TNT

I'm leaning towards the blue MJ's style with the window, but I still could make longer with a larger window fo even less of a blind spot. Having the 8.5" longer doors will already help the blind spot too. I can add about 16" total using both cab backs. I'll have to go to the scrap yard and measure some windows with the frames. It will have a rollcage.

I could drive a Toyota Presis across the that section of offroad the semi was in... The only dirt that Hummer will probably see is when it backs into the neighbors flower bed. :banana: :cheers:

WHY? I'm not building one.. That X-Cab Short Box is just a short box truck with a longer cab, the box shorted behind the cab and a bobbed bed. :dunno: I'm going to probably go with the blue or green MJ. I can make blue MJ cab longer to fit a different style or size window too. Both the blue and green MJ's have bobbed beds. My wheelbase is staying the same and I will bobbing the bed just after the shackles. :cheers:

I could do this. Image Not Found or the X-Cab Short box on the bottom with longer doors. Image Not Found

ground strap. mine did the same thing. radio would flicker and engine would cut out when i hit bumps or something and finally it quite. so i put a new one on and it works fine now It was a bad battery. Everything will have new grounds and as many factory body seams as possible will be fully welded.

For window I could use an XJ rear door fixed glass piece and keep the stock vent. A fixed Ranger window or maybe something like a Dakota window which opens. If I do eliminate the vent I will use a B piller vent from a 2 door XJ. If you know of a good doner from a different truck let me know. :D Make your chose and if you want to see glass give me some ideas. :cheers:

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:cheers:

I think I'm really glad you're plating the frame and caging it lol. (and that you're not doing this to my MJ) keep up the good work buddy. Why mine will have wider axles and not much more lift then you. I could stuff a 40" tire with 4+ inches of room to clear it in front and behind it Remember my flares are rasied 5" and rewoked to fit.

Since I'm swaping to leaf spring I decided to get crazy. See my post in my build thread. I should have posted it the first time... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6161&p=146799#p146799

Thats a great find. :D Only it's way too tall. :nuts: I could stuff 38" tires with 6-8 inches of lift. ;) You just need to get creative. :brows: I'll give you a quick rundown of what I would do wheel it and make it last Front 1) Remove the upper shackle mount and use a big peice of 4"x6"angle this would raise the shackles to the correct height. 2) Next I would correct the shackle angle so it angles about 50 degrees toward the rear on the new shackle mount. This will improve ride and flex. 3) I would take the rear spring mount and and build a custom mount to french it into the frame rails.This will lower it even more. 4) I would sell the Bushwackers to someone running 33"-35" tires. Sell them and get some stock wheel flares. 5) Now would be the time to open the wheelwell up a ton. I'll post a picture of my latest work and my 5" raised and reworked later. 6) After that I would plate the front frame since it was never designed to take the stress leaf springs add to them. 7) Swap in a HP D60 with 5.13 gears and a locker. Rear 1) Get rid the rear spring blocks 2) Cut the rear fenders and inner wheelwell. 3) Swap in a shaved 5.13 geared 14bolt axle with a locker. I've got more but I that will keep you busy.

Putting it in power mode and leaving it there is the best thing you can do for your transmission other then changing its fluid. :cheers:

The light pulls out about 10 feet (?) and has a magnetic side to it so it can be attached to any metal part, kind off cool. So WHERE does the power-source wire of this engine-compartment light connect? I just grabbed one off of a 1988 Cherokee, but the power wire was snipped... Thanks! :cheers: Paul My recently purchased used underhood light has no spring retraction. Has anyone taken one of these lights apart? Thanks, Paul Read page one. :cheers:

If you have a half tank add i gallon of Toulene to it. It is one of the main additives in fuel. I used this in my turbo car at one gallon of 93 octaine premium to five gallons and was able to up the boost 5 psi. :chillin: My one XJ sat for 3 years with 3/4's of a tank of gas. It would hardly run after fighting with it to start. I went to the hardware store and bought 2 gallons of toulene and it ran great. :brows: Toulene is about 112 octane. I add about two ounce's of trans fluid per gallon of Toulene just to give it some lubrication. They used to run 98% Toulene and 2% lubricants in Formula One cars. Most hardware stores carry it. :cheers:

Pat just dropped off the cab section today. Last weekend he took my cap and put it in storage. I sold him my 4.0HO and AW-4 with 3k miles on it that I was going to use. He got everything from the entire '95 XJ from the complete wiring, overhead console PW's, PL's, steering column, dash, cluster and a whole bunch more. :cheers:

On Thursday is was $1.84 in East Troy for non-ethanol 89 octane gas.

The dye is for showing the pictures of the blood moving. It sounds like you are going to run to me. :D :cheers:

Good to hear everything is turning out good for you. :yes: I always have to run on the treadmill for my stress tests. My target heart rate is 165 bpm. I feel crap when its done. I don't run anywhere else, it hurts my back too much. Next time I'm going to try to get the drug induced heart rate stress test. :cheers:

Stop by I know you could swap boxes. :brows: You might even get a roll cage for in the cab. :D

You know my answer already. :brows: I have the saws and cutters waiting to cut the box. ;) We can raise the the front flares to the bodyline so your tires won't rub anymore. :chillin: :cheers:

Looks like it could be brighter... Time to kick it up some. :brows: Now order a LED high output replacement bulb for that light and make it way brighter. :yes: I put in old school higher output bulbs instead of the standard wattage bulb in mine. I switched all of lights to 1156 bulbs. My hood mounted lights are steel so the heat won't effect them. I'm concerned with the Chevy light melting. I'm swapping LED bulbs in as I can afford to... 89 bulb is 6 watts, 6 candle power and draws .58 amp draw 93 bulb is 6 watts, 15 candle power and draws 1.04 amp draw 1156 bulb is 27 watts, 32 candle power and draws 2.10 amp draw For my Chevy underhood light I'm switching to a 130 degree wide angle LED to a 130 degree wide angle LED. The light I'm using 1156 High Power 5 Watt Luxeon LED 7000K output. It will look like a HID light. Draw is only 185mA with up to a 50,000 hour life span. I'm switching the 2 underhood mounted lights to a 130 degree wide angle LEDS to a 180 degree wide angle LED and painting the reflectors for better preformance. The light I'm using 1156 High Power 5 Watt Luxeon LED 7000K output. It will look like a HID light. Draw is only 200mA with up to a 50,000 hour life span. Here's a link http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/115x-xLX3.htm I think I'll be replacing a bunch of my other lights also.

I'm facing a minimum of two months off of work and you think I should buy a laptop??? :shake: :dunno: :shake: (All "extra" monies come from overtime, sitting on my arse means no overtime!! :ack: :ack: ) CW That sucks.... :shake: I have 5-6 months off of work for another back fusion. :roll: Talk about being upside down for money. My STD won't even pay the bills. My LTD pays more but then I'll be using cobra to keep insurance. At least I should be able to use the computer while I'm off if I can sit here with the brace. Ask some buddys or see if someone on the board will borrow you a laptop. I don't watch almost any cable TV so without the computer I'd go nuts. :wall: If not I'd have to get a wireless keyboard and mouse to use with my 35" widescreen HDTV as a monitor.

I'm glad to hear you are doing ok. I was 40 years old when they put a stent in my widowmaker(the same one as you had done I believe). I started to feel funny a couple of days later and found out I was getting a clot in my stent. After two days in the hospital on tons of blood thinners I was released. I also had two heart oblations done to fix the Supraventricular Tachycardia (SVT) I also had. It is a type of heart rhythm abnormalitie. The first one was when I was 38 years old and the other the day after the did my stent. The first oblation made my SVT's worse, the second one fixed them. I have had five cardiac catheterizations done over the years. My cholesterol has always been good and about only cause I have found was not doing a good enough job with tooth care. Keep your teeth very clean because they can cause problems. I have some other blockage in my heart and have went on a regiment of taking two 500mg Slo-Niacin(slow release) at bedtime. My blockage was 70% but they didn't fix it because the risk of having a heart attack is higher then trying other things to help out. Taking the two 500mg Slo-Niacin at bedtime has reduced my blockage to 45% in 4 months. So I they have me take one 81mg aspirin, a multivitamin and one 75mg Plavix in the morning. At night I just take the two Slo-Niacin right before bed. They had me start taking one Slo-Niacin at night for a week and 2 after that. I had some side effects from the Niacin like hot flashes and not sleeping as well, but they went away after about two weeks. That combined with proper diet and exercise is how I handle it. My bad back makes exercise too hard do like I should and the pain medications kill my metabolism slow down which makes weight loss hard. Always ask your heart doctor before taking new medications or vitamins. Have fun removing the pressure bandage. Welcome to the Cardio-Club. ;) I hope everything goes well. :thumbsup:

I want to build it like this because my back is bad. Once it's done it will allow me to be lazy which is the goal. I'll let it do the work.

My MJ build plans have totally changed. Since I decided that my MJ will be a work truck to make my life these are the updated plan. It will have a '94 XJ 4.0 HO engine, a AW-4 transmission and a NP242 wide chain transfer case. Some of the other changes are a front HP44, a rear 9"rear axle, some QR78-15's (35.5" tall)with 5" of lift, a fully plated frame, front military wraped leaf springs and some serious front fender work. :brows: . I'm trying to find a used 8' Fisher plow blade because I like their design. Part of the plan is a slightly dovetailed flatbed that will also be converted to a dump bed in the future. I'll also make an easily removeable lower custom plow carriage that will have rear mounts running under the axle and attaching to the the frame rail under the drivers seat. It's great to be able to control the blade when shifting. I built basicly the same style controls for a stick shift plow truck I built years ago that I will be using for my MJ. My design will have plow controls with electronic 4 momentary micro switches which will custom mounted to the auto shifter shaft just below the shifter handle. They will control relays to operate solenoids that will control the hydraulic valves. It will be powered by a heavy duty hydraulic pump with a clutch like an AC pump uses. The hydraulic system will power the dump bed, front and rear winches in the future. The design includes a left side rear mounted hydraulic hoist to lift heavy objects in to the bed and it will pivot on bearings. The AC compressor will become on board air capable of running air tools and have quick disconnects front and rear. It will have a front air locker and 5.13 gears It will also be running dual XJ fuel tanks, custom bumpers, weld in rock rails and more. Then I'll get more play time in the snow. I'll be starting some of this before my back surgery and finishing it after recovery. I'll update the post with more plan and pictues as work progresses. :cheers: