TNT

Rusty's site show they use a 3" inlet also.

A 3" inlet cone type air filter is a great deal!!! They are overstocked or closeouts... :dunno: http://store.edelbrock.com/15019aircleanerelement.aspx :cheers:

But are you going to be their to explain it when they try to pass laws against us. :dunno: A picture can say a thousand words and from the way that picture looks none of the words would be yours. :nuts:

The gasket will fit. The changeover was because of the airbag. The gasket gets glued in and the glass gets glued to it. This keeps the windshied in if you have an accident.

Please don't post picture of illegal places to wheel. It's like loading the gun for them. :doh: Even if it it is legal because you have written permission to be there, the picture showing the street in just more ammo against us. :no: Btw congrats on the MJ. :cheers: Please delete the street shot at least, legal places are harded and harder to find.... I'll change my post after that.

Just a small update. I have been collecting parts for the stereo. I now have a Pioneer 6.5 coax speakers for the rear XJ sound bar for rear fill. For the front I have Polk DB6501 6.5" coax speakers, 2 sets of Blaupunkt PCCB660 6.75" component speakers and a set of a Vifa tweeters I might use.

Sounds good. Recovery is slow that's why I'm up this late, more pain pills. My body tells me when 4 hours have gone by. I'm off of work until April 14th minimum now. Just give me a call sometime, I'm a prisioner here since I can't drive. BTW I need the number for the guy with the V-8 for me.

As my one teacher always says, "Life sucks, then you die." Very depressing quote IMO, but if you think about it, it really is true! :D My signiture tells the truth, Here is another signiture I use sometimes. Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever. –Mahatma Gandhi

I walked down the stairs and out to the garage to look at it.... :roll: I just got out of the hospital from a lower back fusion and can't work on it or even drive for 3-4 months... But i do get to wear a brace from he11. :shake: So now there is 11 more degenerated discs, my fresh lower back 3 level fusion and a 5 year old 4 level neck fusion. Even worse, all the nurses were ugly... I had only one nice one but she put me out cold after about 2 minutes. I also found out I have the lungs of a 70 year old man.... I'm 42... Life just sucks sometimes. :wall: There are 2 places I can sit in the house, the kitchen table or the computer chair. I don't even feel like posting. or even surfing. I guess its time for more oxycodin and about 4 other pills so I don't care anymore. Rant off...

I'm going to go try and finish it shortly... Just waiting on the Perc's to kick in. :cheers:

As for sensors I agree, when I buy plug wires they are stock OE or Mopar Performance.

I have the header panel cut off below the headlight and finshed welding in the front of the wheelwell. I stripped off the rust and have it ready for primer. All thet is left is finishing the rear of the wheelwell, The A-piller is cut and the front of the rocker is completely cut off. I should be able to fill the last spots on the wheelwell by the rocker, blend it and prime it tomorrow. I'll post up some pictures when it's done.

Bump for the night time crew.

Thats what i did. the first time, ill look into having it balanced. But other than that I'm just gonna take it apart and throw it back together. Well TNT what is it called then? Cuz all over the internet its called Center something...... I would like to order the part and not have the guys at the parts store scratching his head like he thinks I'm crazy. A double cardan style driveline places two u-joints near the t-case which allows the upper end to maintain the proper u-joint angles by dividing the angle between two joints instead of one. It uses a centering ball and yoke between the u-joints. They both do about the same job but are designed totally different. Here is a double cardan joint. Here is a CV joint.

No Check al your spings, shackles and bushings. Post back if everything is good.

The dealership is the best place to buy one. Quality varies too much on aftermarket ones. :cheers:

He has a double cardan joint. A CV joint stands for constant velocity joint. He has a double cardan joint. A FWD car uses CV joint enclosed by a a convoluted boot. Many people use these words interchangeably which is incorrect.

Bushwacker flares and an ARB Safari snorkel don't fit well with each other. The flare needs to be cut or modified. here's a Bushwacker flare. (Pictures from Swedish MJ -88 build thread) http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12035&start=0 here's his Bushwacker flare with an ARB Safari snorkel. Here are some pictures of the Airflow snorkle.(pictures from http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/ ) He has a ton of good tech on his site. Drivers side snorkle. Here's the link to the thread. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSnorkelInstall1.htm Passenger side snorkle. Here's the link to the thread. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDieselSnorkel1.htm None of them will work for me because I cut my fenders too much, raise the flare too high ands rework the inner fender too far. Here's a link from MadXJ http://www.madxj.com/ another great site. It shows hows Jeff did a air filter conversion after adding an AC compresor the was converted to an air compressor and relocating the battery relocated to the drivers side. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAairIntake/AirIntake.htm I thought someone might like the info. :cheers:

Thanks :cheers:

That would be sweet. I got a flash burn(welder) today :doh: and will probably stay indoors tomorrow. Overall height in the front, hieght in the rear, the width at the top and width at the bottom of the glass would be great. The appoximate amount of room needed for the hinge and steel frame work would be the bomb. :yes: Thanks. If it seems good I'll track one down local. :cheers:

They didn't have one that I could measure. That looks like the best choice for me. I'll have to get some measurements. If not it will get a XJ fixed rear door glass with the MJ vent behind it like the X-Cab Short Box. I might be able to make the XJ glass roll up and down using parts of the doors and a power window motor. I would have the rear springs turned around to add some wheelbase. It would look too strange otherwise. I would add a traction bar and customize the spring pack some. It will also get custom shackles and be SOA. The bed will be about 4' long and end just after the rear spring eye since the upper shackle will be further forward and above the frame rail. I plan on keeping the rear spring eye as close to the bottom of the frame rail as possible.

If I do double stack the cab I will probably reverse the rear spings and mount a nice HD traction bar. The box would be to short and look wrong since the rear tire would be too close to the cab. The box will still get bobbed, have comp cut fenders and might also be dovetailed also.

I'm think I just going to double the rear up for maximum room. The newer one I like. Do they open up like a vent window also? :cheers:

I thinking the double MJ cab would be the way to go. With the 2 door XJ doors and a doubled up rear cab section Ill gain about 16". 6" will bee for leg room and the rest for subs, amps and storage. It will have enough room for some 12" subs in sealed box firing directly at the seat back will be great. I have a 500 watt RMS amp to power them. I'll use some 6.5" speakers in a XJ sound bar I have for rear fill powered by the stereo. Up front a pair of 6.5" mid bass speakers and a set of 6.5" componant speakers will be used. I'll build some custom enclosues for them and power them with a 250 watt RMS amp. The stero is a Sony with 3 pairs of rca outs. I'll use capactiors for all the speakers that the stereo powers. Up front the stereo will power a pair of speaker that fit the dash mounts and a extra set of tweeters I have here. It wll have power windows and locks so I don't have to chance hurting my back by reaching across. I'm going to do a V-8 swap, hopefully the guy still has the 400hp 340 Mopar engine. It used to be a mud racer and was in a red MJ so it should feel at home. It needs a new solid lifter cam and I will rebuild it at the same time. I'm sticking with a solid lifter cam. I love a engine that can rev. I'll use a built TF727 with a Art Carr reverse valve body and about a 2700 RPM torque converter. A drivers side drop Jeep NP208 transfer case will also be used. The front HP D44 and the rear 9" axles will have 5.13 gearing. The 9" will be spooled and the front I haven't decided which one I want to use yet.

I'll have to see if my buddy over at the scrap yard has Dakota rear vent windows that open or any other ones that open. If not I because I'll probably use Ranger fixed rear window or any fixed windows that work that will fit. A rear window thats a vent style is a plus beause ít just going to have a plain jane heater and controls. My back is trashed and gainig about 6" of exta seat movement would be great. I thinking the double MJ cab would be the way to go since it will have enough room for some 12" subs in sealed box firing directly at the seat back will be great.