $950 Springs: I'm using my stock 2wd drive leafs in the back, so I want to wait and measure for the front after I install so I don't get a reverse rake. I figure I can always swap in some rear 4wd leafs or shackles. Any recommendations for front springs? I'm budgeting about $150 for those. Shocks: I had OME shocks on my TJ and really liked them, but Bilsteins seem pretty popular here. 4 Wheel Parts has four 5100s for $300. Other suggestions? Track Bar: I will need to upgrade my stock bar. Clayton's HD bar w/ bracket is $290, TNT's is $290. Any other suggestions where I can save a little? Brake Lines: I know I can get a set of stainless lines front and rear for about $120, but I'd like to save some money here if I could. Are YJ lines long enough up front for the flex I'll gain with roughly 6.5" of lift? Also, what can I use in the rear? Tires: 33x12.50 Goodyear Duratracs. I'm very happy with the 31s I have now, so I'll probably stick with them. ~$800 Wheels: 15x10 or 15x8? I'm getting something aluminum, so I'm budgeting about $400. Regear/SOA: I've gotten two quotes, one from a local shop and another from 4 Wheel Parts. The local shop included labor for installing the rear SOA, but even without that, they were a little higher. I need to confirm with 4wp if their quote included installing the axle after they added the new perches and shock mounts. I can get another rear 8.25 for about $110, so I may just take that to them and then install it myself later. My quotes included 4.56 gears front and rear, the rear soa conversion and a rear Detroit Truetrac. The cost is somewhere between $2150 and $2500 (ouch). Sway bar Disconnects: JKS are $150. Rock Krawler are $106. Are there any better cheaper options? Anything else that's necessary? Bump stops, steering, other? All that together puts me well over $5,000. Once everything is done, I can sell my current lift, wheels/tires and I have another set of wheels for sale as well. I'd like to get down to $4,000 if possible after I sell everything. I'd really like to keep my factory bumper and flares for now and I don't want to rub. I'd like to do this right, but I don't want to spend more money than I have to. Any suggestions/comments/recommendations are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motion Offroad Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Track Bar: I will need to upgrade my stock bar. Clayton's HD bar w/ bracket is $290, TNT's is $290. Any other suggestions where I can save a little? Rock Krawler - $224.10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 I'm pretty far from being impressed with rock krawler's welds. There's no pride in them...like they're slapped together, and they don't care to clean them up before paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockMJ Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Skip RK, they are notorious for the joints failing and I have to agree with the overall quality. Its poor. Clayton's is more expensive but if you want the best thats what you go with. I know you pay super fine attention to detail and I will always praise Clayton's products up and down for their strength and reliability. Another great option is a JKS Adjustable Trac Bar and it is certainly durable. Ive run both the Clayton's and JKS ones on countless Jeep's without issue. Good luck! RockMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exxon Valdez Jeep Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 I've run the T&T stuff hard on my big jeep for 7 years now, so I'm a bit biased in leaning their direction. I know Willy, Reson46 on here has their stuff too. T&T has a killer tracbar and bracket combo and for offroad use the T&T kit has the highest ground clearance with a nicely tucked up bellypan and those nice looking Ravines ( ;) ) will have all the clearence in the world thanks to the arms. I've never liked the Clayton crossmember hanging down, but I hear good things about Clayton stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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