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I recently acquired an AX-15 transmission and want to swap out my current BA-10/5 for it. I don't have any donor parts from the original vehicle, so I need to make sure I purchase all the correct components. If I purchase this adapter, I should be able to use the existing x-member and mount, correct? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716007--nv3550--ax15-crossmember-mount-kit-for-jeep-yj-wranglers/ And I know the 4wd shift linkage is different, so I'll need something like this? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/715545--transfer-case-shifter-bracket-jeep-np231/ The X-15 was pulled from a '92 XJ, so I believe I should be ok with the existing hydraulic throwout bearing (I believe '93 and later need the external slave cylinder). I'm placing it in a 1989 MJ, and from what I've read, the later BA-10/5 outputs could be either 21 or 23 spline, so I'm not sure if I need a new input gear for the t-case. Also, is this the correct pilot bearing I would need? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716164--pilot-bearing-750-id-x-1818-od/

Just bought an 87 short bed, 4.0 2 WD a few months ago. Originally white and sold new in CA. Its been repainted factory red sometime in its life and has the original tan vinyl bench. Bought it from a young guy in K.C. and had it shipped to Ohio. I think it was parked for awhile because the original 5 spd tranny was bad. The guy I bought it from swapped in an AX15 with help from his dad. He also put in a gauge cluster with the tach. I wanted a 2WD because I'm only going to drive it in fair weather. Pretty sure it only has 102k on it. Previously I owned a 91 Cherokee Laredo and drove it daily for 8 yrs. Looking forward to making some improvements as I get more into it. I've only put about 10 miles on it so far as I had to get rid of a Ford Ranger first so I could transfer the plate. Only the 2nd Ford I've owned and it just wasn't me. The other was a Model A.

Interested if anyone has a spare or leftover internal slave AX-15 bellhousing lying around they'd like to part ways with, loan out, or donate. Looking into making my own engine adapter and want to avoid removing my trans just for dimensions... worth a shot!

It's been awhile since I last posted anything but I've been busy with the birth of my second girl. Now she's 3 months old and my oldest is now seven. I'm also a firefighter at to different departments and going to school part-time. But during my off time occasionally I get the chance to tinker on on the Comanche. Here recently I've been working on trying to get my Ford 9 inch in. I'm at the point of setting my pinion angle and butting everything back up. My next big project will be replacing the Aw4 auto with a manual. Not sure right now if I wanna go nv3550 or ax-15. I've heard that the nv3550 is stronger but the ax-15 is more reliable. The nv3550 is also picky on its fluids. I do know if I go with the ax-15 then I'll need the 94 and up due to the external slave cylinder. And I also know that the nv3550 has a better crawl ratio in first at 4.01 compared to the ax-15's 3.83. What do you guys think? Nv3550 or ax-15 tranny and why? New or junkyard or rebuilt? My other question or concern is after the tranny I wanna go low low with my gearing. I've got decent low gearing in my diff with Dana 44 and the 9 inch having 5.13's. I was thinking of doing a doubler setup with the northwestfab doubler kit since I have a spare 231 setting around (price is around 700$ for kit or 1600$ for a built one. Was also thinking of running a doubler with a rubicon case that I can pick up for $1100. Also if not the rubicon case I'd like to run the Tera low kit if I were to keep the 231 (price on the Tera low is around $700). Here's another idea...I've got a ford np205. Is that overkill? Attach that to the doubler and run that? What do y'all think? Would the np205 mate up to the doubler kit by nwf? Any ideas? Let me know what y'all think. If you guys have any suggestions that would be helpful please feel free to post your comments. Thanks

Is this a good kit? <AX15 Master Rebuild Kit - Power Torque> Does it include everything I need? Also, any good how-to's or DIY tutorials that y'all know about for a first time rebuilder?

Instilling the Novak Cable shifter on an AX-15/NP242 combo I was in need of a new transfer case linkage setup after I replaced my BA-10/5 & NP231 with an AX-15 & NP242. I purchased the Novak Cable Shifter Kit for$195.85 shipped from Novak-Adapt.com. If you don't want to spend nearly $200 on a cable shifter, then take a look at THIS DIY Linkage, I rediscovered it after I ordered my Novak kit. Before I installed my kit I read over Flint54's install thread. I did not do all the modifications he did, such as to the shift gate. I don't know if Novak changed the kit between the time Flint54's installed his kit and I bought mine. The install took about 2 hours. A second person may be needed during the install. I did not need to remove the cross member or lower the transmission to install this kit, however it would have made things simpler. This kit is not exactly "bolt on" if you have a NP242 like me, some modification may be required. If you had Rhino liner sprayed in the cab you may soon regret it as I did. Keep in mind this is for General Instruction. This is how I did the install. This install was on a 1988 Jeep Comanche, 4.0 I6, AX-15, NP242. Also note my MJ does not have all the factory sized bolts as some have been replaced over the years, I may give a bolt size that is different from factory. Tools Required: Saftey Glasses Gloves Box Cutter (If you have Bed liner in the cab) Wrenches (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 1/4, 1/2, 9/16, 15/16, these are what I used) Allen wrenchs Drill Needle nosed plyers Floor Jack (if you decide to remove the crossmember) Start by blocking off the tires and setting the parking break. The Jeep may need to be shifted into neutral during the install. Here are the parts in the Kit: Body side bracket, Transmission bracket, Shifter cable, and a bag containing 4 Allen head bolts, transfer case lever, ball joint of some type, and a clevis yoke. If you haven't already remove the front drive shaft. Use 8mm Socket or wrench to remove the bolts on the front diff yoke and 1/2 wrench for the transfer case yoke bolts. Removed was the body side linkage bracket. It is located on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel. I had the joy of removing bed liner from the bolts holding the body side bracket on. Its a PITA getting that stuff off. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the bracket should fall off. I had to use a wrench to pry the linkage bracket from the shifter bushing. I then used a knife to remove the Bushing it self. Installing the new Novak body bracket did not go on as smoothly as I would have liked. I also needed a second person to put the bolts on while I held the bracket in place. Use an Allen Wrench (sorry not sure what size) to install the body mount. Not all the holes lined up properly, but it did not take much to fix the problem. Next I moved on to the Transfer case lever. Use a 9/16 wrench to remove it. There are some Differences between the stock lever and the Novak lever. As in Flint54's thread I later discovered I needed to add a new hole to the Novak lever. I used a drill bit the same size as the hole... Sorry I don't know what size it is. Before you copy my placement please read THIS thread by Flint54. But After I had everything together I guessed where it needed to be based on the placement of the clevis yoke... The new hole placement between My TC lever and Flint54's lever seem to be about the same. Reinstall the Transfer case lever using the 9/16 wrench or socket. These two bolts will need to be removed with a 9/16 wrench. (I did not have any of the AX-15 linkage brackets.) Place the bracket on the Transfer case studs and replace the bolts. I attached the Cable as instructed in Flint54's install thread. Note: My cable did not line up directly to the Handle lever and Transfer case lever. Both cables are adjusted by two 15/16 nuts. Like in Flint54's Install both cables are installed as to where the aft bolt just has full thread engagement. This picture shows the Transmission mount adjustment. This picture shows the body mount adjustment. Here are how the two ends attach to the handle and transfer case levers. Handle Lever Transfer case Lever Reattach front drive shaft... Now everything should be hooked up. Thus far the biggest difference between My install and Flint54's is the shift gate. I currently have the 231 gate on the truck, I have a 242 gate somewhere I just need to locate it..

Alright guys, I'm going from a 2WD Peugeot (internal slave) to a 4WD AX-15 (external slave) in my recently acquired '88 SporTruck. I've disconnected the lines at the slave end and clamped the hose for the time being. My question is, since I'm going to an external slave, can I just mate the hydraulic line from the Peugeot master to an AX slave? The master cylinder looks to be fairly new (PO said it was, anyway). Just trying to save money if I can because the whole hydraulic system, prefilled, is $100+ on RockAuto. Just the slave is ~$35.

Hello, I remember reading on here that the 2.5L and the 2.8L but have the same bellhousing bolt pattern, so does that mean with a dakota 2,5L bellhousing one could mount a AX-15 to a 2.8L?

I'm interested in buying a project Comanche Jeep. I'm looking to put Dana 60 axles in it and a 4.0L stroker and fresh paint. I have big plans. I need a solid platform. To make my life easier I'd like to start off with a 4.0 engine so I have the wiring harness already and whatnot. I'd like to re-use the stock AX-15 transmission I would like it to be a short bed and if possible it can come factory with 4wd. Also no rust would be a plus. Text me at (631) 806-1839 for any leads, I'm located in Western New York. I don't mind driving within reason to pick one up.

Hey everybody, I've been trying to change the fluid in my '89 4.0 5-speed for about a week now. Started off getting interrupted by surprise storms, then realized I didn't have a 15/16" wrench so I ordered one, then realized I've got a seriously stuck fill plug and it looks like the previous owner lent it to a teething baby 'cause it's all kinds of chewed up. Couldn't get it off with the 15/16" and started doing some research. Been soaking it in a little WD-40 but I'm about to go pick up some PB Blaster. Saw a few mentions of trying a pipe wrench, but that didn't work. Also saw mention of hitting it with a torch but haven't tried that yet. So my question, and I'm hoping it's a very stupid and unnecessary one but it probably can't hurt to ask... Righty tighty, lefty loosey, correct? Been trying to remove the plug in the direction I'd expect it to loosen, but I'm going to feel like a real idiot if this thing is threaded the other way for some reason. Also should mention that I haven't drained the fluid so I'm not in a position where I've had to pull the shifter and fill it that way, and the truck shifts fine, but I bought it last month and I have no idea when it was last changed so I'd sure like to get it done. Thanks in advance!

I am looking for a Comanche. As of right now I have a 2001 xj and have always wanted an MJ but due to going to college and paying for it all by myself its hard. I would like to find a 87-91 Mj with a 4.0 and AX-15 4 wheel drive. Preferably drivable miles don't matter. I appreciate everyone's help.

What Jeeps can I pull a 231 transfer case from for a successful mate to an AX-15 transmission? (Note: the AX-15 in possession is from a '96 XJ) In my research, I have found out that the AX-15 has a 23 spline output shaft and the 231 needed has to have a short nosed 23 spline input. Is this correct? Gurus, please bestow some information upon this noob. :bowdown:

I really would like to find a whole jeep with similar drive-train option I currently have making for easy swap. PM or post if east coast going to need to be shipped,trailed,ect. let me know what you guys got, thanks.

I just got back from picking this bad boy up... It's an AX-15 from a '96 XJ that the seller claims was rebuilt within the last year or so. No bellhousing unfortunately, but I did get the crossmember and a few various other parts. All for $175. This is the start of my '86 2.5L/AX-4 to 4.0L/AX-15 swap. I posted this in MJ tech because I need to clarify some things and I'm hoping y'all can help me out. First, I know I need to find a bellhousing, shift fork, external slave and all that stuff. The thing I'm not sure of is if a NP231 from an '88 or '90 XJ will bolt to this transmission since I'm not sure what each of the spline counts are for an '88, '90 and '96 transfer case. So, does anyone here know for sure? Also, the rear driveshaft is going to be concerning. What do I need to know about that? I should also note that I'm thinking about getting a C8.25 and welding on SUA leaf perches. Also would like to know what gears would work best with an 4.0L/AX-15 combo. I know that stock used 3.07s commonly. I want to make this the most fuel efficient Jeep I can make it. At this moment, I have no intention of lifting or running larger that 215 tires. Also, any writeups on the subject are greatly appreciated. I should also note that I am pulling the engine, computer and all from a '90 XJ with an automatic transmission. Is that going to cause any issues?

In a few I am going down to a buddy's shop and attempt to install the Novak Cable shifter. I will have to drop the tranny a few inches to get it installed. i will take pics and add commentary. Be back soon! http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm

Welp I get to put a new internal slave in my ax-15 soon as I can tell mine is slowly dying, I've replaced the master and hydraulic line already and bled the system multiple times but the pedal still occasionally goes straight to the floor and brake fluid leaks out of my bellhousing slowly but surely.... but the question is which brand would you guys recommend as I've read that some only lasted a short period of time before going ka-put