TNT

I run RS9009 shocks up front with lowered lower shock mounts. They have 11.8"of travel if I remember correctly. They are meant to be used in dual shock set-ups. The adjustment range is from softer then any other shock I have seen to stiffer then the stiffest RS5000's I have ever seen. They ride great and work awsome offroad as well.

I figured out what to do with the blue plug wires... :idea: Put some pretty pink wire loom on them. :brows: It would make your paint choices look so special. :rotf: :cheers:

The plug wires are Mopar Performance. If you don't use them let me know, They only have 3k on them.

Is that because you didn't use the '95 trans or because the firewall is different?

I set him up with basically every part be needs. He has all the harnesses, computers, steering column, and all the good $#!& you can imagine and parts you can't too, :brows: That engine was great and with 3,000 miles it was just broken in. I shouldn't have sold it, but Pats a stand-up guy and I know he will enjoy it. :yes: Now that he has done one swap, he can help swap my '94 XJ parts onto my MJ no problem. ;)

I was out west near Denver about 7 years ago and they were stopping traffic. They where sending everyone back if they didn't use cables/chains or appoved tires. My 33x10.50 BFG AT KO's have the snow flake on the sidewall which is the DOT's way of marking tires that are rated for no chains or cables needed. They waved me on to continue since my tires are DOT approved and I didn't have any problems. I have used chains about 10 years ago and they were great. They also are hard on the driveline. I broke a D7O axle about 5 minutes after putting on the chains to plow some deep snow with a 1-ton that was full of salt and a 480HP big block. Other then that I have used them a few times without any issues. Some chains are designed differenltly and are more aggessive untill they wear down.

Now if I can get him to plate the frame and stiffen the chassis up. It will be way more fun to blast at speed and also eliminate frame cracking. :thumbsup: I have the templates. :D He does owe me a seat riding shotgun on a wheeling trip when its all done.. :brows: He refuses to ride with me when I drive thou... :shake: His 3.8 will be sweet as a boosted, lifted extended cab shortbox MJ. :cheers: Sometimes being under pressure is a blast.

I have templates for cutting out frame stiffening plates that run from the front bumper to the back of the cab. They are for a MJ and are for 3 sides of the frame. One is for the outside rail of the frame, one for the bottom rail and one for the inside frame rail. They also have templates that box the frame in the engine compartment. They aren't mine, but I will be making a copy. :chillin: I plan on making the templates that will complete the templates needed for plating for a SWB MJ to the rear of the frame. I might also plate the top of the frame from the cab back and inside the cab too. They are designed to be cut out of a sheet of 1/8'" steel. This is easily formed to the contours on the frame and are more then stong enough for any use. Lots of welding required. :brows:

dam tnt if you could just pack everything and be my next door neighbor i'll do the work and get you some venison in my spare time btw the admiral (wife) my have an issue :laughin: id figure if your wife and my wife get together the can :rant: what the hell them boys are up to now because they can :brows: and she has been by my side going on 24 years now Tempting offer. The weather is probably nicer by you too. How about you vacation here and I send my wife down by yours on vacation for a while??? 21 years and she thinks I'm going to give up all my hobbies/interests.... :rant:

I have been for long rides in a 4th generation Prelude and have driven one for a few hundred miles. I was happy with them but would probably buy new front seats. The pain doesn't drive me as crazy as trying to do something and just being able to look at it. I have a fully set-up shop, tons of tools and not much I can do with them. It drives me crazy. I take between 10-25 pills a day to deal with the pain most of the time... I can get a nice '92 Prelude with a bad H23 for $300 and should be getting a 96 Prelude 2.2 VTEC with a light hit to use as a parts car. It will be lowered have a built suspension and big brakes with some good light wheels and tires. It will be caged and have 5 point seat belts. I might buy a Hans set-up so I can autocross and do track days. It will also be turbocharged and have a bunch of other mods done over time. Any good info would be great. After I start driving the Prelude a fund will me started for a M3 in four or five years.

Life sucks lately, My back is worse then ever, I'm having a hard time just doing up keep on my XJ. I'm having a hard time at work and the price my prescriptions, gas and my back pain is making it so I might just give up my project to save my back and pay bills. I getting a Ford HP D60 DRW and a D80 with factory discs for less then the price a HP D60 costs normally costs. I'm going to get the HP D60 to resell but I'm not sure about getting the D80 to resell also. It's a sweet beefy axle thou. I'm going to be selling a bunch of other parts. I have a ton. Locals CC members here will have first pick. I won't be shipping heavy parts, so pick-up here on big parts is how you'll get them. I also have a '77 Ford HP D44 and a couple of 9" axles. For the MJ I might keep it and running 33's with 2" of lift, cut fenders and stock bumpstops. I just can't cause more damage to my back building it a much. I think wheeling anymore is out of the question. As a driver, I have a couple of Honda Preludes, one with a blown 2.3 and the other with a good 2.2 VTEC I'm getting to make one out of. Good MPG and great handing once its done. I might just sell it all and move south... I mean all my parts(I have tons of them) the MJ and my XJ. I might sell some tools too. Getting old and trashing my back sucks... Latest MRI shows noticable degeneration in every disk in my back, five bulging discs, a bunch of bone spurs and more. That's all for now... :cry:

Leaf springs can also suffer from death wobble...

I had a 300HP/375#of torque '05 Dodge Neon SRT-4 ACR. Front wheel drive with a Quaife limited slip. I built it and it was a 12 second car that was great for autocross or at Road America 165mph on the back straight was a blast. Never lost to a old muscle car like a 69 Vette with a 427 tri-power or a '69 440 Roadrunner. I got beat by a EVO from a dead stop, I beat him 4 times from a roll. I wish I still had it. It didn't sound like a ricer at all.

he has an early series 2wd front axle beam, or a newer series front axle beam. these beams use a 4wd hub with 4wd brakes, BUT instead of an axleshaft, they have a stub shaft in them. without that stub shaft, the wheel bearing would fall apart and you'd lose the wheel and it could kill you (similarly, this is why you NEVER drive a 4wd jeep without the axleshaft installed). X 2 That is a 2wd hub set-up just like JeepcoMJ stated. It is the prefered hub set-up for the guys who race JeepSpeed.

I had a 24"x20"x36" 60 gallon bottom drilled tank with a hand made protein skimmer 20gal hand made trickle filter, 250 GPH pump and with about 10 fish and 7 inverts. I sold it 6 years ago. I plan on building about a 150-200 gallon tank after my daughter finishes college. I'll build my own filtration again. It will be a few years until I get it.

Purple Firefish, but he didn't make it... I think my Flame Angel (the Orange/Red/Black) was beating him up and he jumped out of the tank one evening. http://www.fishlore.com/profile-purplefirefish.htm Sounds like a rough neighborhood in there. I had a 24"x20"x36" 60 gallonbottom drilled tank with a hand made protein skimmer 20gal hand made trickle filter, 250 GPH pump and with about 10 fish and 7 inverts. I sold it 6 years ago. I plan on building about a 150-200 gallon tank after my daughter finishes college. I'll build my own filtration again. It will be a few years until I get it.

Two hours tops using a cheap steel ball joint press and some assorted 3/4" drive sockets. Don't heat the knuckles like th MadXJ write-up shows. Strike the ends of the knuckles on the backside where the joints go threw the knuckle. If you are doing ball joints you should check the axle u-joints and replace them also if they are old or in poor shape. I also recommend Spicer parts be used.

Stock, no, they don't really like it. Stock power they'll hold up for a long time though. The problem is that the CTDs are really easy to get a LOT of power out of, so most people double their horsepower and then are suprised when they cook their trannies. With little more than a shift kit they'll hold up to heavy towing with a mildly upgraded engine without issues. Go a bit farther and you'll want a new TC. Actually, the stock ones suck so bad that it's worth it to buy a new one right away, but they'll survive without. The manuals explode just as easily, but are saved because normally you let off when you shift. There's no real advantage either way. The manual transmissions have a higher torque rating and to get the HO Cummins you have to get a stick. Stick is the way to go.

Me too. I'm on NAXJA every day. It has gotten out of hand, but I consider a lot of the guys good friends. Funny...I've heard a couple of people say, "What ever happened to Eagle?" And I say, "Oh, he's still around". I'm on NAXJA daily also. Like Eagle said it was much better in the begining. I was a member in late 1999, in about 2002 the server crashed and lost 3000 posts of mine. It was much better back then... Thats why this is my favorite board for general discussions and everyday use. I feel like I know some of you. :D

I'm with you about this. :cheers: I also am on the Darkside daily so if I get out of hand just let me know. :brows: This site is at a totally different level and I hope it stays that way. I crave to learn hardcore tech so I am all over the web. Most places I need to weed out the BS posts to learn and broaden my knowledge. Lately I'm studying desert rigs and their suspension designs. :D I just hope this site stays the way it is now,but with even more tech.

Link fixed. That bumpers approach angle pretty much sucks. It's nice to be able to hit the bumper then just slide up and over a ledge. that bumper would stop you dead. The roller fairlead would be easy to trash also. I'm probably going to build up a prerunner bumper with a skid and stinger.

I built this one years ago. On my MJ now. Image Not Found On my XJ a few years ago. Image Not Found XJ side view. The bumper has the same angle and lines up perfectly with the front skid. Image Not Found

That thing is beyond ghey. :nuts: I'm speakless... Wait why not stack another frame or two on so it can fit 44's. :fool:

I just found this while seaching for 9" parts. I thought I would share. It looks like a good upgrade for many people. Real brakes, lockouts or driveplates can be used and true steering choices. New off-road knuckles! Transform late model Jeep Dana 30 axles from junk into gold by bolting Dana 44 "outers" onto new hybrid Dana 30 - 44 knuckles. http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php Model D30001JL (left) Model D30001JR (right) JEEP Heavy Duty Flat Top Dana 30 / Rubicon Knuckles The new Dana 30 / Rubicon 44 knuckle will transform late model Jeep axles into true contenders. The Reid knuckle adapts these axles to use early style Chevy & Jeep Dana 44 "outers". Early outers use tapered roller bearings eliminating the problematic unit bearings and allows standard lockout hubs to be used. Bigger brakes, more lug pattern options, and better aftermarket support come along as part of the conversion. The knuckles are also flat topped and drilled for high steer arm use. Uses stock pre-1987 Dana 44 Chevy or Jeep spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, stub shafts, and lockouts. Fits YJ, TJ, XJ, WJ, ZJ, and MJ Dana 30 axles and TJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles. Easy bolt-on installation with no machining required. Aftermarket high strength stub shafts and lockouts can be used. Eliminates wimpy non-serviceable unit bearings. Adds conventional lockout hubs. Better fuel economy and less wear and tear when in 2 wheel drive. More lug patterns available including 5x5.5, 6x5.5, and 8x6.5. Cast from high strength ductile iron. Beefed up with extra material and ribbing. Flat tops machined and drilled for high steer arms, all angle corrections milled directly into the knuckle. Cast-in DUAL steering stops eliminate bent stop bolts that can cause u-joint and axle failures. Tapered tie rod holes accept factory tie rod ends. Tie rod holes can be drilled to accept 3/4" heim ends. Powder coated bright orange for long lasting looks. Machined to clear CTM u-joints without removing the grease fittings. Just sharing. :cheers:

I really didn't want to stop to hang out out and snap a picture... Maybe I'll take the wifes ride there and snap a picture.