TNT

It will. :D My goal is tight accuate sub performance. :chillin: It can pound, but I'm not building a boomer... :brows:

Do you have estimates for them?

That box would work with a Cadence Wild Beast sub if it has enough depth. They are awesome. They reccomend a 1.5 cu.ft. box for a purest, a 1 cu. ft. as normal listener or even a .88 cu. ft. sealed box for a boomer. The 3" of woofer travel each sub has is just nuts. When the subs are in a ported box they reccomend a 1.75 cu. ft. box with a round 3"x7.5" long port per speaker. For SPL competition they reccomend 2.5 cu. ft. box with a 5"x5"x12.83" port or up to a 3.5 cu. ft. box with a 8"x9"x11.75" port. Thats per sub... :eek: Most people don't know about Cadence. They break world records for SPL and are total quality. They are big in Europe. ;) Ported for max SPL, sealed for best SQL. :chillin: For the price they can't be beat. :D My amps were $395.00 list price each. I got a great deal. :yes: They are 20" long and 10" wide and about 15 pounds each. Between just the amps and speakers I'll be adding 100 pounds or more to the MJ. Thats not counting the sub boxes or fiberglass/ MDF door speaker pods. :brows:

:agree: My kids could do anything to our German Sheperd and he never c ared . They rode him jumped all over him it didn't matter. If a stranger got close to my kids he would stand his ground inbetween them with his teeth barred in attack mode. It was great to know my kids where protected. He never bit anyone. He wouldn't wag his tail in the house because he knew it would knock stuff over. At 125 pounds he was intimidating but a big sweet dog. He was trained in german so he wouldn't listen to other people.

I'm building some 1.5 cu. ft. sealed boxes for very tight accuate bass for the behind the front seats as my back massager.

That Walmart Sony sub is childs play. :rotf: I'm setting up 2 Cadence Wild Beast 12" 700 watt RMS rated subs with 3" of excursion in my MJ behind the front seats as my back massager. They weigh 25 pounds each. They are 2008 models that only cost $99.00 each with free shipping. :thumbsup: Image Not Found Each sub will be powered by its own Cadence Q2300 amp bridged into mono for 500 watts of RMS power each. I got a great deal on them. :brows: Image Not Found I'll be using another Q2300 amp in stereo at 175 watt RMS into two channels powering a pair of Cadence TXC-6K 6.5" components speakers rated at 90 watt RMS at 2 ohm per channel in each front door. Each door will have a pair of the Cadence speakers mounted in custom fiberglass/MDF door speaker pods I'm building. :D Image Not Found I have a good 2 year old Sony head unit for now until I can get a new Alpine or such. I want it to have HD & satellite radio, an I-pod hook up, a front USB port and 3 sets of RCA outs like the Sony has. I won't be using any other speakers then the subs in the back. My goal is to have a nice front sound stage so it sounds like I'm at a concert. I think 1350 watts RMS should be enough to cover up the tire and engine noise. :yes: :cheers:

I'm glad you are ok. As an ex-tech with 15 years of experence this is what I would do. Take it to the two or three best shops in the area and have it checked out. It could have some hidden damage and from how it looks the tire had to take some of the impact. All of the front end and unibody should be inspected. Take the two highest estimates and go from there. If you feel stiff or sore from the accident get checked out. There is no reason to take any chances or give him a break. :no: Auction body shops do a slap it together and make it look good type of job. :nuts: A real bodyshop will replace the fender and paint the hood, bumper and door to blend it all in. My guess is about $2500.00 to fix it right.

31"x10.50" tires will fit with minor plastic trim on stock rims and WJ LCA's (minor tire rub on spring tower when fully flexed and no other tire rub when turned) 31"X10.5'" tires with 15"X7" or 8" rims that have 4" of backspacing instead of the stock 5.5" backspacing would be good for you're goal. Extra trimming required (not difficult). No tire rub when fully flexed or turned) 32"x11.50" tires tires on 15x8" rims cut front fenders with flares raised to the bodyline. Thïs would look good and handle good. (More difficult, but worth the work). 33"x10.50"tire and 3.5" of lift on my old '95 XJ. Flares raised to the body line (with stock rims) Image Not Found Tire stuffed (no tire rub even when steered lock to lock with 15"x7" rims with 4" of backspacing and 11.7" travel shocks with 5.5" of lift). It still cleared with 3.5"of lift, 9.5" travel shocks and 2" bumpstops. Filled gap Inner fender liner (Stock inner liner cut down and rewoked some heat gun) My write-up on MadXJ http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/TPfenderFlares/FenderFlares.htm With the way the fenders are cut the 33" tires fit without any lift as long as the sway bar was hooked up. :cheers:

Screen Name = Skirt Lifter (thats one way to get in jail...) :shake: Real Name = Queer Johnny (not a chance in heII) :rant: Screen Name + Last Name = Dirt Devil (sounds like a good name for the MJ) :chillin: :cheers:

Worst thing you can ever do. DO NOT DRILL ANOTHER HOLE! It WILL elongate and crack, than your screwed. Also using a drop bracket throws off the geometry of the trackbar in relation to the draglink and WILL cause bumpsteer. Do it right the first time, even if it costs more money. What you save now, you'll end up fixing later and it'll cost you more. You'll thank yourself later for going with a quality lift system. On my '94 XJ with 3" of lift I trimmed the very end of the axle mount and added a brace to the axle mount before I drilled a new hole. It's been 11 years and 80K with no problem and I still have the same stock trackbar that was on it when I bought it. It has never came loose when offroad and the hole still looks perfect. :brows: It's all about how you do it. ;) On my '95 XJ with 5.5"of lift I replaced the trackbar with a Rubicon Express one. I had issues with it coming loose with brand new factory hardware used after the problem. I beefed up the bracket over-torqued the bolt nad the problem was fixed. I did need a torch to get it loose again. So it got a new bushing and hardware after that... :nuts:

:needpics:

A spring shop here in Milwaukee has stock springs on hand. They can also order in the other different spring rate choices. For some extra money they can get all of the choices of load range springs from Stanley Springs too.

DO IT...Just DO IT..... :cheers:

Rebuild it and turn it into a turbo engine. Build it for about 15-20psi with an intercooler and meth injection. It would be about 400hp. Use an AMS stand alone computer and hang on.

Greaseable shackle and rear spring eye bushings help flex and ride with the proper shackle angle. This will allow the spring to flex freely. Keep the front spring eye rubber to absorb road shock and impact forces.

I relocated my upper shackle mounting hole to increase my angle. It made a noticable difference in ride and flex. I could fully flex 16" travel shocks. Now I just need some... Image Not Found Anything less then 15 degrees will ride harsh because the spring causes the body to need to rise over bumps.

a flat bed..... :brows: a custom stepside bed????

I'd bet they all put cheap AALs into old packs .... which is a bad idea. I put mine in sagged 65k stock leafs on my XJ with no problem and I also removed 1 stock leaf. Mine are still great....

My '94 XJ has 11 year old 3" RE full length AAL and they started with 4"of lift and settled to 3"of lift. They have about 70k on them. It has to do more with the quaility of the AAL then anything else.

The O2 sensor could also be the cause of a lean condition. It is what tells the engine if it is running lean or rich.

x2 :yes: I know where there is a Dakota one for $40.00 if I remember correctly.....

What to do........ I have to sell some of this stuff and get some Cadence Wild Beast subs.

If they are the one out of my 95 XJ they are way more comfortable then the old style ones in my 94 XJ..... :brows:

I have a 94 XJ and had a 95 XJ(I think JeepcoMJ has it now). You will have to grind down the tabs, The newer XJ's don't have any. I would clean the opening up, prime it with rustolum rusty metal primer since it has zinc in it. Then use the rustolum paint meant to prevent rust. I painted shocks like that and it lasted for many years. They still look good. Just mask the body to prevent over spray. The first new one they installed had distorted glass and was crooked leaving a gap. They put a new one in and fixed all the problems.

The gasket replaces the old trim. There is no need for trim with the new style gasket, it doesn't use any. :brows: