mfpdm

Well it just so happens I have one of those animals too, but I don't think these will help too much. I'll snap a better shot tomorrow if you still need it. :cheers:

Been thinking of going this route myself. Freeze 12 Uses the same oil as R12 did and is compatible with R12 systems. The kits can be found on ebay for cheap. :cheers:

Which engine, 4.0 or 2.5? With or without AC? Here's a pic of a 4.0 with AC and a 2.5 without. Best one's I could find in my collection. :cheers:

Yep, that's what I've always have been told. So hey TAZ. I called the dealership in Rapic City today to find out that they did have the part. :clapping: But, was holding it for a customer that had special ordered it. :( The guy there said he would call the guy and see if he still wanted it and call me back. Well, turned out that he did and was on his way to pick it up. :wall: I have to hand it to the parts guy there. You don't find many that would look out for his regular customers. Had it been here, they would have just given it up and screwed the person that ordered it. So, what options have I got for the weatherseal/gasket for the rear? Is there a generic one? :cheers:

Got to love them $500 MJ's. :thumbsup: Looks like it will be a good project for you. :cheers:

:clapping: Can't wait to see this as a, Caught on Video episode. :popcorn:

I sure hope she never becomes a member to the club after a statement like that. Newspaper Headline: Man in Wisconsin run over repeatedly by pink Jeep Comanche. :cheers:

Dude, the nearest local rock would not deter any thug from bashing out a solid rear-glass over a slider any day of the week... :eek: In fact, thugs are more likely to just ignore the rear-glass and simply bust the frontal-door glass over busting your rear-glass. Sliders are better simply because of the breeze they allow... V/R Paul Yeah, I know. But it helps me sleep better at night thinking I'm right. Far as the breeze, that's what AC is for. :thumbsup: :cheers:

If money is going to be a deciding factor than you have a few choices; 1. Go with the cheapest kit you can find that has all that you need and don't look back. 2. Put off lifting the MJ until you've saved enough money to get a better quality lift. 3. Search the major Jeep forum sites on the web for deals on lift components. Craigslist is a great source too and ebay sometimes.(Picked up most of my MJs lift this way, most of it RE.) This may take some time but will save $$. With all the responses, you have a good idea of what you will need for a complete kit. With the two choices that you have presented, I personally wouldn't buy from RRO because of my own dealings with them. The only good thing I see with their kit, is the OME coils, which in no way makes this an OME lift. OME makes good quality coils and shocks, which I believe are designed by ARB. They are the only company I've seen that sells different rated coils depending on your needs and quality of ride your looking for. As for the second one, refer to choice 1 above. All in all it is up to you. Do your research about all the lifts and look how they rate throughout the jeep community. It took me 9 months to finally decide on the lift kit for my TJ. Hope this helps a little and Good Luck with your decision. :cheers:

Well, thanks for all the inputs. I really don't want to go with a used one but I may have too. Taz, I'll check with my jeep dealership to see if they can get that one that's left in the system. Far as having one cut, I figure that might get pricey and the guy that is doing the rest of glass does not do it. He's hooking me up so I really can't go elsewhere. Slider is really not an option because I just don't like the fact it offers an easier way to break in to the truck. Maybe I'll get lucky with some more searching. It's not like I haven't been working on the truck for over a year. :roll: What's a few more weeks. :cheers:

Movie quote, Friar Tuck: Let us open a bottle and do our best to save each other's souls. Azeem: Alas, I am not permitted. Friar Tuck: Fine then, you talk, I'll drink. Friar Tuck: This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption. Let us give praise to our maker and glory to his bounty by learning about... BEER.

Aye shipmate I did. :D The pier has broken loose from the concrete moorings I had on the stanchions and has floated to the top still secured to shoreline tree. AAAAARRRRRGH.... Least I don't have to worry about any tides. The rain be slacking off a bit now though, :bowdown: But now you have to set the anchor watch for your new barge. :D :cheers:

The XJ cluster will swap in just fine. Just make sure the replacement has the same speedo cable clip on the back. If you swap from the same year it should match but nothing is certain. I believe the only full cluster with the column shift indicator built in was on the police packages which also had the higher top speed indicated on the speedo's, 125 I think. Here's a pic with a modded full cluster for the indicator.

Well I have called around locally and no one seems to be able to locate the rear solid glass for the truck. Anyone know of a supplier? Also, you dealership parts guys. Is the rubber for the back glass still availible through the dealership supply chain? My parts list has this as the part #, 55007123. :cheers:

First off, welcome to the club. :cheers: Swapping the cluster as Eagle said is no big deal, but yours is a column shift so you will need a quick mod for that which a few have done on here and I'm sure will chime in. Far as the Pioneer, it's just a trim package that added a few things from the base model. Oh and Eagle, you know nothing is standard for these things. I've seen more idiot lights in the pioneers than full gauges. :D Anyhow, check the floor boards. If you can't pull the carpet to look, look underneath real good. These trucks are know for rusted out floorboards. Especially in the salt belt. Check above the rear wheel wells and cab corners for rust as well. Pull the airbox cover and see how much if any oil is in the filter. If it's soaked, you should be able to get him to come off his firm price a little but the 4.0 is know for blow by so don't sweat it too much. $1200 is not a bad price and from the pic's, it looks worth it. Just inspect the crap out of it. Also look at where it's parked for big puddles of fluid(oil, tranny, coolant, you get the idea.) :cheers:

Good advice even though I don't like it. I guess seeing how this is the first engine that I've broken down, I'm scared of screwing something up. Ok, so I'll pull the pistons and check the rings and post some pic's. I'd planned on checking the timing while putting it back together at which time I'll probably have more questions. Thanks for everyone's help and pulling me through this. :cheers:

I might be wrong and someone chime in if so, but if your just throwing the tranny in neutral, the front and rear are still join together with the tcase. Thus, if one axle is trying to turn, your binding the gears in the tcase, which is probably the source of your noise. Even with the brakes applied, more than likely the rear axle is still trying to turn because of the ride sensing valve not allowing enough juice through to lock them up. :cheers:

I know, but this just sucks :fs1: I'm just ready to get this thing back on the road. So, I'm going to get new mains and rod bearings. Looking at the crank, I see no evidence of wear or damage and the same with the cam. The rings should be fine. So far the only benefit that this engine has given me is that the machine work was done, freeze plugs, and it was clean.

This bargain engine is going to be the death of me. :wall: Well, I pulled it apart, clean all the bearings, coated them with assembly lube, put it all back together, and it was still hard to turn. After a few choice words and scratching my head I noticed something odd. The number on the rear bearing cap was the opposite of all the other numbers. Since it only goes on one way.... THE BEARING CAPS ARE ON BACKWARDS. :fs1: :headpop: :wall: :grrrr: So much for trusting a professionally built engine to be right. If I would have listen to I might have caught this but I was being hardheaded in the fact that a professional put it together. The arrows are just triangles and will point towards the back vice the front. Found an article on another forum that confirms this plus if in doubt, the bearing locks will be on the same side for the block and the cap. Also the white stuff on them is how those bearings came. I guess it's a type of assembly coating to prevent metal to metal contact until the oil gets flowing during first start up. So, should I replace the bearings at this point? The crank has maybe been turned at the most maybe 50 to 100 times between myself and if the shop/PO turned it prior to me getting the motor. Only a couple show the worn off white stuff from the earlier pic's and I found no sign of metal shavings or anything. Or am I being hardheaded again? :???:

Well, mine is the wild thing as well, and please share the secret for keeping the chain tight :bowdown: That's what I have too. I keep buying new chains...even the expensive ones thinking that it was the chain stretching because I didn't buy a good one, but they still will not stay tight for more than 5-6 cuts... :shake: Well you need to get a ..... nah I won't BS yall. :D Basically it's keeping the chain sharp, well oiled, and not trying to force the saw. As someone said above this is the home owner version so take it slow. I've have two chains and swapp them every once in awhile but have a little hand sharpener that keeps them sharp. Takes about 5 mins to do the chain on the saw. Don't get me wrong I still have to tighen it about 2-3 times per tank of gas. It will also depend on what type of wood your cutting. Sappy ole pine is the worst for loosening the chain. I use it probably 3-4 times a year. More if we get a hurricane. I've pretty much cut all the neighbors un-wanted trees down, so it's sees less and less use. That and I'm getting to old to get my @ss up the tree to top them out. :D Oh yeah, if I did a lot more cutting, I'd get a husqvarna. Best saw out there for the professional IMO. :cheers:

Well, mine is the wild thing as well, and please share the secret for keeping the chain tight :bowdown: That's what I have too. I keep buying new chains...even the expensive ones thinking that it was the chain stretching because I didn't buy a good one, but they still will not stay tight for more than 5-6 cuts... :shake: Well you need to get a ..... nah I won't BS yall. :D Basically it's keeping the chain sharp, well oiled, and not trying to force the saw. As someone said above this is the home owner version so take it slow. I've have two chains and swapp them every once in awhile but have a little hand sharpener that keeps them sharp. Takes about 5 mins to do the chain on the saw. Don't get me wrong I still have to tighen it about 2-3 times per tank of gas. It will also depend on what type of wood your cutting. Sappy ole pine is the worst for loosening the chain. I use it probably 3-4 times a year. More if we get a hurricane. I've pretty much cut all the neighbors un-wanted trees down, so it's sees less and less use. That and I'm getting to old to get my @ss up the tree to top them out. :D Oh yeah, if I did a lot more cutting, I'd get a husqvarna. Best saw out there for the professional IMO. :cheers:

You Sir are a Google God. :bowdown: J/K :D Not a lot of difference though. :cheers:

You Sir are a Google God. :bowdown: J/K :D Not a lot of difference though. :cheers:

:agree: If it is in nice of shape as you say, buy the whole thing. :thumbsup:

:agree: If it is in nice of shape as you say, buy the whole thing. :thumbsup: