TNT

Well I started removing more parts from my '95 XJ tonight. I need to get it stripped and parted before the MJ can come in the garage. Hopefully My 95 will be finished in a week or two. Tomorrow I have to clean my garage and rearrange and clean the half of my tenents garage I share. That is where the parts cab, box, cap, and all the other big parts are going for now. I think I'll start by stripping the cab and driveline out of the MJ first. After that I will start plating the frame, welding in the front half of the rockrails and lengthening the cab so the 2dr XJ doors fit. Once the cab is done. I'll probably finish up with the frame and start building the box and exo-cage. I could go on about what else I'm doing but I feel like I'm just writting this for myself... WTB a clean 2dr XJ drivers door

I guess I have heard that, but I never remember it because I know the newer ones have a 6-lug pattern. IF the old ones have a 5x4-1/2" circle, and IF the exle is a usable width, then you would need to check the spline count and shaft diameter. Remember, the XJ 8.25 axles were 27-spline with the same shaft diameter as a Dana 35 up through 1996. I believe the beefier 29-spline version showed up in the 1997 XJs. The older ones are hardly worth the effort of welding on new spring perches. The housing and tubes are stronger than a Dana 35 but the shafts aren't, plus they are c-clip axles and the D35 through 1988-1/2 was not a c-clip. They are 5x4.5" bolt pattern from '87-'90, and are 27 spline. The 29 spline count started the same time XJ's started using them. An 8.75" fullsize axle from late 60's to early 70's uses the 5x4.5" bolt pattern, have a removable carrier like a 9" Ford and I believe are stronger then D44's are.

It's the brake switch code that explains wht you aren't locking up the converter. I'm not sure if the switch is the same on a auto as a stick. Find a wiring diagram ang run a test on the brake switch circuit. I bet this is your problem.

It unlocks under heavy throttle, it's not meant to deal with high engine loads. It also unlocks anytime the brake is used.

Looks good. Raised flares to the bodyline will work great for that. Just cut even with the bottom of the turnsignal and continue the cut down on the lower rear so you barely cut the first bolt off. I'll get you pictures of the flare so you can see what to do on it. It's really simple.

Hell ya I couldn't resist reposting it here. :cheers:

Well I should have my second cab and all the door parts I need except for a clean drivers door for my lengthened cab using XJ 2dr front doors. As you can see from my last post I have basicly a final design for my box. It will still get an exo-cage over the cab and the box will be caged and the frontend will tie in also. I don't know if anyone is following my build but I thought I would update it anyway... WTB Clean 2dr XJ drivers door. PM me if you can help me find one.

Then after that you need parts for a 94 XJ, followed by the axle seals for a '79 Bronco 9" rear axle, calipers for a a Monte Carlo, rotors from a 78 CJ-7, a pinion seal for a '77 F-150 HP D44, brake pads for a '81 Dodge W-150 D44 and then get steering parts for a 1 ton Chevy pick-up.

I found this on another site, I thought I'd share.

That wasn't what I had in mind but I really like the looks of it. I meant to take the one on the left and put it on the right side and put the right on the left side. That would put the angle on the outside. I like your choice to mount the vents out wider then most people do. It helps to keep water of of the sensors and the distributer. If I do rear mounted vents that would be where I would put them. I'm going to use a spare hood and make a cowl hood scoop. I also want 2 small vents in the front part of the hood. The front part of the hood is a low pressure area so the small vents will be exhaust vents for the hot air coming threw the radiator. The cowl hood scoop will be used for cold air induction on the passenger side of it and to cool the right side since it produces the most heat from the exhaust header. I might also mount 2 rear vents out wide in the rear. I'm also mounting a power steering cooler under the radiator because my bumper design allows air to flow threw it and should work well for keeping the steering cool.

Here's a link that might help you out some. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

Post up a pic of them swapped from side to side. They might look better that way, who knows.

I changed my filter at 60k and now have 85k. I will be draining the pan and adding an replaceable inline filter in the cooler tube. I'm also adding a temp gauge and a large cooler.

:D :D :D

I debadged my 89 and have one Comanche badge with no bubbles or pitting, the black paint would need to be touched up and the old adhesive needs to be removed and replaced.

Here are some of the bed pictures I have collected. :D Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My radator cap is on the left side so I jack that side up as high as possible to get all the air out. If your cap is in the center jack the front end sky high.

That sounds like there is an air pocket in the cooling system. That also happens if the coolant is low(which I'm sure it's not. Make sure your heater control valve is working. It could also be caused by low coolant flow from a waterpump having the vanes start rusting off and not moving enough coolant at idle.

That is only used for recirculating the air on Max A/C, in all other modes it uses outside air. Did you flush your heater core forward and backward, they tend to plug up. Also make sure your heater control is fully moving it's door. Sometimes the heater control valve in the heater hoses can be a problem also. It keeps hot coolant from entering the heater core on Max A/C and sometimes stick. They can be eliminated which will also improve coolant flow threw the heater core. Your A/C might not be as cold on Max A/C mode thats all. I also found that a good thermostat like a Robertshaw which can also be boughten from Moroso will help is warm up quicker and maintain a constant temperature. They open and close fully within 2-3 degrees of the rating temperature.

Here's my tip on removing the broken screws(too late though). I just mig welded nuts onto the broken screws and they came right out. I would think fiberglass wound be your best choce now.

I have also seen the vanes on the waterpump rust out, causing low coolant flow and overheating. If you have the t-stat out port it out. That combined with a Robertshaw thermostat made a big difference. It warms up faster and once the t-stat opens it mantains a very constant temperature(within 2-3 degrees). I think you can get the same t-stat from Moroso now.

That's a great looking MJ, I like the way the ARB bumper looks with the '97 front end. I bet It would look good with a cap too.... :D

This sounds like what I'm dealing with. ;) Here's my story... I'm probably going to wind up with about 8"-9" of lift or so myself. :roll: I won't know for sure until the build is further along. I plan on running Q78-15 Swampers that are 35.5" tall with 27/32" of tread depth :chillin: . I am cutting my front fenders and inner fenders for max. up travel. I would like 6" of compression travel in the front and about 7" in the rear. For shocks the fronts will be 11"-12" travel shocks and the rear will be 12"-14" travel shocks. I will be mounting my extended shackles 3" higher so they are inside the frame rail to help lower the rear some. The rear has Stanley springs which seem to give 3" of lift. I plan on removing the overload leaf and adding a couple of standard leaves to help deal with spring wrap. It will also get a HD rear bumper to add some wieght and protect the rear springs some since the shackles won't hang as low. I will be using 5.13 geared 65" wide HP D44 axle in the front and a 9" in the rear SOA. I'm hoping my custom box with the XJ fuel tank mounted in it, along with the tool, spare part containers, battery and spare tire in it will make it closer to 7" of lift. I'm also extending the cab to use 2dr XJ doors on the longer cab. My custom box will be pretty heavy which will help also. The front suspension will either be a radius arm or 3 link with a trackbar. The rear will run a traction bar. I'm hoping that the rear will wind up in the 7" range with luck. I'm not a big fan of the almost flat 2wd leaf springs because they are too flat to allow the up travel I want. The wider axles should offset the higher COG and the extra clearance will be nice since I'm used to the XJ's shorter wheelbase. By the time the frame plating is done along with the other work it won't be a lightwieght.

What size tire are you planning to run?

Skyjacker makes 8" coils. Rock Krawler has some 8" coils. Rustys has some 8"-9" coils